I have a built and boosted h22, I have been reading that hondata has alot of advantages over vafc when a turbo is thrown in the mix. I havent found any details as to why, does anyone have any input??

 

Don't know that much about tuning but i'm just gonna throw it out there that using a VAFC to tune a turbo car is probaly the worst thing you can do. Invest in hondata my friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ewok_poacher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a built and boosted h22, I have been reading that hondata has alot of advantages over vafc when a turbo is thrown in the mix. I havent found any details as to why, does anyone have any input?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

u need more then just an VAFC to run boost anyways, Also if ur map sensor reads boost on a stock ecu its gonna go nuts and throw a check engine light run light shyt . I swear I just said this yesterday anyways there u go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know that much about tuning but i'm just gonna throw it out there that using a VAFC to tune a turbo car is probaly the worst thing you can do. Invest in hondata my friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is the second worst thing to do a fmu and missing link is all bad go with hondata or crome or anything else

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that is the second worst thing to do a fmu and missing link is all bad go with hondata or crome or anything else</TD></TR></TABLE>

eh I wouldnt exactly agree with that. I have seen fmu cars go in the 11's and I know of one that has been around for 2 years thats in the 11's, If done right it can work. Is it the best way to tune no defiantly not, but..... it can work yes

 

vafc cannot independently adjust timing. Ignition adjustments are only an effect of And tuning timing is what makes a boosted motor reliable and powerful assuming that the motor was put together correctly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PGMFI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.

Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)

But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know that much about tuning but i'm just gonna throw it out there that using a VAFC to tune a turbo car is probaly the worst thing you can do. Invest in hondata my friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont know much about tuning, yet you're going to throw it out there that using the vafc is the worst thing he can do? i wouldnt say its the best thing to do, but with a good tuner you can make the vafc work if thats all you have to work with. vafc will at least you allow to make some type of adjustments. so some capability to make adjustments is better than none

 

yeah im running a vafc2 with my setup its being worked on now
EGR valve is the only problem im running into i got RC 440cc too as well as missing link
for only 6 psi VAFC will work
maybe up to 8psi dont quote me on that anything more and yes you shold invest in hondata
i will upgrade later on but a VAFC will do the trick and can be reliable for low boost

 

I ditched my vafc and got Hondata S200. Hope that implies something.

 

so you spend all this money to build your motor and boost it yet you feel like cheeping out on the most important part to keep that investment running for a long time?

Blake already explained it, basically V-AFC adjust fuel and timing inversely and dependantly, you lower one the other goes up. Not good for a boosted motor

If you have a built motor your probably going to be running more then 10psi, the VAFC hack will destory an engine at those levels let alone the increably over sized injectors your going to need to even make the "hack" work.

By the time you make a VAFC hack reliable to the point where you shouldn't be worrying every 5 seconds you driving the car, a hondata S300 is like 100 bucks more and a much better fuel solution.

I never understood why people think fuel and timing is the place to save money on a turbo build, it no way in any shape or form makes any sense logically

 

yeah at 10 one should be going for a standalone
low boost you can get away with a vafc or fmu or etc

 

I'd have to vote for dropping the VAFC. Definitely go standalone.