what's up peeps, its been a long time that I've been reading a lot of your topics here. I just got a 1993 civic hatch last saturday, and Im just wondering if you guys can tell me what should I do first ( maintenance). the car has a 106miles and it runs good but the question is the engine sounds like a small trauck. engine bay is clean transmision is good but it sounds bad. can you guys tell me what to do? thanks.

 

1. Change the oil and oil filter, and check the air filter.

2. Probably wouldnt hurt to change the oil in the tranny, because it was probably never done before.

3. Timing belt and water pump, if it wasnt done by the previous owner

4. As to the sound, if you are talking about the exhaust makes it sould like a truck, it is probably an exhaust leak.

Any mods to this car, or is it stock?

 

106k i assume.

valve adjustment
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
water pump
coolant flush
p/s belt
a/c belt
alt belt
oil pan gasket along with all the other rubber gaskets like valve cover
brake master cylinder
clutch master cylinder and slave cyl
brake lines
brake calipers/wheel cylinders
brake rotors
brake pads
brake fluid
wheel bearings
front lower ball joint
replace all worn suspension bushings, including the rear trailing arm
motor mounts check
inner and outter tie rods
alignment
fuel filter
spark plugs
spark plug wires
cap and rotor
check the condition of your ignition coil
transmission fluid
axle seals check
pcv valve
check conditon of charging system, batt and alt
and the list could go on and on....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">106k i assume.

valve adjustment
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
water pump
coolant flush
p/s belt
a/c belt
alt belt
oil pan gasket along with all the other rubber gaskets like valve cover
brake master cylinder
clutch master cylinder and slave cyl
brake lines
brake calipers/wheel cylinders
brake rotors
brake pads
brake fluid
wheel bearings
front lower ball joint
replace all worn suspension bushings, including the rear trailing arm
motor mounts check
inner and outter tie rods
alignment
fuel filter
spark plugs
spark plug wires
cap and rotor
check the condition of your ignition coil
transmission fluid
axle seals check
pcv valve
check conditon of charging system, batt and alt
and the list could go on and on....</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">106k i assume.

valve adjustment
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
water pump
coolant flush
p/s belt
a/c belt
alt belt
oil pan gasket along with all the other rubber gaskets like valve cover
brake master cylinder
clutch master cylinder and slave cyl
brake lines
brake calipers/wheel cylinders
brake rotors
brake pads
brake fluid
wheel bearings
front lower ball joint
replace all worn suspension bushings, including the rear trailing arm
motor mounts check
inner and outter tie rods
alignment
fuel filter
spark plugs
spark plug wires
cap and rotor
check the condition of your ignition coil
transmission fluid
axle seals check
pcv valve
check conditon of charging system, batt and alt
and the list could go on and on....</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****, I dont think he needs all that. Maybe if there is something wrong then he could check that, but dang. lol, dont scare the kid!

 

I got the car all in stock from the first owner. how much it will cost me to do all of these? thanks guys.

 

to do all the things in that long *** list would cost a pretty penny, but if you just do the regular maintenace stuff, then you will be fine. Oil, filters, plugs and wires if needed, and check the brakes. Also the timing belt/water pump, if not done by the first owner. All this would cost around $300 bucks I suppose, if you had a shop do it all. If you did it yourself, you could save money, brakes and oil are cheap, the costly thing would be the timing belt and pump

 

thanks dude. I might bring the car to the shop. thanks.

 

im only like 30 min from you, willing to help for free whatver you need. well...maybe some beer in payment. lol

 

that will be great bro. maybe sometimes if you have time and if your around LA you can check my car and tell me what's wrong with it.

 

Just do a engine swap and throw a turbo in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">106k i assume.

valve adjustment
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
water pump
coolant flush
p/s belt
a/c belt
alt belt
oil pan gasket along with all the other rubber gaskets like valve cover
brake master cylinder
clutch master cylinder and slave cyl
brake lines
brake calipers/wheel cylinders
brake rotors
brake pads
brake fluid
wheel bearings
front lower ball joint
replace all worn suspension bushings, including the rear trailing arm
motor mounts check
inner and outter tie rods
alignment
fuel filter
spark plugs
spark plug wires
cap and rotor
check the condition of your ignition coil
transmission fluid
axle seals check
pcv valve
check conditon of charging system, batt and alt
and the list could go on and on....</TD></TR></TABLE>

What the ****?

Did you just start naming parts?

100K maintenance the only things you should have to worry about are the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump (if they weren't changed at 90k like they should have been), maybe a valve lash adjustment but it's not completely neccessary, air filter, oil filter (which is usually done with your oil chnage), and plugs/wires/rotar & cap.

Not a whole lot actually, major **** like the timing belt should have been done at 90k.

As for the sound, if you have a digital camera a digital movie clip of the sound would be nice. My friend has an S-10 which I believe qualifies as a "small truck" and it sounds like a Honda at idle...so what are you really saying? A small diesel truck? Explain it better or record a sound clip of it.

 

If you plan on doing a swap and time SOON then honestly I would put as little as possible into that stock engine.

Keep in mind that depending on what stock engine you have you'd only get about $100.00 (CX engine) to $500.00 (Ex/Si engine) for the whole swap if you try and sell it off once you get a swap. You'll spend more than even $500.00 if you try and update every maintance item needed on that 106K SOHC engine, unless of course the previous owner did the belts/waterpump and major service at 90,000 miles like it should have been done.

I work at a shop that only works on hondas and 9 times out of 10 when someone says "my car sounds like a truck" it's usually an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold.

Sometimes noisy valves make them sound "truckish" too.

 

if your going to do a swap then just get it to where it runs for a little bit then get the new motor and probally a new clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the ****?

Did you just start naming parts?

100K maintenance the only things you should have to worry about are the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump (if they weren't changed at 90k like they should have been), maybe a valve lash adjustment but it's not completely neccessary, air filter, oil filter (which is usually done with your oil chnage), and plugs/wires/rotar & cap.

Not a whole lot actually, major **** like the timing belt should have been done at 90k.

As for the sound, if you have a digital camera a digital movie clip of the sound would be nice. My friend has an S-10 which I believe qualifies as a "small truck" and it sounds like a Honda at idle...so what are you really saying? A small diesel truck? Explain it better or record a sound clip of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No i did not just start naming parts. There are other things on the chassis that wear from normal use and need checking besides the 'standard 100k' stuff. I didn't mean for it to sound like your should replace all those things listed, but certainly with a chassis with over 100k miles those are things you want to at least check. Most if not all of those things i have checked and am in the process of replacing or already have replaced on my 94 civic coupe, 133k on the chassis, 20k on the oe rebuilt motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No i did not just start naming parts. There are other things on the chassis that wear from normal use and need checking besides the 'standard 100k' stuff. I didn't mean for it to sound like your should replace all those things listed, but certainly with a chassis with over 100k miles those are things you want to at least check. Most if not all of those things i have checked and am in the process of replacing or already have replaced on my 94 civic coupe, 133k on the chassis, 20k on the oe rebuilt motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agreaa with him...especially the balljoints...VERRY crucial to inspect (do not replace if they are still good), service calipers/slide pins, tierod ends, bushings, pads/rotors/shoes/drums, greasing the window mechanisms, locking mechanisms etc etc, inspecting the main relay, hood latch...theese are all things you need to at least inspect and sometimes lube...brake lines can corrode (ask me how i know), bleeders need to be loosened sometimes too, if they are seized, your next brake upgrade can be a hell of a time (again, ask me how i know) etc etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No i did not just start naming parts. There are other things on the chassis that wear from normal use and need checking besides the 'standard 100k' stuff. I didn't mean for it to sound like your should replace all those things listed, but certainly with a chassis with over 100k miles those are things you want to at least check. Most if not all of those things i have checked and am in the process of replacing or already have replaced on my 94 civic coupe, 133k on the chassis, 20k on the oe rebuilt motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I see where you're coming from from the inspection aspect, but like, alignment should be done if you feel it or uneven tire wear, not just b/c u hit 100k...some of that stuff's just "when you feel it" instead of "inspection" which may not reveal anything.

 

I dunno about you, but i cannot tell with the human eye if alignment may be out by a 1/16 of an inch, the only way to know if alignment is out is to check and measure. A car can still track straight and have a centered steering wheel; that doesn't necessarily mean alignment is still within spec.

That's what a 'check/inspection' is for; you're damned if you don't at least check certain things, and good if you do discover something needs to be replaced, either out of preventative maintenence, or common wear and tear/life expectancy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno about you, but i cannot tell with the human eye if alignment may be out by a 1/16 of an inch, the only way to know if alignment is out is to check and measure. A car can still track straight and have a centered steering wheel; that doesn't necessarily mean alignment is still within spec.

That's what a 'check/inspection' is for; you're damned if you don't at least check certain things, and good if you do discover something needs to be replaced, either out of preventative maintenence, or common wear and tear/life expectancy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who cares?

If you're out of alignment spec so little that you can't notice it in the wheel or the wear on the tires...what's it matter? You're paying 60 bucks for a 4 wheel alignment so you can get .002mpg on ur tires that are in spec..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who cares?

If you're out of alignment spec so little that you can't notice it in the wheel or the wear on the tires...what's it matter? You're paying 60 bucks for a 4 wheel alignment so you can get .002mpg on ur tires that are in spec..?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

a 21 yr old like me would cry lol! yeah just take care of the motor for now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LazJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a 21 yr old like me would cry lol! yeah just take care of the motor for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

what do u mean noisy? It could be a number of things try to give us more info. But if you dont want to do a fix-the-problem maintance and want to do it complete and correct, listen to chrisw85