I just bought a 90 CRX with a B16a for my son last week. We took it to an 1/8 mile track last night and this was the best pass: 2.42 sixty ft , 10.38@69.2 mph. I am no stranger to racing, I havs a LS1 Camaro that runs high 6's in the 1/8 and high 10's in the 1/4. I just dont know much about Hondas yet. I was expecting this car to atleast run mid 9's.

The guy I got the car from says it has JE 11:1 pistons in it and the owner before him had a turbo on it. Didnt make sense to me. It has a DC header, some kind of exhaust, cold air. The computer says Erics Racing Engines on it. It has an air/fuel gauge and it shows rich most of time, the spark plugs look good though. I think one problem is the tranny, it seems to be long geared. Shift into 2nd almost at 1/2 track and hit 3rd at the finish line.

Could the computer be tuned for a turbo set up maybe?

What tranny(cable clutch) should I switch to?

I'm going to check the compression this week, what else should I look into?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DMcRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought a 90 CRX with a B16a for my son last week. We took it to an 1/8 mile track last night and this was the best pass: 2.42 sixty ft , 10.38@69.2 mph. I am no stranger to racing, I havs a LS1 Camaro that runs high 6's in the 1/8 and high 10's in the 1/4. I just dont know much about Hondas yet. I was expecting this car to atleast run mid 9's.

The guy I got the car from says it has JE 11:1 pistons in it and the owner before him had a turbo on it. Didnt make sense to me. It has a DC header, some kind of exhaust, cold air. The computer says Erics Racing Engines on it. It has an air/fuel gauge and it shows rich most of time, the spark plugs look good though. I think one problem is the tranny, it seems to be long geared. Shift into 2nd almost at 1/2 track and hit 3rd at the finish line.

Could the computer be tuned for a turbo set up maybe?

What tranny(cable clutch) should I switch to?

I'm going to check the compression this week, what else should I look into? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Well the 60ft could be better thats hurting the time , and your a/f guage is probably a narrowband o2 which isnt accurate . theres a sticker on the ecu with numbers and letter i forget how many but in the center it will say p?? (pr4 pr3 , p72 something like that) sorry im not sure of the vtec ecus that will help us a little .

It is possible to have been boosted on 11.5/1 compression , it might need to be retuned . Do you know if the ecu is chipped like hondata or uberdata or turboedit if your are running obd0

also if its obd-0 the ecu with have a small clear circle on the from of it that has a led light behind it for showing you a code if there is a problem there will be a series of blinks

As far as the tranny you might have an ls transmission there should be a sticker on the case facing the front of the car it will say something like ys1 , j1,s1, ect...


Also what trim model crx is it dx.hf, si if you dont know does it have a sunroof?
the si's are the heaviest and have sunroofs. and 4 wheel disk brakes


with just regular average tires you should be able to pull 2.3 or high 2.2 60ft .

also if you have stock cams with that high of compression thats not helping either .

that does seem a little slow for that car , you should atleast be seein high 9's or 10 flat . hope this helped you a little goodluck

 

The computer has no label with a P#. Just says Ericks racing engines and gives a phone#. It does have the glass and its not flashing any codes. I have no idea what kind of tuning it has.

The tranny label starts off with A1.

It is an SI. It does have a carbon fiber hood, no spare or jack.

The guy I git it from said something about cams or cam gears, but I dont think he really knows. The owner before him put it together.

 

here a link with most of the b series transmissions and specs
http://www.allmotorhonda.com/t...s.htm

it doesnt list the a1 but im 99.9 percent sure that is a ls transmission from an integra , which isnt the best geared transmission for a b16 , because of the longer gears and lack of tq from the b16 .

thats one reason why you are seeing slower times .

its obd0 first gen b16 that you have , for tuning you can look into turbo edit or convert to obd1 then there are many programs . it might have a dent tune already

but that transmission is def. slowing you down . You have alot of options , it just depends on what you want to do .

you could just swap out the transmission for a shorter geared b16 tranny , or pick a b18a/b block which is a non vtec integra motor but more displacment and use your b16 vtec head and have a ls/vtec search lsvtec to learn more about that and how to do it , and you your currrent transmission .
or use the b16 tranny whith lsvtec or even better results . there is much more
welcome to honda lol .
Everything you need to know is on this site somewhere .

 

This is the full label on my tranny A1 1025889.

Thanks for the welcome, and the info.

 

Just done a compression check. The first thing I noticed was all the plugs are black. They looked fine the day after I got the car, must have been a fresh set. That leads me to believe that the A/F gauge is somewhat correct when showing rich pretty much all the time.
Cylinders read 200, 200, 200, 180. Dropped a little oil in the 180 and it jumped to 225.

Found the label on the computer, its a pr3.

Also looked at some of the info the guy I got the car from had sent, he says it has Skunk2 cams. I'm not sure if he really knows.

 

with the narrow bands o2's the light on the gauge is usaully always moving around back and forth at idle or at a constant rpm or atleast the ones i have seen the wideband o2's usaully stay put and only change if there going to when rpm changes .hopefully this helps ya out figuring out which one you have . but if your running that rich then yes you probably need a tune .

As far as the cams try to figure out which set of the s2's you have and hopefully someone else chimes in bc im not familar with vtec cams

your compression results it looks like the rings arent in the best of health in that cylinder usaully i think the most difference you want to see between cylinder is 10-15 and 15 is really pushing it .

also your 200 seems a little low for 11.5/1 compression but it also depends on the overlap of the valves . the most important thing is the conistantcy between the cylinder but i still couldnt help but notice .
Did you pull the ecu fuse and test at full throttle ??

Hopefully someone else decides to try to help out also incase i am missing something . anyway goodluck and hope this helps .

 

The A/F stays rich untill you let out to shift, then it goes lean for second and right back to rich.


I warmed the motor up, pulled all the plugs, unpluged the distributer plug, and tested each cylinder. Not at WOT.


I was told it had 11:1 not 11.5:1. I figered the other 3 would have jumped to 225 also with a little oil.

I'm sure the 180# cylinder is weak, but its not dead.

I guess I need to start researching what it takes to tune .

 

that motor isnt dead by any means, im running mid 12s now with 115psi in my #2 cylinder.

pr3 is the b16 computer and no codes is a good thing.

try lowering the tire pressure to around 20 and maybe heat them up a bit. vtec hondas have to launch at higher rpms and keep the revs up. the long tranny isnt helping much either id think.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elrandeeto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your compression results it looks like the rings arent in the best of health in that cylinder usaully i think the most difference you want to see between cylinder is 10-15 and 15 is really pushing it .</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you can go somehwere up to 20-30% variance between cylinders as per the manual. not 10-15psi.

you can always do a leakdown, because the slightly lower compression due to valve overlap is a possible situation with the larger cams

 

I dropped the psi down to 25. I think we were just launching at too low of an RPM. It would kind of lunge, buck, then go.

The guy I got the car from said something about it had injecters from a different car in it and that was making it rich. Should I try to find some stock B16 injecters or just look into tuning?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that motor isnt dead by any means, im running mid 12s now with 115psi in my #2 cylinder.

pr3 is the b16 computer and no codes is a good thing.

try lowering the tire pressure to around 20 and maybe heat them up a bit. vtec hondas have to launch at higher rpms and keep the revs up. the long tranny isnt helping much either id think.


i think you can go somehwere up to 20-30% variance between cylinders as per the manual. not 10-15psi.

you can always do a leakdown, because the slightly lower compression due to valve overlap is a possible situation with the larger cams</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks for the correction i was hoping someone else would also help him out incase some of my info was wrong