UPDATE: I connected all olf the vaccum hoses correctly on my car by following the h22a diagram, only thing is that i did not connect the TPS sensor, because it went under the intake manifold and it was too hard so i just re-directed it back to the IM....now my car does not backfire and shut off, but the idle does surge from 1k to 2k after getting warmeed-up and even when im driving and come to a stop, it will still do this....could the TPS being connected wrong be the culprit?


i fixed the idle on my car it idles pretty good...i thiunk it is running too rich tho

how can I not make it run rich? I bought a fuel pressure regulator because I heard that helps but how?

well, wenever i rev it past 3K RPM and im driving, the car starts to make backfires and when i come to a complete stop, it shuts off!!!

any ideas?



Modified by dek1mfk at 12:07 PM 11/14/2006

 

how do you now if it is running rich and have you done any preventive maintance latley

 

I just finished swapping the motor on sunday....before putting the motor in, i changed the seals and stuff on the block....however, i have not changed the distributor cap, ignition rotor, or pcv valve and fuel filter...i will go buy them this weekend tho

also, i should note that my o2 sensor is not working

 

sounds like true limp mode to me. Do you have a Check Engine Light?

 

yes i do have a check engine light on....i should also note that my VTEC is not wired up, but i dont have a knock sensor

 

it wont run right until you wire things up and get rid of the chekc engine lights...

fix what you KNOW is worng first before looking for new problems.

 

im gonna change the spark plugs on my car....i think the idiot an autozone gave the me the prelude 2.2L SINGLE CAM engine ones...lol....get in the zone, autozone!

im also changing the fuel filter, pcv valve which was dirty as hell, and spark plug wires, and will try to add a fuel pressure regulator to really see at what psi my fuel is pumping at...i will update you guys, with tha results

 

you have far to go
FINISH the swap first buck-o

you have waay to many check engine variables to accurately diagnose the problem
fix them, then the problem will reveal itself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P13_mein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have far to go
FINISH the swap first buck-o

you have waay to many check engine variables to accurately diagnose the problem
fix them, then the problem will reveal itself</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is true....the car has only had the swap for about 4 days, and i havent even ran it cause of da problems and i work on it part-time cause im in college and all...also, i think i have a bout 10 check engine codes..lol...i just dont know how to read them

 

UPDATE: I changed the BOSCH spark plugs and replaced them with some real ones, NGK..what i noticed that 2 of the spark plugs had oil and gas mixed in with them at the bottom of the spark plug...the other two were dried, but all of them were black on da bottom....this is bad because i had put those spark plugs about 3 days ago...car is running way to rich

but whats up with the oil and fuel mixture?

 

I would fix that O2 sensor before anything else, that thing is problably screwing up 5 other things.

 

i know, but do you think it could affect the oil mixed in with gas?

 

its prob not oil... if it is you have alot of work to do.

 

Ok let's note some things. I told you I would IM you but I've been dealing with a mechanic's mistake on my swap.

I had a JDM H22 swapped last week as you remember. I had the same hesistation idle problem. Of course spark plugs and wires were changed and whatnot. The guy i got the intake mani from put a blockoff plate on the EGR. When you do this you must adjust fuel mixture. I just took the blockoff plate off...you dont have one on yours do you?

In your case you need to get all your sensors correct. O2...Knock Sensor...all that or the **** is not going to run correctly at all. You can go without VTEC...it wouldn't affect anything around the 3k region but would be nice if you had that.

When i begun to have the issue with idle AFTER i fixed it i found out that my balancer belt tensioner wasnt screwed in and jumped timing on that belt...effectively making it run like ****. When i checked the plugs there was oil and whatnot on my cylinder 4 plug.

In summary...get your wiring correct...sensors...all that. Then check your timing also.

 

do i have to get an o2 sensor for h23 if i am using my factory wiring harness?

also, could you tell me where there would be an EGR blockoff plate?

 

In the EGR valve... I'm pretty sure yours doesnt have one though, unless the person who had it before you, raced it.

 

yeah i didnt think so either...the motor looked pretty stock to me...anyone have any ideas about what o2 sensor to use?

 

for anyone who can help me out some more

 

fix your known issues. Go from there. There's too many variables with the electrical system to go guessing what the problem is when you know there are already problems that you know need to be fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dek1mfk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i didnt think so either...the motor looked pretty stock to me...anyone have any ideas about what o2 sensor to use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're using the h23 harness, get an h23 o2 sensor 93 prelude si.

It will work with the p13 ecu or the p14, hopefully you're using a p13 though.

 

could i just get a universal o2 sensor and plug it into my h23 harness?

 

UPDATE: Well today I had some time off so I did some messing around with the Lude....I changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and PCV Valve, all of which needed to be changed....

The one weird thing that I noticed was that when I ran my car for a couple of minutes with the p14 Non-VTEC ECU, the car ran fine and picked up speed with very little hessitation....however the idle did surge up and down rather fast....please not that I have still not correctly wired my vaccum lines.....

HOWEVER....when i put in the p13 VTEC ECU, the car idle better than with the p14 ECU, but it backfired on me badly and there was more hesitation when I ran the car...could this be a case of a bad ECU???....and could I just run my p14 ECU for the mean time, since my VTEC is not wired anyways???

 

to the top!

 

for my new update...let me know honda-tech guru's