I just picked up an '94 eg hatch as a daily driver/winter keeping it in the Honda family to go along with my s2000.

I may mod it, but for the most part, my parts money goes into the S.

The hatch is a dx auto. just crossed the 73,000 mile mark and I picked it with for $2000 with 15" speedline wheels and upgraded speakers/headunit - which was a complete steal IMO. Sure, I wish it was a manual, but you can't have everything I guess :lol:

anyways, i'm guessing I have a 1.5l motor in it... I just can't find the name anywhere... I think it's a d15xxx? not sure, can anyone fill me in?

- also, what should I look for in terms of maintenence?
- first off, how many quarts of oil go into this thing? my guess is just a little over 4?
- i noticed a little bit of rust starting to form on the rear 1/4 panels, i hear this is common?
- the front brakes were just replaced by the previous owner, however, the steering wheels still shakes a bit during light, high speed braking.


basically, just looking to gather some info about the car. I never drove an eg before, and I must say, it's VERY fun to drive - handles alot better than i expected

downsides:
I'm used to alot more power
It's an auto
Steering ratio sucks


Thank You in advance!
Luke


Modified by Luke530 at 2:07 PM 10/25/2006

 

1) The engine stamp is on a tag next to the trans about 1/2 down the block
2)4 qrts of oil will leave you a little high on the dip stick. It takes like 3.8qrts of oil
3)1/4 panel rust very common
4) Check your rotors run out it could be warped or you have a caliper hanging up
5) things to keep in mind the timing belt should be changed at 90,000 but do to the age of the car I would get it done sooner. when changing the timing belt replace the water pump, belt tensioner, and your acc belts.
6) Go over the front end check all the ball joints tie rods inner and outer and your bushings. if all look good you are good to go enjoy your new found toy the Eg is a great car to play around with


Modified by instructor74 at 11:41 AM 10/25/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) The engine stamp is on a tag next to the trans about 1/2 down the block
2)4 qrts of oil will leave you a little high on the dip stick. It takes like 3.8qrts of oil
3)1/4 panel rust very common
4) Check your rotors run out it could be warped or you have a caliper hanging up
5) things to keep in mind the timing belt should be changed at 90,000 but do to the age of the car I would get it done sooner. when changing the timing belt replace the water pump, belt tensioner, and your acc belts.
6) Go over the front end check all the ball joints tie rods inner and outer and you bushings. if all look good you are good to go enjoy your new found toy the Eg is a great car to play around with </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yeah thats a really good steal for only 73k miles. the motor depends which kind of hatch it is.

 

you have a d15b7 asuming its the stock motor.

 

Thanks for the info!

oh, I forgot to mention, only the front disc brakes and pads were replaced. The rear drums were not. I guess it could be that as well, but I don't think that could cause the steering wheels vibration.

I'll be checking the suspension parts when I lift the car up to change to oil and tranny fluid.

Oil = castol syntec or mobil 1 10w-30 or 5w-30? (the car will be run in a chicago winter... so maybe 5w-30 will be better?). I don't neccesarily care to go with a "high mileage" forumla.
Tranny = what fluid should I use? 75w90 synthetic?
Motor = yes, it is a d15b7

 

damn this forum moves fast...

buuuump :lol:

 

u dont need synthetic.. but 5w30 is good
i have a 93 dx its also auto my gas mileage is roughly 30 maybe a lil less

 

For trans fluid use honda mtf or sycromess. the manual calls for 5w30 I think but at the time the car was built mtf was not avil. The mtf fluid is the same as motor oil with an additives package to protect the soft metals in the trans

 

As far as finding which brakes are causing the vibrations there's an easy way:

Take the car up the the speeds that you notice the vibrations, but rather than hit the brakes pull up on the e-brake just enough to feel the rear drums engage.

Does the handle vibrate?

Is you've got warped rear drums. I'd say replace them since they're cheap, and when doing so check the wheel cylinders for any leakage.

If the e-brake handle is 100% smooth then it's definately your front rotors. some might say turn them, but I'd replace them. the best way to turn them is on the car, and rather than pay some shop to do it that way just replace them yourself for the same amount of money or less.

Also a word of advice from personal experience:

Slotted/Cross drilled rotors sure look cool and get you cool points, but they do not last as long as a solid rotor before they warp.

 

wow good deal for so little miles

 

i wouldnt use synthetic on a car of that age since it probably has never seen synthetic oil.... what ahppens when you put that kind of oil on a motor with somewhat higher miles it expands the seals and it causes them to leak and break down... your best bet is to use regualr oil and since winter is cold up here in the north i would go with 5w30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For trans fluid use honda mtf or sycromesh. the manual calls for 5w30 I think but at the time the car was built mtf was not avil. The mtf fluid is the same as motor oil with an additives package to protect the soft metals in the trans</TD></TR></TABLE>


the cars an auto why does he need to know about MTF?, but aside from that good find on the low mileage.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I don't know why i mentioned 75w90 for tranny fluid. I guess i'm used to the other car.

So what transmission fluid should I use?

I'll stick with regular oil. High mileage formula ok?

Thanks Again!
Luke

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luke530 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replies.

I don't know why i mentioned 75w90 for tranny fluid. I guess i'm used to the other car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The S2000? Dude I wouldn't be putting 75W90 in that transmission either. That's more like diff fluid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what transmission fluid should I use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Genuine Honda ATF-Z1. Some may say "Dextron 3" or whatever that **** is, but always trust the OE fluid and nothing else in that auto tranny.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll stick with regular oil. High mileage formula ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly I'm not sure how high mileage is any better, and I've got plenty of 300,000+ mile customers at my shop that have been using regular old 5W30 since they owned their cars.



Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 10:38 AM 10/27/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luke530 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replies.

I don't know why i mentioned 75w90 for tranny fluid. I guess i'm used to the other car.

So what transmission fluid should I use?

I'll stick with regular oil. High mileage formula ok?

Thanks Again!
Luke</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go with what the specs are and don't go anything too thick...otherwise you'll have issues putting it in gear when it's cold.

 

wow good deal but if u realty want to fell like u are driving your s2K do a engine swap, maybe a LSvtech for the power and type R suspension u know for those turns lol Anyways for now to solve the shakes check all ball joints tie rods inner and outer and your bushings.

 

lol... yes, 75w90 is diff fluid :lol:
I use redline MTF in that tranny and mobile 1 75w90 in the diff.

I'm thinking about wapping the head to make it a D16z? I think that's right. Any D-series head and block are compatible, correct? I could pick up some power there.

Other than that, CAI, headers ($150), and an exhaust is all i'm thinking about.

Any exhausts out there for a decent price without a HUGE muffler. I like an aggressive tone, but not necessarily a loud, large muffler. It's a DD, so I don't want it crazy loud.

Dextron3 tranny

I'll be checking the suspension soon. There seems to be a large quantity of aftermarket suspension parts for this car that a relatively cheap. any recommendations there? (besides type-r suspension, which would probably be used already)

Thanks Again! (learn new things everyday) :lol:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luke530 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm thinking about wapping the head to make it a D16z? I think that's right. Any D-series head and block are compatible, correct? I could pick up some power there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it'd still be a D15 engine, but with a VTEC head. It'd be more like a D15B VTEC engine that importers carry. IMO it's not worth the time - I'd just buy yourself a good old D16Z6 stock 92-95 Ex/Si engine - people sell them very cheap after they swap in DOHC engines.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other than that, CAI, headers ($150), and an exhaust is all i'm thinking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For looks and sound perhaps, but it won't pick up much whp honestly. (And it's one header, not headers. )

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any exhausts out there for a decent price without a HUGE muffler. I like an aggressive tone, but not necessarily a loud, large muffler. It's a DD, so I don't want it crazy loud.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best advice here is to have a local muffler shop pipe up some good 2.25'' exhaust piping, make sure they install a 2.25'' resonator, and then a quiet muffler to round out the package. I've got a sweet quiet exhaust system on my daily driver hatch that cost me $200.00 total with labor and all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dextron3 tranny </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, Honda ATF-Z1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll be checking the suspension soon. There seems to be a large quantity of aftermarket suspension parts for this car that a relatively cheap. any recommendations there? (besides type-r suspension, which would probably be used already)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the desired ride height, but from my personal experience from owning three 92 hatches and running a Honda shop I'd suggest KYB GR-2 struts and Tein S-Tech springs for a nice stance that won't require camber kits, rides nice, and is cost effective. Coincidentally I also run that exact combo on my daily driver EF hatch.

 

header

writing fast just like "wapping" instead of "swapping"

I'll look into the motors a bit more.

on the muffler shop. good idea.

I figure after 13 years of stock suspension, shocks and springs are probably starting to wear. Everything seems ok, but it's probably time for an overhaul. I'll know more when I get under the car.

Thanks Again.

 

No problem. It's better to ask questions and get answers from people with first-hand experince rather than guess or take some company's word for it that their products rule or some ****.

BTW:

What sort of budget are you working with here?

 

Right now, my main concern is making the car feel like it's mine. maintained by ME.

basically, I want to make myself comfortable that the car is up to my maintenence standards.

- oil and transmission change
- front brakes are new, rear brakes need change
- check if suspension is ok
- replace air filter (maybe a CAI)
- replace timing belt, acc belts, belt tensioner (as was mentioned)

then after that, I will see whether I would like to keep the mod money only for the s2k, or, as it seems now, have some fun with the eg as well.

I'm looking to spend no more than $800 on the car this year. It's my daily, and for now, that's my main concern.

I'm looking for maybe a front lip, maybe a little drop, some stronger headlights (maybe better bulbs?), then an exhaust and header (unless I find a cheap motor swap). I would not have to worry much about labor, my friend has taken the motor out of his supra numerous times, along with doing a manual to TH400 3 speed swap. I"m sure we could do it ourselves if it came down to it.

What cost am I looking at for a motor swap?
Changing the head would really do nothing?

 

Also, gas:

87 or 89?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, Honda ATF-Z1
</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's right, Honda automatic trannies should NEVER see anything but Honda ATF-Z1. I've seen more than one Honda tranny die from Dexron 3. Something magical about that Honda fluid.