Clutch won't disengage
Last night I installed a new transmission and a new Clutch Specialties clutch. But the clutch won't fully disengage. I can shift through the gears beautifully when the car is off, but it won't go into gear when I start it. If I start the car in 1st with the clutch pedal all the way down, the car starts to move.
The pedal feel is hard to diagnose because it's a new clutch I've never had experience with, but the pressure seems fine. Definitely no air in the lines. What gives?
The pedal feel is hard to diagnose because it's a new clutch I've never had experience with, but the pressure seems fine. Definitely no air in the lines. What gives?
adjust some freeplay into pedal. look under the dash and you see a 12mm nut and adjust it untill you get some freeplay and it should dissengage
if that doesnt work check the placement of the slave cyclider on the throwout bearing lever thingy
if that doesnt work check the placement of the slave cyclider on the throwout bearing lever thingy
The clutch adjustment is confusing me. When I start to push the pedal down, it already feels like there was pressure on the throw-out bearing. So I was going to loosen up the pedal. But it also feels like the pedal needs to be tightened because when I push it all the way to the floor, it doesn't fully disengage.
I did a few clutch burnouts today to help break in the clutch and it helped a bit. It also helps if I really mash the pedal into the floorboard.
I did a few clutch burnouts today to help break in the clutch and it helped a bit. It also helps if I really mash the pedal into the floorboard.
What kind of trans? Is it hydraulic slave or cable? If its a cable it could be improperly adjusted, if its hydraulic the clutch might need to be bled. Worst case scenario is you put the clutch disc in backwards.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirRevvs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of trans? Is it hydraulic slave or cable? If its a cable it could be improperly adjusted, if its hydraulic the clutch might need to be bled. Worst case scenario is you put the clutch disc in backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
D-series hydro trans. Doesn't need to be bled because I never opened the clutch lines.
And it's a 6 puck clutch, I don't think it's even possible to install backwards...? At any rate, I've done enough clutch jobs before to know the procedure. However, I did rebuild the trans myself and I might have goofed something inside?
D-series hydro trans. Doesn't need to be bled because I never opened the clutch lines.
And it's a 6 puck clutch, I don't think it's even possible to install backwards...? At any rate, I've done enough clutch jobs before to know the procedure. However, I did rebuild the trans myself and I might have goofed something inside?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shepherd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
D-series hydro trans. Doesn't need to be bled because I never opened the clutch lines.
And it's a 6 puck clutch, I don't think it's even possible to install backwards...? At any rate, I've done enough clutch jobs before to know the procedure. However, I did rebuild the trans myself and I might have goofed something inside? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Either the clutch is bad/improperly installed or the hydrulic system is faulty. Any tiem I r&r a trans I always bleed the clutch afterwards, sometimes they can get air in the system. One time I had the same problem and in turned out a flywheel bolt backed out into the disc, but that's not likely that happened if you rpoperly torqued the bolts down.
D-series hydro trans. Doesn't need to be bled because I never opened the clutch lines.
And it's a 6 puck clutch, I don't think it's even possible to install backwards...? At any rate, I've done enough clutch jobs before to know the procedure. However, I did rebuild the trans myself and I might have goofed something inside? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Either the clutch is bad/improperly installed or the hydrulic system is faulty. Any tiem I r&r a trans I always bleed the clutch afterwards, sometimes they can get air in the system. One time I had the same problem and in turned out a flywheel bolt backed out into the disc, but that's not likely that happened if you rpoperly torqued the bolts down.
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did u push the clutch when the tranny was off? if so theres probly air in the lines. u know 100% that u put the throw out bearing back in. r all the pressure plate bolts in adn tight? if u know all that pull the tranny and do it again. good luck
All the bolts are tq'd right. Everthing should be installed right actually seeing as I've done lots of clutch jobs before. New bearings all around.
I tried bleeding the lines and it didn't do anything. Although, after a few days of use now, the problem is almost completely gone. It's still hard to get into first, but that's about it. I did several clutch burnouts and after each one it was easier to go into gear.
I'm going to try a couple of things tomorrow - flushing the fluid and re-filling with HG trans fluid (it's standard 10w-30 right now). I'm also going to try adjusting the clutch pedal.
I tried bleeding the lines and it didn't do anything. Although, after a few days of use now, the problem is almost completely gone. It's still hard to get into first, but that's about it. I did several clutch burnouts and after each one it was easier to go into gear.
I'm going to try a couple of things tomorrow - flushing the fluid and re-filling with HG trans fluid (it's standard 10w-30 right now). I'm also going to try adjusting the clutch pedal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like TOB</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the post above yours retard. I'm the OP and I alreay said it was the pushrod. You sure give a lot of bad advice.
Read the post above yours retard. I'm the OP and I alreay said it was the pushrod. You sure give a lot of bad advice.
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