I know nothing about hondas so bare with me. we pulled up and parked 30 mins later we went to leave and it wont start. I figured fuel pump but yall said they dont go out to often on these cars. so whats the symtoms of the main relay or the ignitor or coil goin bad. i took the blak cap piece to get it tested and it tested ok what else could it be but the fuel pump any help will be greatly appreciated btw it has 135 miles on it

 

go to this site:

http://autorepair.about.com/cs...9.htm

http://www.marklamond.co.uk/te...y.htm

 

Check the spark, Take a spark plug out of the tube, stick a screwdriver in the end, hold the screwdriver like 1/16 away from the valve cover bolt and have somone crank the car over, and if u see no spark going between the screwdriver and bolt then its your distributor.. get a new one

Dont listen to anyone elses bullshit,

ive worked on plenty of accords and from 90,91,92 every time someones car wont start 97% of time time its the distributor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ive worked on plenty of accords and from 90,91,92 every time someones car wont start 97% of time time its the distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>

I call bs. alot of times its the main relay. But the main relay is easy to check.

To check the main relay turn the ignition to on with out starting it. the check engine light should go on for a sec and then turn off. If it doesn't turn off or it doesn't go on at all its almost always your main relay.

if it goes on and stay on I know it sounds crazy but hit or kick the dash down by your left knee. and if the light goes out the car will start.

 

i thank yall for all the help im out of town but when i get back ill figuure it out and give yall an update

 

did you check to see if a fuse was blown, mine wouldnt start and it was the 50 fuse in the box under the hood.

what specifically do you mean wont start, doesit make a noise, not respond to the key turn? will the lights go on?

please be specific

if it does have power, hold your key in the on position for 15 seconds before following through on the ignition turn, this sort of primes your fuel pump in the case its sort of flooded from you trying to start it and hitting the gas over and over.

and about the distributor, it is a problem with 4th gens but it prob would have gone out while you were driving, it happened to me and it sucked, also get a paperclip and get your car to throw a code if you cant diagnose it


Modified by KillerElfboy at 9:55 PM 11/3/2006

 

if car cranks ( engine turns ) but won't start, you need to diagnose if it is lack of spark or lack of fuel..
when car does not start, remove the air intake tube going to throttle body, open the throttle blade by hand, spray some carb cleaner in throttle body while someone starts the car, if it starts, it is lack of fuel most likely a main relay issue ,, if it still does not start ,,you need to chk for spark with the screwdriver like it was adviced earlier BUT if there is no spark DO NOT replace the distributor like he said,, you need to DIAGNOSE if it is a bad ignitor or a bad coil,each cost about 90 dollars no need to replace the complete distributor ,, waste of money ,,,,,
also if you get no spark , remove the oil filler cap, have someone crank the engine and make sure that the rocker arms move up and down ,, if no movement you got timing belt issues

 

well i checked the fuel pump and the fuel pump came on and then I checked the timing belt buy looking in the oil spout and seen things moving. I checked fire and no fire well the coil thing was tested it was ok and the auto parts guy said it was the ing module or firing modual does that sound right its like a little piece that sits at the bottom of the distributor tell me what yall think

 

Sounds to me like you have an electronic distributor with the coil built in. That's what I have in my car. If that's the case, the way to test it is by testing the primary positive and negative terminals, indicated by a black/yellow wire for positive and a blue/white wire for negative. You need an ohmmeter for this..Normal resistance should read 0.6 to 0.8 ohms for those two terminals. Then test the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. The secondary terminal is that tall, narrow, cone-shaped terminal on one side of the coil. Normal resistance is 12,800 to 19,200 ohms. All test conditions must be met. If the test conditions are not met, the coil needs to be replaced. Info is on page 2-9 (chapter 2, page 9) of the Chilton Accord/Prelude 1984-95 repair manual, bottom right side of the page.

 

ok now i replaced the firing modual thing and still no fire i called a mechanic and he said crank position senor could stop it from firing what do yall think any help is greatly appreciated

 

anyone got any ideas

 

did you do what I said to check the main relay?

 

the fuel pump comes on and theres no fire. would the main relay cause no fire or are you talking about the main ign relay?: the check engine light comes on for bout a sec then goes off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hardtopz28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fuel pump comes on and theres no fire. would the main relay cause no fire or are you talking about the main ign relay?: the check engine light comes on for bout a sec then goes off
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda-Master advised "if car cranks ( engine turns ) but won't start, you need to diagnose if it is lack of spark or lack of fuel..
when car does not start, remove the air intake tube going to throttle body, open the throttle blade by hand, spray some carb cleaner in throttle body while someone starts the car, if it starts, it is lack of fuel most likely a main relay issue ,, if it still does not start ,,you need to chk for spark with the screwdriver like it was adviced earlier BUT if there is no spark DO NOT replace the distributor like he said,, you need to DIAGNOSE if it is a bad ignitor or a bad coil,each cost about 90 dollars no need to replace the complete distributor ,, waste of money ,,,,,
also if you get no spark , remove the oil filler cap, have someone crank the engine and make sure that the rocker arms move up and down ,, if no movement you got timing belt issues "

If you get no fire (I hope you mean spark) then replace your coil/igniter.

 

ok it has no spark i changed the ignitor if the lil card looking thing is the ignitor i changed it. would the coil cause it to sometime start and sometimes not?

 

check that ground on the starter, i had the same problem when i removed my distributor. there is a small cable that come off easy.

 

could the the pick up coil be the problem cause i dunno what to do now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hardtopz28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok it has no spark i changed the ignitor if the lil card looking thing is the ignitor i changed it. would the coil cause it to sometime start and sometimes not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. As a coil begins to fail, it sometimes goes out intermittently first. "lil card looking thing"??? Did you check any parts diagram in a manual to see what it was?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hardtopz28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> could the the pick up coil be the problem cause i dunno what to do now </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you check the ignition coil? "Pick up coil"??? Check a manual or ask someone to show you what the ignition coil is. Different models have them in different places and they have different shapes.

Good luck.

 

The Black/yellow wire at the coil should have power when the key is turned 'on' or in 'crank'. If the ignition switch isn't putting thru power you can change parts all day long with no results.

 

if that wire isnt getting power what would that be. Whats the sign of the pick up coil if its bad. Man I appreciate yall helping me with this if it was a z28 it would be running but I have no clue about a honda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hardtopz28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if that wire isnt getting power what would that be. Whats the sign of the pick up coil if its bad. Man I appreciate yall helping me with this if it was a z28 it would be running but I have no clue about a honda</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same deal. A coil is a coil, is a coil in any car, z28 or Honda. If the coil is bad, it won't put out any spark voltage to the spark plugs.