I went racing on labor day and the car ran perfect. No problems with the motor or anything else. About 3 weeks later I install a new tach, change the oil and change the plugs. When I try to start the car, it starts and runs like ****, almost like its misfiring. I pulled the plugs and they were covered with gas. After further evaluation I decide to buy a new distributor. I buy a new distributor from Distributor King and install it. Now the car starts and runs a little bit better but it is easy to tell it is not idling right. The motor won't stay on if you take your foot off the throttle. I pulled the plugs and all 4 of them look like this:









The pictures are different views of the same spark plug (#2). They all look like this.

So what's going on with this motor? I've checked all my grounds, checked for detached vacuum lines, etc. I do have a CEL but it will not give me a code when i jump the 2-P connector. This may have something to do with it but I don't know how to go about fixing this. The ECU has been opened by an ECU expert at InlinePro and nothing is burned, broken, etc.

About the motor/car:
H22A fully built
T4/T67 turbo
Hondata S300 tuned
Car has 116 fuel in it
4 x 1000 cc injectors
Spark Plugs are NGK BCPR7ES gapped @ 30 thousandths
Spark plug wires are NGK
External MSD Blaster coil
STR Intake Manifold
Lightning Motorsports 3-Bar MAP
the list goes on.

Anyway the car ran perfect at the track.

 

check with the tuner...........

 

change the plugs yet??

 

i've gone through 3 sets of plugs now. after thinking i fixed a problem, i'd put new plugs in, and they come out looking all black like this.

 

Any vacuum leaks? Have you set the timing correctly after installing the distributor?

 

did you maybe mess up a little wiring the tach in, or something like that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeterkm02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any vacuum leaks? Have you set the timing correctly after installing the distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i can't say for sure if i have a vacuum leak but i checked all the vacuum hoses and connections and they all look fine. i marked the position of the old dist. and put the new one as close as i could.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lobudgetr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you maybe mess up a little wiring the tach in, or something like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had an old tach in there that stopped working properly, so all i did with the installation of the new one was put all wiring in the same places as the old one.

 

your map and tps sensor plugs are the same? if so, try switching them around. I had a simular problem. This was after a couple days trying to figure out why my car wasn't running right, it had compression/ignition/spark, all of the factors that would make an engine run. I've started the car once before and everytime I set foot on the gas peddle it dies, and the idle really sounds rough. rechecked all my wiring from distributor/injector wires and etc.. and it all came down to switching the tps and map sensor

 

and also, if you're throwing a solid cel and can't check what the problem is, simular to what I had. There's no code to tell you the MAP sensor is faulty. but I might be wrong though, I'd have to check through the codes again.

 

my MAP and TPS connectors are different because I have a 3 Bar MAP sensor. there is a faulty MAP cel, 2 actually. code 3 is electrical MAP code 5 is mechanical MAP.

 

most of the time its usually the last thing you did that causes the problem if the car ran perfect before adjust the idle to at least keep the car running you should keep the oem distributer cap unless brand name distributor your replacing it with try putting back in your old spark plugs... are you sure there right plugs? or gapped right if there not the pre gap ones try putting back old ones in

 

If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator check it. My locking nut wasnt tight one time and i went ot he track. After about 3 runs its got wicked rich from high 11's to mid 10's a/f ratio. Checked the fuel pressure and it was way up. The regulator tightend it self from vibration. Try that.

 

my fuel pressure gauge on the fuel filter reads 30 psi which is what it always read.

i put the old spark plugs back in before and got the same result.

 

do anything else to your car? even the simplest thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0618turbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do anything else to your car? even the simplest thing</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i replaced the brass "T" that splits the oil feed from the back of the block.

 

Has your O2 sensor just shitted out?

 

If you have a solid CEL that will not blink when jumpered, the Hondata has lost it's map, or the chip is in backwards. Get your tuner to either check it or reburn you a new chip and see what happens. $1 says it fixes it. When the map is lost, it default back into a limp mode based off of a stock ECU map. Stock map w/ 1000cc injectors, 3bar, etc, isn't going to be pretty...

 

^ Exactly what i was thinking. if you've got the s300, can you pull the map off of it and or reload it. It's happened me before

 

This is probably way off, but check your PCV valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drag_S14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a solid CEL that will not blink when jumpered, the Hondata has lost it's map, or the chip is in backwards. Get your tuner to either check it or reburn you a new chip and see what happens. $1 says it fixes it. When the map is lost, it default back into a limp mode based off of a stock ECU map. Stock map w/ 1000cc injectors, 3bar, etc, isn't going to be pretty...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct! i got the tuner to but the tune back in it, and she fired up and purred like a kitten. gimme your paypal address and i'll make a deposit!

thanks a lot