Time For Brake Maintenance/Upgrade - Questions!
In about three weeks from now my car will be getting the 45,000 mile service done at Acura. While I’m there I want them to pay special attention to the brakes. I love the ITR brakes. But lately I have noticed a little wobble (via the steering wheel) in the front rotors during moderate to hard breaking (especially when they warm up) so I need to deal with that issue. I think they may be slightly warped? I could have Acura machine the front rotors but since Brembo blanks are relatively cheap at $40 each I’m strongly considering that option. How do the Brembo’s compare to the stock OEM rotors? Are Brembo’s stronger, lighter, or higher quality? Will the stock pads grip them as well as the stock rotors?
The stock pads work great - they don’t make any noise, they don’t produce much break dust, and they last a LONG time. For that reason I’ll probably stick with stock pads. Are there any aftermarket pads that work better and still have the qualities I listed above? I don’t track my car often so intense heat is not a factor.
And now to the topic of braided steel brake lines. Are these a good idea? If they provide improved brake feel and longevity I’ll go with them even if they run an extra $100-150. Anyone have experience with BSBL? Please give me the details regarding your experience if you have. I heard about some ITR owners with BSBL and they said that brake feel was actually worse on the street. Is this true?
If I can get a set of spoon brake calipers for a reasonable price those may be an option. I know they generally come in smurf blue but a while back I saw them anodized in red. I wish that picture was around somewhere. They looked amazing!
I know - lots of questions! Answer what you can. Thanks for your help guys!
The stock pads work great - they don’t make any noise, they don’t produce much break dust, and they last a LONG time. For that reason I’ll probably stick with stock pads. Are there any aftermarket pads that work better and still have the qualities I listed above? I don’t track my car often so intense heat is not a factor.
And now to the topic of braided steel brake lines. Are these a good idea? If they provide improved brake feel and longevity I’ll go with them even if they run an extra $100-150. Anyone have experience with BSBL? Please give me the details regarding your experience if you have. I heard about some ITR owners with BSBL and they said that brake feel was actually worse on the street. Is this true?
If I can get a set of spoon brake calipers for a reasonable price those may be an option. I know they generally come in smurf blue but a while back I saw them anodized in red. I wish that picture was around somewhere. They looked amazing!
I know - lots of questions! Answer what you can. Thanks for your help guys!
Granted I don't have an ITR, but hopefully I'll be able to help you out. I'm not sure about the Brembo Blanks, but I know that everyone does recommend them. For the street, I would recommend Porterfield R4-S pads, which seem to be the best Auto-X/Street pad out, but they are a bit pricey ($200 or so for Front and Rear). They dust a little bit more than stock pads and they will squeel very very quietly when you are stopping from 5MPH to 0, but they bite hard even when cold.
I also have Goodridge SS Lines on my car, which I installed at the same time as installing my R4-S's, so it's hard to tell what did what. Everyone seems to like any of the SS lines, but there are a few problems with them. You need to check the lines every so often because debris can eventually get inside of the outside steel material and corrode the hoses. I personally would stay stock because you won't notice too big of a difference in the hoses. I'm also assuming that you're stock rubber lines will last the life of your car.
Hopefully this helped.......
I also have Goodridge SS Lines on my car, which I installed at the same time as installing my R4-S's, so it's hard to tell what did what. Everyone seems to like any of the SS lines, but there are a few problems with them. You need to check the lines every so often because debris can eventually get inside of the outside steel material and corrode the hoses. I personally would stay stock because you won't notice too big of a difference in the hoses. I'm also assuming that you're stock rubber lines will last the life of your car.
Hopefully this helped.......
Josh, you should have just IM'ed me I could have helped you; what you don't trust me cause my brakes suX0r now?
1.) If the rotors aren't badly warped, get them machined; however, best bet is to replace them with Brembo blanks if you have the extra cash (~$60 for the fronts, ~$60 for the rears, I think)
2.) Stick with stock pads; no need for aftermarket, you will only be disappointed by either noise, the dust, or the performance in cold weather.
3.) You don't need SS lines. Street driving you will never tell the difference. Don't waste your time/money.
1.) If the rotors aren't badly warped, get them machined; however, best bet is to replace them with Brembo blanks if you have the extra cash (~$60 for the fronts, ~$60 for the rears, I think)
2.) Stick with stock pads; no need for aftermarket, you will only be disappointed by either noise, the dust, or the performance in cold weather.
3.) You don't need SS lines. Street driving you will never tell the difference. Don't waste your time/money.
Josh, like everyone has said, get the blanks, stock pads(I would go with aftermarket but knowing you, stick with stockers), and DO NOT get the stainless steel brake lines. They are not a good idea at all, You cannot check the condition of the lines like the rubber ones and I have only heard horror stories of the stainless steel lines braking due to internal deterioration. It also puts unnecessary stress on the master cylinder because there is no flex in the lines.
-nate
[Modified by Nate, 5:26 PM 5/6/2002]
-nate
[Modified by Nate, 5:26 PM 5/6/2002]
Ditto what everyone else said.
However if your stock rotors can be machined within spec I would have that done and keep them just in case you do a track event. Having an extra set of rotors at the track is always a good idea... If you are just going to throw them out - please give them to me
Clayton - who thinks all the Milwaukee ITR guys should get together soon.
However if your stock rotors can be machined within spec I would have that done and keep them just in case you do a track event. Having an extra set of rotors at the track is always a good idea... If you are just going to throw them out - please give them to me

Clayton - who thinks all the Milwaukee ITR guys should get together soon.
Thanks for the help everyone! The consistency of all your responses is a good sign. 
I'll stick with the stock brake lines and then go with new stock pads and Brembo rotors.

I'll stick with the stock brake lines and then go with new stock pads and Brembo rotors.
Basically what everyone else said, order the Brembo's, but stay with the stock pads and lines. Is this what I told you the other day, I cant remeber.
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I just got off the phone with Steve from Colletti Motorsports (phone#: 937-312-1533) to check on the price for the Brembo rotors. Steve said they cost $38.50 each for the front! That’s seems like an amazing deal. They don’t have ITR rear rotors in yet but apparently Brembo is in the process of shipping them out.
When I was talking with Steve he said that they are “heavy as sin.” He said that in a good way but I was thinking, “I don’t want heavy stuff on my car.” I put Volk TE-37’s on my car for a reason and it’s not only for looks. Does anyone know the weight for the brembo rotors compared to the stockers? This decison would be so easy if the Brembo's were lighter than the stock rotors.
When I was talking with Steve he said that they are “heavy as sin.” He said that in a good way but I was thinking, “I don’t want heavy stuff on my car.” I put Volk TE-37’s on my car for a reason and it’s not only for looks. Does anyone know the weight for the brembo rotors compared to the stockers? This decison would be so easy if the Brembo's were lighter than the stock rotors.
I probably won't be able to make the autox this Sunday, but Nate and I will be there for the next one. We defienatly should have a Milwuakee meet soon.
FYI - My local Acura dealership (Acura of Brookfield) charges $130 per front rotor! Brembos for $38.50 are looking very favorable right now.
I probably won't be able to make the autox this Sunday, but Nate and I will be there for the next one. We defienatly should have a Milwuakee meet soon.
-nate(cannot wait to get back to beating on my car
)
for those of you running the brembos blanks, what kind of horsepower are you guys making to the wheels?? I imagine if you are running lots of mods and more HP then you might want to upgrade to something else?? just curious because im still trying to figure out what I should do about my brakes. can the brembos/stockers handle higher horsepower without any problems??
and DO NOT get the stainless steel brake lines. They are not a good idea at all, You cannot check the condition of the lines like the rubber ones and I have only heard horror stories of the stainless steel lines braking due to internal deterioration. It also puts unnecessary stress on the master cylinder because there is no flex in the lines.
SS lines are a great addition to even a street driven car - they substantially improve pedal feel.
I don't think you are supposed to hit the cones
so Josh when are we going to see your sorry @$$ on the track? Come on, you know you want to...
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for those of you running the brembos blanks, what kind of horsepower are you guys making to the wheels?? I imagine if you are running lots of mods and more HP then you might want to upgrade to something else?? just curious because im still trying to figure out what I should do about my brakes. can the brembos/stockers handle higher horsepower without any problems??
Josh: run brembos or autozones.. remember heavy rotors are NOT a bad thing, thermal mass if your friend, that little bit of weight close to the hub isn't going to make much difference, especially on a street driven car. Stock pads are best as well for a street driven car. SS lines are a preference, personally I don't use them on any of my cars, but it's up to you.
remember heavy rotors are NOT a bad thing, thermal mass if your friend, that little bit of weight close to the hub isn't going to make much difference, especially on a street driven car.
bringing this post back from the dead...
Several questions and concerns that I must ask... ive serached and read. but this seems to be teh most informative...
well here u go:
I don;t own an itr, all i have is a 95 gsr sedan.
well here's my problem that I have, It's been 2 years since I have driven my car, my rotors were rusted badly so i took them off to sandblast them along iwth my calipers.
I've already bleed the brake system and everything is fine. Brake pressure is there when i step on my brakes.
Well here's what I am encountering... when driving if i step on the brake lightly nothing happens the car keeps rolling as if nothing is stopping it, I am forced to slam on my brakes for me to stop...
Does anyone know what the problem is? Is it my aem brake pads? or did i screw up my rotor when i sandblasted it?
in regards to brake upgrades, what would you be recommending me? I don;t own an itr's braking system so my braking capabilities are not as superior as itr owners. Would it be beneficial for me to upgrade to the aem big brake kit?
By the way i will be putting 250-300 to the wheels so do you think stock brake system can handle that much power?
brembo vs autozone, which one is better? i didnt get a clear answer while reading so i'd liek to get a firm response.
Thank you for all your time.
Several questions and concerns that I must ask... ive serached and read. but this seems to be teh most informative...
well here u go:
I don;t own an itr, all i have is a 95 gsr sedan.
well here's my problem that I have, It's been 2 years since I have driven my car, my rotors were rusted badly so i took them off to sandblast them along iwth my calipers.
I've already bleed the brake system and everything is fine. Brake pressure is there when i step on my brakes.
Well here's what I am encountering... when driving if i step on the brake lightly nothing happens the car keeps rolling as if nothing is stopping it, I am forced to slam on my brakes for me to stop...
Does anyone know what the problem is? Is it my aem brake pads? or did i screw up my rotor when i sandblasted it?
in regards to brake upgrades, what would you be recommending me? I don;t own an itr's braking system so my braking capabilities are not as superior as itr owners. Would it be beneficial for me to upgrade to the aem big brake kit?
By the way i will be putting 250-300 to the wheels so do you think stock brake system can handle that much power?
brembo vs autozone, which one is better? i didnt get a clear answer while reading so i'd liek to get a firm response.
Thank you for all your time.
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