I just had the A/C evaporator in my 93 Accord EX replaced. I was also told that one of the two fans needs to be replaced since it has a "dead spot" and won't turn unless you give it a manual spin to get it going. I was told that when the weather gets hot next summer, then I could experience some more A/C problems if this isn't fixed. There are two fans right behind the rad. The one on the right (passenger side) seems to be going all the time when the A/C button is on so I am guessing that this is the condenser fan - it is not the problem. The one that is faulty is on the left hand side (driver side) which I gather is the cooling fan for the rad. Does this fan supplement the cooling to the condenser in hot weather? I am guessing that it kicks in more frequently during hot weather for the cooling system but didn't think it also helped with the refrigerant cooling for the A/C. I thought that not fixing it would create problems for my cooling system more than for the A/C. So what is the exact purpose of each fan and how do they complement each other if at all?

 

COOLING FAN DONT WORK,I CK.RELAY TEMP SENSOR,CAN BE THE COOLING CONTROL MADULE

 

A/C on both fans should be on. You can test the fan motor by applying 12v at the connector to see if the motor comes on. The left fan comes on by itself when the coolant reaches 194*.

 

IIRC, the fan on the driver's side is the AC condenser fan and the fan motor on the passenger side is the radiator fan.

 

The one fan comes on, only when car is off, and the temp on thermo B reaches ~217...IIRC, thermo A comes on ~194.....at least on 5th gens

and Redbull, my memory is the same on the 4 cyl.....

 

As the others have said the fan on the drivers side is for the compressor and if it does not work you will have no cold air this summer. It is a easy fix to do yourself.

 

I had this happen to me. All of the electronics/switches/sensors that are supposed to activate the fan are working fine, but the fan needs a little "push" to get it going. You can save money by ordering the whole assembly online, but they're almost always stocked at local auto parts stores if your pressed for time. Also, if you're both cash strapped and pressed for time (the usual for me), you can usually get just the fan motor at local stores. It takes a bit more doing, but the end result is the same. (Hint...if you're going to go that route, take the old motor with you to match it up). Good luck!

 

I got my new fan moter at advanced auto parts. the 1st one did not work so well. The nut did not fit right on the top of the fan and it wabbled around and bound up and I was blowing fuses. So I took it back, the next one they gave me had a redesigned nut with a bigger skirt to keep the fan from wabbling. I also learned not to tighted up the nut so tight but just just tight enouph to keep the fan from fling of but not so tight that the fan bound up on the moter. I really like advanced auto parts. They got my part in 3 hours after I ordered it and were very nice about taking back the one that did not work. Hope all this helps.

 

I have another 93 with a cooling fan problem.
If I understand the system correctly, pulling the wire from the sensor by the t-stat and jumping the contacts should activate the cooling fan. It does not. I went further and verified that there is full battery voltage going to the relay. I swapped the relay for a known good unit (the power window relay is identical).
If I pull the connector at the fan and jump the battery directly to the fan it spins instantly and sounds strong and smooth. Is the problem an open somewhere in the wiring? If so, does anyone know the best place to access the harness to bypass the potentially bad section?

 

I've jus bought my new replacement fan motor but i cant seem to separate the fan blades from the fan motor. The nut and stud seems to spin with the motor internals so i couldnt loosen it. i was wondering how you took it off?

 

Wow, two different issues.

Midlife...."Which" is not running, drivers or pass side...

King...if you only have the "motor", I think there is a "flat" on the shaft you will need to hold...what year on engine do you have.

 

In my case it is the cooling fan, the passenger side. I whipped up a test harness and I have what appears to be two wiring issues. One, no signal is getting to the relay to tell it to turn on and if I bypass that and make it close by giving it a signal from a jumper wire, I can hear the relay close but the fan does not turn on.
If I jump directly from the battery to the fan, the fan cycles on as I indicated previously.
During all these tests, the harness to the t-stat sensor is jumpered, which I understand is simulating the fluid being hot enough to open the t-stat and turn on the fan.

 

Which is on the upper hose and which is on the lower hose?

 

Does the lower temp thermoswitch do anything other than cause the radiator fan to come on? By that I mean does it send a signal that the car's computer needs? If I disconnect the cable and use the switch with a handmade wiring harness to control the fan will the car run properly?

 

Thermo A is on the t-stat, lower hose in this gen. This one does the fans while the car is on or running.

Thermo B is on the upper hose, this controls the FAN, singular, when the car is off.

These switches are "grounds". Meaning when they close/complete the circut the fans come on...IIRC, the only time the ECU comes into play here is when the AC is switched on...it sends the ground to make the fans (both) come on no matter what thermo a says....

 

I need to be absolutely sure about this. The switches are not "grounds" but "normally open". Neither contact is tied to the block or ground, they are floating until the temp exceeds specification then they are connected to each other, completing the connection between whatever is connected to the other ends of the wires.
I am told that the A/C works. If I disconnect Switch B from the harness and use it as a controller for my own relay harness to turn the fan on whenever the temp is high enough, the system should be okay. The A/C is run off Switch A so it should continue to work, correct?

 

The switches are "open" when cold. Once hot they close to complete the circut. Can somewhat be called a ground-using a 91 manual and switch A - because one wire (black) goes to body ground (G101). The other wire (blue) goes to the relay.

Turning on the AC by passes switch a. I think the ECU sends the ground signal to close the relays (AC, Cooling fan and condenser fan). I'd have to dig up another part of the manuals.

 

I made up my own little harness that uses the relay to carry the heavy current and the thermo switch to activate the relay. Took a test drive and the car never got over half way on the temp gauge. When I got back the fan stayed running for a while. It isn't exactly by design, but it works.
Oh, yeah, the A/C was nice and cold.

 

There should be a flat spot on the bolt that your fan slides over to key the whole thing. Tighten the nut on the fan (after you take the housing out of the car of course) just tight enouph to keep the fan from wabbling around but not tight enouph to bind up the fan. You should be able spin it with your hand easily.

 

My cars a 91' honda crx so my radiator fans on the passenger side and the a/c fans on the driver side. I couldnt reach the flat side on the shaft from under the nut. There's not enough room on the front side of the fan blades..

 

I am sorry, I will not be able to help, crx or out of my league. You might have to take off the bottom shroud that protects the underside of your car to get to the bolt you want.

 

thanks i got it but after i changed the fan motor out. it still wont turn on. Do u guys think it may be the RELAY TEMP SENSOR? where is this sensor located?

 

King_First which fan is not running? Your post is not clear, at leat to me....

 

Both fans the radiator coolin fan and the a/c fan...

 

Neither one, can assume that you put power to both fans. Jump thermo/switch a and turn the key on/pos II- do the fans come on?