es mount insert question - does rear insert add MORE vibration?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Quezon city, SFDM, Philippines
i searched, but i'd like to get more opinions. i installed just the two lower torque mount inserts, and there is some increased vibration. would installing the rear mount insert result in even more or less vibration? i'd like to get feedback from people who have actually done this, tnx a lot
yes, yes it would...i installed a front and rear on my crx...it vibrated like crazy, so i took out the rear and it was a lot better...
yep.......... more..... the rear mount is what pushes towards your firewall so if you stiffen the mount the engine movements will be transfered straight to the inside of the car
yea, but remember the rear one is the one that makes the most difference, pointless buying them if you dont use the rear one....
I only put the rear one on and it did make a difference, but hell everything in my car vibrates now. I used the prothan. Damn how do people drive with the full kit.
Yeah it does cause more vibration but only at idle. When I'm on the throttle it feels great.
I have the ES inserts plus the upper Prothane insert. I just need to install the driver side Prothane insert to complete the kit.
I have the ES inserts plus the upper Prothane insert. I just need to install the driver side Prothane insert to complete the kit.
Im pretty sure if you increase your warm idle to around 950rpm it pretty much goes away. Or to a more manageable amount.
If you cant live with a high idle or vibrations, then dont get the mounts
If you cant live with a high idle or vibrations, then dont get the mounts
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Ok.. That's odd. I have the prothane inserts.. I started with using the just lower driver side and the pasenger side inserts..
There were more vibrations, but manageable. Then I put the rear one in. It didn't really make much of a difference as vibrations were concerned. It did stop the annoying knock that I got when braking hard in autoX with sticky tires.
Then I put the driverside prothane upper mount on.. That's when the vibrations went over the top! I didn't even have the racing puck in. The vibrations were like being in a vibrating chair.. It made the steering wheel vibrate so much that I lost the connection with the road. It made the pedals vibrate too and the car was incredibly LOUD at highway speeds 55 - 80 mph. I had to wear earplugs to keep me sane.
I bit the bullet and replaced that driver side mount with an OEM one and things are MUCH better.
There were more vibrations, but manageable. Then I put the rear one in. It didn't really make much of a difference as vibrations were concerned. It did stop the annoying knock that I got when braking hard in autoX with sticky tires.
Then I put the driverside prothane upper mount on.. That's when the vibrations went over the top! I didn't even have the racing puck in. The vibrations were like being in a vibrating chair.. It made the steering wheel vibrate so much that I lost the connection with the road. It made the pedals vibrate too and the car was incredibly LOUD at highway speeds 55 - 80 mph. I had to wear earplugs to keep me sane.
I bit the bullet and replaced that driver side mount with an OEM one and things are MUCH better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have fun installing that rear mount--you gotta be real patient, that's for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, yes, big PITA!!
lol, yes, big PITA!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WickedKP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only put the rear one on and it did make a difference, but hell everything in my car vibrates now. I used the prothan. Damn how do people drive with the full kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The added vibration is a good vibration...not an annoying one. Well, that's how I felt about it. Just made the car that much more R'ish.
The added vibration is a good vibration...not an annoying one. Well, that's how I felt about it. Just made the car that much more R'ish.
you need to replace them all if not its going to be worse
on my friends car we placed just the drivers side cause thats the only one that was damaged, and it was really bad vibrating
i have all 3 hasports and it was that bad compared to him,
on my friends car we placed just the drivers side cause thats the only one that was damaged, and it was really bad vibrating
i have all 3 hasports and it was that bad compared to him,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have fun installing that rear mount--you gotta be real patient, that's for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
does anyone have a write up on installing the rear? i have fronts on already. Considering i have a JRSC, would it get in the way?
does anyone have a write up on installing the rear? i have fronts on already. Considering i have a JRSC, would it get in the way?
Sorry that this isn't much help, but YES, there is an article write up on how to install the rear motor mount. I even printed it out. It had pictures and everything.
I think I found ONE of the writeups I used.. http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm
Yes. This is one of them.
It'll get you going. You DEFINITELY either need a wobble or u-joint attachments. You need a 3/8" really long extention and a 1/2" really long extention. (about two feet worth or more)
Be careful with the angle of the u-joint before you try and torque the nuts off. You will break the u-joint if its at the wrong angle.
Like everyone says. The rear mount is a bitch to remove.
Some people say that you can just loosen the mount and twist it so you can put the inserts in without removing the mount, but I think those people are contorsionists or something.
Edit: Oh.. Forgot to add. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!! You'll need it trying to figure out how to turns some of those bolts because some of the spaces are pretty tight and you can only fit the ratchet but not a full cheater bar. It helps to have two people for this job, but it can be done with one person.
I think I found ONE of the writeups I used.. http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm
Yes. This is one of them.
It'll get you going. You DEFINITELY either need a wobble or u-joint attachments. You need a 3/8" really long extention and a 1/2" really long extention. (about two feet worth or more)
Be careful with the angle of the u-joint before you try and torque the nuts off. You will break the u-joint if its at the wrong angle.
Like everyone says. The rear mount is a bitch to remove.
Some people say that you can just loosen the mount and twist it so you can put the inserts in without removing the mount, but I think those people are contorsionists or something.
Edit: Oh.. Forgot to add. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!! You'll need it trying to figure out how to turns some of those bolts because some of the spaces are pretty tight and you can only fit the ratchet but not a full cheater bar. It helps to have two people for this job, but it can be done with one person.
i just bought my R and it came with hasport mounts.. im not too sure which mounts they are but the guy said he bought the stiffest he could get. To be honest i think they are a little overkill. The vibrating is way too much for me to deal with. Anything and everything vibrates.. just to name a few, the chang i keep in the little compartment to the left/under the steering wheel, the black plastics right behind the steering wheel that covers the ignition, even the keys on my keychain will vibrate.. and something somehow in the hatch area vibrates..lol.. MY question is are the hasport mounts colored to tell which mounts they are? and would i need a whole new kit or just a softer rear mount? I think the previous owner broke a nice header and figured it was the motor having too much movement, but i think a flex pipe would realy help with that problem.. any suggestions??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcash13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just bought my R and it came with hasport mounts.. im not too sure which mounts they are but the guy said he bought the stiffest he could get. To be honest i think they are a little overkill. The vibrating is way too much for me to deal with. Anything and everything vibrates.. just to name a few, the chang i keep in the little compartment to the left/under the steering wheel, the black plastics right behind the steering wheel that covers the ignition, even the keys on my keychain will vibrate.. and something somehow in the hatch area vibrates..lol.. MY question is are the hasport mounts colored to tell which mounts they are? and would i need a whole new kit or just a softer rear mount? I think the previous owner broke a nice header and figured it was the motor having too much movement, but i think a flex pipe would realy help with that problem.. any suggestions??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure there is some in your are that would be willing to trade you for there stock mounts
I'm sure there is some in your are that would be willing to trade you for there stock mounts
take off the intake manifold and it will give ya alot more room to work on the rear mount, thats what i did....at first with the inserts in the mounts, it wouldn't fit between the bracket, so i used like 3 c clams, to push the mount in as far as possible, as long as you can get a little of the mount in bracket, you could just wiggle it until you can bolt down the 3 bolts that mount to frame, then from there was the hardest part, trying to make the bolt go into the thread on the other side, that part you just got to pound the mount with a rubber hammer constantly while using an impact gun or rachet, to spin the bolt until it catch the thread on the other side....
vibration got pretty bad, but my launch i solid now, no more wheel hop, it just takes off now....good luck with it though....
vibration got pretty bad, but my launch i solid now, no more wheel hop, it just takes off now....good luck with it though....
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