Motor was built recently, burning oil already?
I've done research, but i wanted to ask your opinions to be case specific.
I had my B18c built about 2-3months ago. Everything was changed:
12:1Pistons\Rods\cams\springs\retainters\valves\va lve seals\etc... you get the point...
well recently i've been see'n blue smoke puffs coming out of my exhaust but now everytime i step on the gas even if it is a little bit there is a smoke cloud.
the shop i went to did a compression test and it showed 225 across all four cylinders. they told me i'm getting too much blow by and that i need a catch can..
can my motor really have that much blow by to have me burn 1qt. of oil every 3-4days? without beating on it?
at 1st i thought it was the valve seals but if the compression was 225 what could be the problem?
I had my B18c built about 2-3months ago. Everything was changed:
12:1Pistons\Rods\cams\springs\retainters\valves\va lve seals\etc... you get the point...
well recently i've been see'n blue smoke puffs coming out of my exhaust but now everytime i step on the gas even if it is a little bit there is a smoke cloud.
the shop i went to did a compression test and it showed 225 across all four cylinders. they told me i'm getting too much blow by and that i need a catch can..
can my motor really have that much blow by to have me burn 1qt. of oil every 3-4days? without beating on it?
at 1st i thought it was the valve seals but if the compression was 225 what could be the problem?
Im sure about this but, I dont 225 is that good for your setup. My stock block B16a has compression of 220. The only internals it has is in the head. Valvetrain and cams!! How did you break the motor in??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncivic28 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(this is my other sn)
i baby'd the motor the 1st 600miles.. nothing unusual... is there something i should've done when breaking it in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought it was comonly understood that you want to drive the car hard for the first 100 miles or so to seat the rings properly...
i baby'd the motor the 1st 600miles.. nothing unusual... is there something i should've done when breaking it in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought it was comonly understood that you want to drive the car hard for the first 100 miles or so to seat the rings properly...
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i dont know...
what i would like to know is do i really need a Catch Can? alot of people are telling me that i dont need one and the reason i am burning oil is because of the rings or valve seals, and getting a catch can wont stop my motor from burning oil... is this true?
what i would like to know is do i really need a Catch Can? alot of people are telling me that i dont need one and the reason i am burning oil is because of the rings or valve seals, and getting a catch can wont stop my motor from burning oil... is this true?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely it's because the crankcase isn't being vented properly, I had the same problem then hooked up my endyn catch can and my problem's solved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good crank case ventilation (catch can setup) will diminish your oil consumption to some degree, and help the rings seal better. The oil consumption you are describing is beyond what a catch can alone will fix. Sounds like valve stem seals are causing a problem also.
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.
Good crank case ventilation (catch can setup) will diminish your oil consumption to some degree, and help the rings seal better. The oil consumption you are describing is beyond what a catch can alone will fix. Sounds like valve stem seals are causing a problem also.
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomcat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Curious... Did breaking in the engine this way result in low/zero oil consumption?
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Curious... Did breaking in the engine this way result in low/zero oil consumption?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomcat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good crank case ventilation (catch can setup) will diminish your oil consumption to some degree, and help the rings seal better. The oil consumption you are describing is beyond what a catch can alone will fix. Sounds like valve stem seals are causing a problem also.
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting, I've never heard that before. Every builder I've ever talked to has said to break a motor in hard to seat the rings properly.
I broke my all-motor setup in easy for the first 500mi as per my engine builder/tuner. The second 500mi involved using VTEC and occasional acceleration bursts, to 1000mi. Breaking the engine in easy produces an engine that will not reach peak HP as quickly, but will sustain maximum HP longer (road course use). This is exactly the way my engine turned out after Dyno tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting, I've never heard that before. Every builder I've ever talked to has said to break a motor in hard to seat the rings properly.
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