car still runs LEAN...i expletive ing hate this car
ive been screwing with this car for a month now and it still runs the same. its a 99 gsr integra and it runs like poo poo.... my best guess is that its running lean due to the lack of fuel pressure and the primary O2 sensor is as white as casper the ghost. fuel pressure at idle is 28 psi and jumps to 40 with the vacuum line off. sum1 had suggested replacing the fuel pressure regulator which i did (oem honda) and the pressure is still the same. i also replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and checked the timing. im also pretty damn sure its not the pump.
WHAT CAN IT BE!!
im not sure if this matters but i recently change out all the valves b/c i bent a few but my compression test read 230 across the board....whats the problem here...sum1 help!!!
WHAT CAN IT BE!!
im not sure if this matters but i recently change out all the valves b/c i bent a few but my compression test read 230 across the board....whats the problem here...sum1 help!!!
oh i also forgot that it bogs down during acceleration between 2500RPM til 3000 and the only way to pull through the bogging is to stomp on the gas...the car will buck and rev up like normal...fuel starvation? im completely lost...btw the car is BONE stock except for short ram and greddy evo2
Unless your gauge is off, you either have the wrong fuel pressure regulator, or a pump issue. The B18C1 engine runs a 57 psi base pressure if I remember correctly, and it should be that pressure with the vacuum line off. Check the Helms to verify my thoughts..
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valves were bent because of a misshift
...for the people who think its my fuel pump i hav a walbro 255hp sitting in my room...anyone against me throwing that in? and as for the fuel pressure reg its brand NEW OEM HONDA...if the gauge is wrong why is my O2 sensor tip glowing white? i can rule out a vacuum leak because theres no idle surging what so ever...my best guess is that because im not getting stock fuel pressure there is just and over abundance of air which is giving me my lean condition... and btw i have NO C.E.L. what so ever
...for the people who think its my fuel pump i hav a walbro 255hp sitting in my room...anyone against me throwing that in? and as for the fuel pressure reg its brand NEW OEM HONDA...if the gauge is wrong why is my O2 sensor tip glowing white? i can rule out a vacuum leak because theres no idle surging what so ever...my best guess is that because im not getting stock fuel pressure there is just and over abundance of air which is giving me my lean condition... and btw i have NO C.E.L. what so ever
I read through your 3 posts about the same thing:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1787846
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1778954
and this one.
From what you're saying, you replaced some valves and after you put the engine back together you've been having this problem with bogging and lack of power. I would recommend double checking your valve adjustment.
If the adjustments were made when the engine was above 100 degrees F, the valve clearances aren't going to be correct when your engine warms up. Tight valves will affect low end performance.
These specs are for a bone cold engine. If you adjust your engine when it is warm(even barely below 100 degrees F), set it to the maximum spec to make up for heat expansion.
Intake: 0.15 - 0.19 mm (0.006 - 0.007 in)
Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.21 mm (0.007 - 0.008 in)
(And your fuel pressure with the fpr vacuum hose disconnected should be 48-55psi)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1787846
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1778954
and this one.
From what you're saying, you replaced some valves and after you put the engine back together you've been having this problem with bogging and lack of power. I would recommend double checking your valve adjustment.
If the adjustments were made when the engine was above 100 degrees F, the valve clearances aren't going to be correct when your engine warms up. Tight valves will affect low end performance.
These specs are for a bone cold engine. If you adjust your engine when it is warm(even barely below 100 degrees F), set it to the maximum spec to make up for heat expansion.
Intake: 0.15 - 0.19 mm (0.006 - 0.007 in)
Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.21 mm (0.007 - 0.008 in)
(And your fuel pressure with the fpr vacuum hose disconnected should be 48-55psi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ffHeart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(And your fuel pressure with the fpr vacuum hose disconnected should be 48-55psi)</TD></TR></TABLE>disconected, but disconected and pinched off. make sure of that.
(And your fuel pressure with the fpr vacuum hose disconnected should be 48-55psi)</TD></TR></TABLE>disconected, but disconected and pinched off. make sure of that.
Check and replace the fuel filter and see if that helps anything. Also, buy some fuel injector cleaner and use it at the next fill-up and see if that helps. If those don't work, then check the thermostat or the throttle position sensor. Hotter coolant temps usually cause the engine to run lean, and if the throttle position sensor is stuck "open", that will also cause the car to run lean. You said you had a short ram-air intake...That increased airflow may also be the culprit. On some cars, you have to reset the ECU after adding a performance intake and/or exhaust kit so the ECU would correctly compensate for the increased airflow. I think the normal air-fuel ratio is 14.9:1 (14.9 parts air to 1 part fuel is stoich (normal) mix, rich mixes usually automatically and normally occur when the engine is cold and when you start the engine)
**posting to help him get answers**
his short ram and exhaust have been on since he bought the car no problem with them b4
the ecu has been reset multiple times obviously
engine temp according to the stock gauges is running normal ...it doesnt get hot
he has checked his valve clearances... i do not remember if it was hot or cold tho so he will have to chime in on that
his short ram and exhaust have been on since he bought the car no problem with them b4
the ecu has been reset multiple times obviously
engine temp according to the stock gauges is running normal ...it doesnt get hot
he has checked his valve clearances... i do not remember if it was hot or cold tho so he will have to chime in on that
He said the car bucks under wot which is a sign of lack of fuel. Change the pump, you have one already, it doesn't take that long.
my crx bucked, but the cel was throwing a fuel code. turned out it was the o2 sensor. it was bad causing the ecu to change the fuel settings then it would throw the code.
might want to check it out
other then the cel it sounds just like what my problem was. the only reason i found out what it was is cause it happend with my hf motor then when i swapped in a zc it still did it. it pissed me off for a few months then i bought a header and a new o2 sensor. HOT DAMN no more problem.
good luck with yours
might want to check it out
other then the cel it sounds just like what my problem was. the only reason i found out what it was is cause it happend with my hf motor then when i swapped in a zc it still did it. it pissed me off for a few months then i bought a header and a new o2 sensor. HOT DAMN no more problem.
good luck with yours
valves were adjusted with a cold motor. im going to check the tps. engine temps are normal. today though i noticed my fuel lines running from my tank are quite rusted im suspecting there is a colapse somewhere. but whatever im going to replace the lines and see what happens and keep hunting from there. i would guess iftheres an obstruction in the lines putting hte 255 wouldnt solve the problem becuase all its doing is throwing more fuel pressure. id like to see everything running okay with my stock setup. ill throw the 255 in once the turbo setup is bolted up. so yeah off to the dealer to grab the hard lines. from there...who knows. i appreciate all the help from you guys
not to double check you but if you took off the head to fix the valves make sure the timing belt is on time b/c mine messed up one time and it ran like that intake cam was opening to soon and was allowing to much air in the motor
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