block balancing
are you talking about balancing your rotating asembly? as in the pistons, rod, crank, fly wheel. ????
If your just going to keep it stock spec then you should be fine. but if you're going to rev your car past the stock Redline. Then i would suggest you have the whole rotating assembly balance. and its not all that expensive.
If your just going to keep it stock spec then you should be fine. but if you're going to rev your car past the stock Redline. Then i would suggest you have the whole rotating assembly balance. and its not all that expensive.
What pistons and rods are you using? CP pistons are extremely accurate. Some people say theres no need for balancing a turbo engine, as you probably won't need to exceed stock redline. I had mine balanced for $145.00. It was almost a waste.
Ill find the link.....
Ill find the link.....
ughh... i don't want to start this issue, but....
Did you have your crankshaft machined? Or is it still in its original form?
There is no need to balance, unless you plan on increasing redline above stock. Its always an added bonus, but neither Endyn or Evans Tunning balance there turbo motors. Eagle Rods & CP pistons is what i'm running. I had mine balanced, but it was pointless.
Did you have your crankshaft machined? Or is it still in its original form?
There is no need to balance, unless you plan on increasing redline above stock. Its always an added bonus, but neither Endyn or Evans Tunning balance there turbo motors. Eagle Rods & CP pistons is what i'm running. I had mine balanced, but it was pointless.
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like i said earlier. I think you'll be fine without balancing then.
I just fully built my block. I had the crank chamfered, mircro polished and the whole rotating assembly balanced. I'm using Arias Pison and Eagle H-Beams. So We'll see if that makes a difference. This is my first time running with a balanced rotating assembly. But i'm going to be reving to 9k maybe a little more.
I just fully built my block. I had the crank chamfered, mircro polished and the whole rotating assembly balanced. I'm using Arias Pison and Eagle H-Beams. So We'll see if that makes a difference. This is my first time running with a balanced rotating assembly. But i'm going to be reving to 9k maybe a little more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogsr18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock crank</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then go with OEM bearings, as per the stamp on your block and crank.
After market bearings should only be used on a re-surfaced crank, IMO. The precise oil clearances that honda calls for are easier to achieve that way. After market bearings are only available in one size. OEM honda chooses an array of 8 different sizes to precisely balance the oil clearance to every journal. Go with OEM.
Then go with OEM bearings, as per the stamp on your block and crank.
After market bearings should only be used on a re-surfaced crank, IMO. The precise oil clearances that honda calls for are easier to achieve that way. After market bearings are only available in one size. OEM honda chooses an array of 8 different sizes to precisely balance the oil clearance to every journal. Go with OEM.
Having your rotating assembly balanced definately won't hurt, but it's not always necessary as others have said. As stated, if you're planning on revving past stock redline it's probably a good idea. Or if you're building a race motor that needs maximum reliability, then it's a good idea also. I would never call balancing a "waste of money", but there's definately situations that need it more than others. If you're building a hight perfomance street motor that will rarely see very high RPM's, then you shouldn't need it.
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