Accord EX's have a measly 8.8:1 compression ratio in stock trim.
Technically... they can withstand quite a bit more without trouble.

A friend of mine said I could run 20 degrees advance no problem... which should make a nice difference in the low range.

BTW: I run 93 octane all day and sometimes an additive.

(the ECU automatically advances the timing fully at high RPM, up to like 45 or so)

What do you peeps think ?

 

Really?

 

take off your distributor, and mount it 90 degrees clockwise. wear safety goggles.

 

yeah really... that's why when SOHCAccord said that retarding the ignition timing was good for top end I had to butt in.

Retarding the ignition timing in fact does NOT give you any gains at all (not even in the top end). All you do is lose low end torque because it takes that much longer to ignite the mixture.

However, advance too much with shitty gas and you'll do more hurt than good.

 

hehehehehehe

 

He was talking about cam timing

 

So your saying retarding is pointless and advancing is the only way to go?

 

Unless you are boosting/nitroused, yes.

 

Can you back this up?

 

can you buy me a plane ticket so i can fly over there to kick your *** in person?

 

yep.

 

no he wasn't

 

hahahahah

good one

 

speaking of cam gears. how do you get that horrible black cover off? i tried taking the bolts off.. no dice, i think im going to just cut it off with me dremmel tool mate

 

i was talking about both

go ahead i had my ignition advanced all the way, then tell me what happens to your top end

but dont take my word for it what does years of experence have anything to say anyway?

 

take the bolts off and LIFT/Pry a lil

 

Well... I trust the dyno more than your experience.

 

i trust the dyno too, advancing the timing up top only helps under boost to keep the EGT's low

cranking the distributor does not give you gains everywhere, you have to learn and see in each rpm interval what exactly will extract the most amounts of torque to tune a flat torque curve, and program the timing table accordingly, and you have to isolate your changes to that one change b/c if you are changing too many things at once you will not know what is doing the power manipulation

 

Listen guys there is a reason why timing is a certain degree in the middle to begin with. Too much advance and you gain a lot of pep down low and lose on your top end.. DYNO PROVEN.. Too much retard and your bottom sux *** but you can have much more room to move top end, plus you save gas..

That is why stock timing is in the middle ground giving you a balance of performance and drivability gas wise..

 

You see Brian, this is why I ask for proof. A dynochart, a technical article, something. Dont be so quick on the trigger of that flamethrower. I'm not always an assclown...just sometimes.

 

Yellow vacuum hoses.

 

Get it straight cocksocket! I dont have yellow vacuum hoses! I have yellow wire covers!

 

Dude... did you not know that your ECU automatically fully advances timing at high RPM's ? It'll advance all the way up to 45 or 50 degrees in increments.

What yer saying makes NO sense. Sorry to burst your bubble.

The reason why you should not advance idle timing past like 20 on most honda's is because the majority run high compression (like 10:1) and you detonate at low rpm's than on a car with low compression (8.8:1) you could safely advance idle timing past 20... like 24 if you run 93 octane.

I'm not going to argue with you on this one any further because I have to keep repeating myself.

If you're so experienced, you should already know something as basic as this.
That's another thing I hate on this board.. lotsa know it all's who don't really know and then argue the point.

very gay.

(not trying to be sarcastic, just fed up, so no offence Sohc)