Please help me out guys. I know EVERYONE and there mother has heard about Ls/Vtec turbo. But im trying to get out the box.
I have


b16a head, race p+p. valve seats cuts flowing bout 380 CFM
b18c6 (ITR) block
ITR pistons
ITR rods
89mm forged crank
No AC
No power steering

Buddy club 4 camshafts
supertech valve train

Bolt-ons
Aem V-2 cold air intake
Skunk 2 intake manifold
preulude 345 injectors
DC sports 4-2-1 headers
walboro fuel pump 255

Engine has been full rebuilt too, arp headbolts studs, etc.

Now my compression on this is about 12.5.1 and i am already USING a thicker HEADGASKET so as u can figure clearances are already very tight.


Im wanting to run 100 150shot, and also planning to get a set of colder plugs. will 7 be enuff|?
though im not quite sure how safe this will be... ?
Im going to richen the a/f ratio and also retard the timing when i use Nitrous, h many degrees i dnt know any recomendations..|
and have a seperate map but still not sure how safe this will be?
and how safe will it be if i dont retard timing ?
I will be controlling the nitrous with a progressive controller. iam running 94 ron fuel.

so if u run this how effective will it be ?
wud running this shot direct port be safer??

 

well.........

are you planning on running a wet shot? Lets assume you are.......... you should drop the plugs a step if not 2. and if you already for some reason dont have a fuel pressure regulator, get one. and as for performance you will like what you will recieve. I know for a 75 dry shot youre supposed to retard timing 2degrees, but im sure you can find it on the internet, & it should tell you what to do when you buy the kit, your car will prolly run like **** if you dont retard the timing and blast it with 150+ extra ponies. ALSO: if your gunna run the Nitrous make sure your gastank has nothing below 93 octane in it, cuz ive heard of some wierd **** happening B4 from people that tried to spray it on a full tank of 89.

just make sure you dont run over a 50lb. Armadillo @ 100+mph and kill yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR pistons
ITR rods</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are they forged? If not, forget about it...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im going to richen the a/f ratio and also retard the timing when i use Nitrous, h many degrees i dnt know any recomendations..|
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd go like 4-6 degrees. I'm doing a 75 shot on my D-series with a 3 degree retard.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and how safe will it be if i dont retard timing ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you like a big, hot, expensive paper weight?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wud running this shot direct port be safer??

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't believe you'd even consider running a 100-150 shot without it!

The only way you'll ever get away with a single fogger running a 100 shot reliably is using Hondata or something similar to control fuel through larger than stock injectors. Use a dry shot and supply extra fuel through the injectors. Extensive tuning required though and still not really recomended.

 

BTW: When I start to spray, I'm running 116 racing gas just to ward off detonation.

With the comp you have, you should DEFINATELY be running race gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by d357r0y »
Tippyman knows what he's talking about!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^^^
WERD!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_R_X_V_T_E_C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just make sure you dont run over a 50lb. Armadillo @ 100+mph and kill yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL WTF?!

 

no they are not forged, they are oem,

its a wet shot and i will be using an autronic so can use that to map it. coz the car will be for street use i cant really use race fuel.

suppose 50-75 shot will be alot safer, i can use a progrssive controller and map it on the autrnic aswell...

at this size of a shot will i need to consider direct port?

many thx

 

At 50-75, a single fogger will work fine. You may want to check the limit of those rods though.

 

thanks for that bud...

if u had to go bout setting a 75 wet single fogger shot on my set up.. wat wud YOU change.|


how much retard? which spark plugs (using 6 atm), how wud u feed the nitrous threw management? etc...

really dnt knw the limits of the rods....guess ill do some searching...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for that bud...

if u had to go bout setting a 75 wet single fogger shot on my set up.. wat wud u change.|


how much retard? which spark plugs (using 6 atm), how wud u feed the nitrous threw management? etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm doing a 75 Wet shot on my SOHC. Here's my plans:

- Walbro 190 lph fuel pump. ($79)
- NGK two step colder plugs.($18)
- WSD Window Switch to cut off nitrous before redline. ($89)
- Replace headgasket with 3 layer metal Z6 headgasket ($60) and ARP headstuds. ($110)
- Replace T-belt, Water Pump, and Tensioner while I'm at it... ($145)
- Run a PG7 ECU to make the car run richer.
- Retard timing 3 degrees.
- Run 116 Sunoco race gas when spraying, to ward off detonation.

 

D16A6 rods are limited to about 200 hp. So considering my engine (SOHC ZC) is rated at 118 HP and i'm spraying a 75 shot I should be ok assuming I don't run lean.

Hence the extensive fuel upgrades. Technically, getting a chipped ECU and getting tuned would be the real way to go but I am broke. I probably won't be lean, so I'll be prefectly safe, but when I get on the dyno, i'm sure i'll be running super rich. That's ok with me.

 

i am very worried about my rods, as i bought them second hand dont really know the use on them :S

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikkey1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am very worried about my rods, as i bought them second hand dont really know the use on them :S</TD></TR></TABLE>

If they are not forged, I'd be worried too. Get some aftermarket forged rods. They are pretty damn impossible to hurt with too much boost or nitrous. Something else, like your pistons or rings, will fail first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D16A6 rods are limited to about 200 hp.</TD></TR></TABLE> On this note, Yes you can run well over 200whp on stock internals on a D-Series but a couple factors come into play.

1) Boost is a controlled ramp up to max output, it just doesn't spike all of a sudden.
2) Nitrous creates a massive torque spike which likes to find weaknesses in the system.
3) The tune is key!

I just wanted to leave this out there so we keep the keep it under 200 myth at bay.

 

i ran a 100 shot on a stock block b16a. ran awesome. 11.4 @ 118. single fogger wet kit. if you run a wet kit, there is no need for manangement, because it supplies its own fuel. but ya, retard your timing 1 dgree for every 25hp shot, usually a good rule of thumb

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> On this note, Yes you can run well over 200whp on stock internals on a D-Series but a couple factors come into play.

1) Boost is a controlled ramp up to max output, it just doesn't spike all of a sudden.
2) Nitrous creates a massive torque spike which likes to find weaknesses in the system.
3) The tune is key!

I just wanted to leave this out there so we keep the keep it under 200 myth at bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, the higher RPM, the easier nitrous is on the engine. However, too high of an RPM (way past stock) puts too much stress on them.

Good info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran a 100 shot on a stock block b16a. ran awesome. 11.4 @ 118. single fogger wet kit. if you run a wet kit, there is no need for manangement, because it supplies its own fuel. but ya, retard your timing 1 dgree for every 25hp shot, usually a good rule of thumb</TD></TR></TABLE>

You still need fuel upgrades for that big of a shot dude. Stock EF fuel pumps won't like that... Did you have one? if not, I am curious to see what your A/F ratio was.

 

[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran a 100 shot on a stock block b16a. ran awesome. 11.4 @ 118. single fogger wet kit. if you run a wet kit, there is no need for manangement, because it supplies its own fuel. but ya, retard your timing 1 dgree for every 25hp shot, usually a good rule of thumb</TD></TR></TABLE>
spraying out the hole?

 

yes, spraying out of the hole. yes you may need fuel upgrades, but not necessarilly management, although not a bad idea. i did have a 255 walboro. but i have ran a 100 shot on a z6, stock pump, but 270cc inj, regulator, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, the higher RPM, the easier nitrous is on the engine. However, too high of an RPM (way past stock) puts too much stress on them.

Good info. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You still need fuel upgrades for that big of a shot dude. Stock EF fuel pumps won't like that... Did you have one? if not, I am curious to see what your A/F ratio was.</TD></TR></TABLE> For a shot like that the fuel pressure to your rail is giong to start dropping, and that's where the danger kicks in. A proper nitrous setup for those shots kissing 100+ would preferably look like so --&gt;