Which bushings are most important to replace on a 200k chassis?
My CRX has probably 185k on it...I don' really know since the speedo/odo hasn't worked since I got it. (I'm lazy....and I printed a rpm/mph chart that now blocks my speedo
)
Anyways, one of the three times I removed the tranny I noticed a majorly worn bushing in the LCA. I did want to replace all of the bushings with one of the master bushing kits, but a friend suggested to me that I should just replace the major ones. The problem is that I don't know which ones to replace.
Let me know your opinions. thanks
)Anyways, one of the three times I removed the tranny I noticed a majorly worn bushing in the LCA. I did want to replace all of the bushings with one of the master bushing kits, but a friend suggested to me that I should just replace the major ones. The problem is that I don't know which ones to replace.
Let me know your opinions. thanks
front and rear lca's. i suggest you just get some better condition used ones instead of replacing the bushings. those polyurethane ones arent that great. i'd replaced the rear trailing arm bushings with oem for sure. also look at your upper and lower ball joints and inner and outter tie rods.
My left outer tie rod end is bad, but I'm probably going to replace all 4.... Upper ball joints have been replaced with the UCA camber kit thing by the previous owner.
Lower ball joints are a p.i.t.a. I've only done it once and used an air hammer, which I no longer have access to. How do i test if the Lower ball joints are bad?
Lower ball joints are a p.i.t.a. I've only done it once and used an air hammer, which I no longer have access to. How do i test if the Lower ball joints are bad?
you shake the suspension to figure out if the balljoints need replacing. raise the car and hold the wheel and shake left right and push up and down and what not. it helps to have a friend also, or at least a 3rd or 4th hand to help shake and then isolate the balljoint by putting your hand around it and feeling for play. any play is bad play and in need of replacement.
what i personally think is important to change is the rack end bushing on the steering rack. it will dramatically improve steering and suspension feel. and if you really are going to replace the inner tie rod on the passenger side, you might as well replace that rack end bushing. btw, it helps to take the rack out of the chassis to replace the inner tie rod and rack end bushing.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yeah, both front and LCA bushings. i bought new OEM rear LCA for $130 shipped. and then the front inner bushing for the front.
what i personally think is important to change is the rack end bushing on the steering rack. it will dramatically improve steering and suspension feel. and if you really are going to replace the inner tie rod on the passenger side, you might as well replace that rack end bushing. btw, it helps to take the rack out of the chassis to replace the inner tie rod and rack end bushing.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
and yeah, both front and LCA bushings. i bought new OEM rear LCA for $130 shipped. and then the front inner bushing for the front.
Ok, I have tested the front suspension on many many cars (did it at every oil change in the shop where I used to work - only worked on Hondas) and only once seen a lower ball joint go bad....would you still recomend replacing them?
I might just replace the entire rack if I need to remove it anyways, the steering feels horrible.
I've done some reading on the poly bushings, and I think I'll just go with new rubber bushings. Where should I get the new bushings?
I might just replace the entire rack if I need to remove it anyways, the steering feels horrible.
I've done some reading on the poly bushings, and I think I'll just go with new rubber bushings. Where should I get the new bushings?
replace the lower ball joint if its bad. you have to test if its bad. if its not, then dont. same goes for all the balljoints. however if theres a cracked boot and dry and sand ridden, then its probably gone bad.
i dont really see the point in replacing the whole rack. first of all, its hard to find a whole "rebuilt" rack for the manual crx rack. secondly, theres only 2 rebuildable parts! the pinion bearing and the rack end bushing. thats it. worth $15 in parts. why buy a new rack?
now it if was a power steering rack with a bunch of extra bushings and seals and whatnot, then its worth finding a whole new rack.
yes, get OEM rubber. ive always got mine from various online dealers for the best prices. however, you can get new "oem quality" bushings from parts stores like http://www.ips-parts.com/ however i cannot vouch for the quality. i assume they really try to find OEM quality parts, and could very well get them directly from the same manufacturer. so who knows. cheap enough to give it a try? up to you.
i dont really see the point in replacing the whole rack. first of all, its hard to find a whole "rebuilt" rack for the manual crx rack. secondly, theres only 2 rebuildable parts! the pinion bearing and the rack end bushing. thats it. worth $15 in parts. why buy a new rack?
now it if was a power steering rack with a bunch of extra bushings and seals and whatnot, then its worth finding a whole new rack.
yes, get OEM rubber. ive always got mine from various online dealers for the best prices. however, you can get new "oem quality" bushings from parts stores like http://www.ips-parts.com/ however i cannot vouch for the quality. i assume they really try to find OEM quality parts, and could very well get them directly from the same manufacturer. so who knows. cheap enough to give it a try? up to you.
thanks, I'm pricing the OEM parts for hondapartsdeals.com. The shop where I used to work still hooks me up, and has several parts dealers that sell OEM or OE products for less than discounted Honda parts. I'm going to get the part #'s and do some shopping around.
One more question...which number is the trailing arm bushing?
Modified by thehatchninja at 2:02 PM 10/10/2006
One more question...which number is the trailing arm bushing?
Modified by thehatchninja at 2:02 PM 10/10/2006
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It doesn't show a number because they didn't used to offer just teh bushing by itself. It's the big bushing in the middle of 26/27 where the #40 bolt is going through. I believe the part number you want is 52385-SR3-000, not 100% sure though
you can get them from magauto.com for 25 each ,but i dunno if the part number is the same as for an eg.
52385-S21-003 RR TRAILING ARM BUSH
thats the new updated number, its also cheaper than the sr3 for whatever reason. i believe it will work for all 88-00civic/crx and DC2 integras.
edit** yes http://www.magauto.com has em for about $25 each just click on honda and search by part number
Modified by chrisw85 at 1:09 PM 10/10/2006
thats the new updated number, its also cheaper than the sr3 for whatever reason. i believe it will work for all 88-00civic/crx and DC2 integras.
edit** yes http://www.magauto.com has em for about $25 each just click on honda and search by part number
Modified by chrisw85 at 1:09 PM 10/10/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :Andrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www2.hondiscountparts.c...false</TD></TR></TABLE>
more expensive than this.
http://www.slhondaparts.com/se...1-003
but thanks for trying.
more expensive than this.
http://www.slhondaparts.com/se...1-003
but thanks for trying.
<u>Suspension Parts Replacement List, 90 CRX Si</U>
<u>Front LCA Bushings</u> -Total $59.78
-Inner 51393-sh3-000 -x2 16.86
-shock/outer 51810-sh3-004 -x2 13.03
<U>Rear LCA Bushings</U> -Total $81.14
-shock 52622-sh3-010 -x2 13.65
-other 2 52365-sh3-000 -x4 13.46
<U>Radius Rod</U> -Total $17.92
RR bushings - 51395-sh3-000 - 4.48 x4
<U>Rack</U> -Total $7.89
Rack end bush - 53430-sh3-000 $7.89
That's $166.73, (all honda bushings) without the trailing arm bushings and appx $220 with. I'm sure I can get some of the bushings cheaper also. That's a lot of money for me considering what I have invested in the car, but i think it will improve the ride, and overall feel a lot.
<u>Front LCA Bushings</u> -Total $59.78
-Inner 51393-sh3-000 -x2 16.86
-shock/outer 51810-sh3-004 -x2 13.03
<U>Rear LCA Bushings</U> -Total $81.14
-shock 52622-sh3-010 -x2 13.65
-other 2 52365-sh3-000 -x4 13.46
<U>Radius Rod</U> -Total $17.92
RR bushings - 51395-sh3-000 - 4.48 x4
<U>Rack</U> -Total $7.89
Rack end bush - 53430-sh3-000 $7.89
That's $166.73, (all honda bushings) without the trailing arm bushings and appx $220 with. I'm sure I can get some of the bushings cheaper also. That's a lot of money for me considering what I have invested in the car, but i think it will improve the ride, and overall feel a lot.
for the cost and effort of replacing the bushings, id just get new complete rear LCA instead.

mmm... OEM goodness!
and are your steering rack boots ripped? if so, then yeah, your inner tie rods are probably in need of replacement. and youll want to buy replacement boots too. if not, then maybe the inner tie rods are fine and not worth spending time and money on.
Modified by Tyson at 3:24 PM 10/10/2006

mmm... OEM goodness!
and are your steering rack boots ripped? if so, then yeah, your inner tie rods are probably in need of replacement. and youll want to buy replacement boots too. if not, then maybe the inner tie rods are fine and not worth spending time and money on.
Modified by Tyson at 3:24 PM 10/10/2006
I was thinking the same thing, actually I was going to get some aftermarket ones. I don't know if any company uses hard rubber rather than poly though. I think Pic does, but they don't make any for CRX's
The left outer tie rod end is bad, there's no play in the right side.
The left outer tie rod end is bad, there's no play in the right side.
i wouldnt waste your money on aftermarket lca. they give no real benefit imo. bring up all the theories of unsprung weight, "improved" bushings, whatever. ppl get em for the looks. period.
crx's handled great when it came off the showroom. just doing my best to get it back to that has made me a happy crx driver. i've only made a few changes, replaced old shocks with illuminas, mugen rear 22mm swaybar and sedan 19mm front swaybar. thats it, ive chosen to remain on stock springs. ill also note that because my car was NEVER lowered, my trailing arm bushings are in great condition. along with new rear lca, new front inner bushing and fixed tie rod end too. most significant difference needed was the steering rack end bushing and adjustment. i cant stress that enough on a 18 year old car.
btw, i have 230k miles on the odo.
Modified by Tyson at 6:08 PM 10/10/2006
crx's handled great when it came off the showroom. just doing my best to get it back to that has made me a happy crx driver. i've only made a few changes, replaced old shocks with illuminas, mugen rear 22mm swaybar and sedan 19mm front swaybar. thats it, ive chosen to remain on stock springs. ill also note that because my car was NEVER lowered, my trailing arm bushings are in great condition. along with new rear lca, new front inner bushing and fixed tie rod end too. most significant difference needed was the steering rack end bushing and adjustment. i cant stress that enough on a 18 year old car.
btw, i have 230k miles on the odo.
Modified by Tyson at 6:08 PM 10/10/2006
Well, if you saw my car you'd know I care very little for bling. But, there are a lot of LCA's that I could get for less than the Honda ones. As long as they're comprable to
oem then I'll be happy.
yeah i just picked up a ST 22mm rear bar...leaving the stock front on. I'm pretty much trying to get the car back to solid mechanical condition, and making improvements here and there.
oem then I'll be happy.
yeah i just picked up a ST 22mm rear bar...leaving the stock front on. I'm pretty much trying to get the car back to solid mechanical condition, and making improvements here and there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1JDMDOMINICAN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are u guys saying that poly bushings aren't worth it? i was considering buying the master bushing kit from energy suspension for my DC.
Sorry, didn't mean 2 thread jack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
search, you'll find some threads on the differences....most people who know what they're talking about don't like them.
Sorry, didn't mean 2 thread jack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
search, you'll find some threads on the differences....most people who know what they're talking about don't like them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><u>Suspension Parts Replacement List, 90 CRX Si</U> <u>Front LCA Bushings</u> -Total $59.78
-Inner 51393-sh3-000 -x2 16.86
-shock/outer 51810-sh3-004 -x2 13.03
<U>Rear LCA Bushings</U> -Total $81.14
-shock 52622-sh3-010 -x2 13.65
-other 2 52365-sh3-000 -x4 13.46
<U>Radius Rod</U> -Total $17.92
RR bushings - 51395-sh3-000 - 4.48 x4
<U>Rack</U> -Total $7.89
Rack end bush - 53430-sh3-000 $7.89
That's $166.73, (all honda bushings) without the trailing arm bushings and appx $220 with. I'm sure I can get some of the bushings cheaper also. That's a lot of money for me considering what I have invested in the car, but i think it will improve the ride, and overall feel a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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