Well I have heard many people say NOT to put a switch in, but when they say that they dont say why...

Ive also had people tell me that if i installed a switch i could kick my vtec in alot earlier, so the better to my advantage....

But what I am really trying to figure out is if its a bad thing to hook up a switch and if so then why...

And if i were to hook up the switch how would I do it?

 

u need to understand how vtec works. that my guess, cause it can't just be turned on by a switch. once the ecu engages vtec, more fuel is also add, if u use a switch u just open the valves all the way u didn't add any fuel, there for no extra fuel, no extra power. it might sound louder but little power. if u want vtec to engage sooner chip the ecu. but then again if it was most effective for vtec to engage sooner than honda would have done it. so just leave it be.

 

the manufacturer made sure that vtec kicked in at the right rpm, the reason why it is not good to make vtec kick in is because the car is not ready to do so fuel wise, so when your valves are opening and closing in vtec the right amount of fuel is not there, causing you to run lean..if you want to do something do it right, get a chipped ecu and have a reason for vtec to kick in early..

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...earch=
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Technical/VTEC.htm


so having the vtec engage is only detrimental in the sense that more time is spent at a more agressive stage, the reason this is related to intake problems is because the intake system is working harder than normal now, thus producing more heat, and feeding hotter air, which reduces the burn efficieny.

so to summarize your problem, you should leave the vtec engage points alone if you drive agreesivley for prolonged amounts of time.

it's safe to lower the engage point with a remapped ecu if you spend a short amount of time at the top of your rev range, and then let your engine cool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghost_ryder35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*technical stuff* </TD></TR></TABLE>
Regardless of issues pertaining to when VTEC should be engaged if you don't have your ecu tuned for the altered engagement point you are hurting your motor, not making more power, and wasting your time...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob_760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Regardless of issues pertaining to when VTEC should be engaged if you don't have your ecu tuned for the altered engagement point you are hurting your motor, not making more power, and wasting your time...</TD></TR></TABLE>

ur wasting ur time. if u ever change timing, feul, maps, lsvtec where its stock or not u must tune the car inorder to get the best output of power. ur probly running lean which can hurt it but not enough to do to much damage. but ur loosing power. and changing vtec engage points with stock cams is pointless. when vtec engages u'll just lose power. it might seem faster or u think its faster it's mostly not. honda designed vtec to save gas and have power when u need it, so any thing below what the cams are designed for is just pointless. if u engage vtec at to low of an rmp and the cams are designed to fall into vtec a 4800 or 5200 rpms what do u think will happen. its like jumping on to a moving tread mill u'll just stomble around intell ur legs can catch up to speed. ur don't have the power burst into a 20 mph run in a split sec. but u'll try..... ur making ur motor do the same.

 

I wouldnt do it. Best thing to do is to go ahead and just spend the money on a VAFC or a rechip'd ECU.

 

People overlook the fact that VTEC is more then 12V. It's a set of timing maps and fuel maps that the engine must get to produce the proper power with air to fuel/timing ratios. God, if you are gonna hook it up to a switch, hang yourself, and I'm serious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Global688 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt do it. Best thing to do is to go ahead and just spend the money on a VAFC or a rechip'd ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

never! Vafc no,no. its one of the worse tuning devises out there. the only time there good is if u have a dyno. u push buttons and change the fuel +5 whats +5 mean %, psi. there's nothing out there better than a ecu, u can chip an ecu for the cost of a vafc and the ecu use all the info of the senors. vafc is only good for the tps, 12v, vaccum, ect meters. there a waste of money, and very over priced. a chip kit is like 20 bucks go dyno tuned is 150$ way better than a vafc well ever be. and if the battery died u don't have to reset every thing.

 

good deal, it wont be done, its not that i wanted to hook up the switch i just want to make sure that im getting the best out of my engine, and im not really sure if the b16 i have is running like a b16 should

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People overlook the fact that VTEC is more then 12V. It's a set of timing maps and fuel maps that the engine must get to produce the proper power with air to fuel/timing ratios. God, if you are gonna hook it up to a switch, hang yourself, and I'm serious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2.