ok, so my problem is when i release the clutch slowly sometimes, it makes this horrible whining niose, i did some searching and figured it was the throw out bearing. this problem started in the beginning of summer and it happens on and off but more so recently, the car is stored for winter now so i dont have to worry about it for a few months.

my question is, what happens if i dont fix this problem? it just happens on and off and i dont want to spend a ton of money fixing it if nothing too bad is gonna happen.

 

It's no big deal, just annoying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94preludeguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's no big deal, just annoying.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what the f uck? Why would you tell him this and make a thread of your own two minuites later about the same thing.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1806473

 

Because my question is different than his..

His happens on and off, mine is constantly and it does something else, not the same as his does. Also he's asking what would happen if he lets it be, I was asking if there was a temp. solution to fix my problem.

Seperate problems man, get off my nuts.

 

whatever, can anyone else confirm this.

 

anyone?

 

hmm.. i have a different problem. mine's make whining noise when i depress the clutch pedal. i think my TB is bad or maybe a spring on my clutch disc came off because i have problems getting into all gears now. i thought it was only 3rd, now its all of them.

 

FIX IT, the TOB could easily sieze up and cut into the fingers of the pressure plate and then your out a whole clutch kit.

 

o geez, are you serious, well if i do that i know its gonna be a big job. anything else i should get at while im in there?

 

Duane is correct...

Maybe not the news you wanted to hear, but letting a bad bearing just get worse is not a good game plan.

I will say, that this is a case of one of those maintenence items that you get the "might as well" change other items.

You'll want to budget to change the clutch disk/pressure plate (just purchase the whole kit...items are cheaper that way).

Also, you should get the flywheel resurfaced...that way this repair will last you quite a long time (assuming that you are not too harsh on clutches). If you do the work yourself...$200 - $300 for everything (depends on what kit ou buy and how much the machine shop charges for the flywheel).

Cheers!

 

There is a little stud with a rounded head that the release fork rides on or pivots on, replace this item also, I have had to do several of them, its not your typical clutch repair item but they do break, lube it with some grease also, not too much.

 

For future reference, the main thing that causes the TOB to crap out is improper adjustment of the clutch pedal.

If there is no play on top of the pedal, the slave cylinder is putting pressure on the fork, and then onto the TOB. The constant pressure kills the bearing, and yes, when it goes bad, it needs to be replaced.

On a side note, I would like to know if anyone else has figured out what that is in Duane's avatar....took me a minute....

 

AVATAR, damn, I could not remember what that damn thing was called for the life of me.

HINT, I am a technician, I carry several of these things in my glove box all summer long, I see a broke car, diagnose it based on the symptom and change that part, it takes less than a few minutes and I get $100 for my training (knowledge) and the part.

 

Haha I had always just glanced at it quick and thought it was some sort of HVAC machine with a big duct on the side....lol

 

Hey minejust started doing the same thing, but now my tranny makes a knocking sound only when the pedal is not depressed, is this due to the throughout bearing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For future reference, the main thing that causes the TOB to crap out is improper adjustment of the clutch pedal.

If there is no play on top of the pedal, the slave cylinder is putting pressure on the fork, and then onto the TOB. The constant pressure kills the bearing, and yes, when it goes bad, it needs to be replaced.
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Sorry to bring this back up, but I was thinking about it today at work and there is a spring inside the slave cylinder that keeps pressure on the clutch fork. There's no way to avoid that pressure...could the pedal adjustment add on to that pressure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On a side note, I would like to know if anyone else has figured out what that is in Duane's avatar....took me a minute....</TD></TR></TABLE>


Main Relay those things f-up everything haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry to bring this back up, but I was thinking about it today at work and there is a spring inside the slave cylinder that keeps pressure on the clutch fork. There's no way to avoid that pressure...could the pedal adjustment add on to that pressure?

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I'm not really sure what the purpose of that spring is....because in every situation I can imagine, the hydraulics take care of putting pressure on the piston in there

Basically I figured out that my adjustment was way off....the master cylinder I have needs to be replaced....and with the added variable of the hondata clutch switch in there, keeping the clutch adjusted right has been a task....but for a while I had too little play, basically none, and there was pressure being applied to the fork at all times....thats why my bearing was going out....

My dad suggested, as was done on earlier cars says he, that I put springs from the clutch fork back toward the slave cylinder to pull it back in some....as long as they're not too strong they shouldn't influence the pedal feel too much...

I doubt I'm going to do that though...I'll probably just wait until I get the full stainless line in and adjust it then and see how it comes out....

 

Yeah, when I put my SS line in I had to space out the MC a little bit and the pedal engages right before it hits the stop on the firewall...there's only a tiny bit of play in there and I definately don't want to kill my TOB.

 

Depends on how bad it is. It should be replaced when you get a new clutch so if you're in need of a clutch the problem will be fixed

 

The spring is only there to keep bumps in the road from allowing the fork to push back on the slave cylinder piston and push it all the way back into the slave cylinder, this would require more distance to apply the next clutch application. The small amount of spring tension keeps the piston in the "READY" to work position.

It is posible to adjust the pedal linkage (at the pedal), not recommended if original parts were used. Is the fork on its pivot point or is it broken (ball head stud).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The spring is only there to keep bumps in the road from allowing the fork to push back on the slave cylinder piston and push it all the way back into the slave cylinder, this would require more distance to apply the next clutch application. The small amount of spring tension keeps the piston in the "READY" to work position.
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Ok, that's kinda what I figured. Thanks