I've been making 3'' downpipes on the 2.5'' outlet, T3/T4 Garret turbine, but the pipe runs close to the bolt hole, making it tough fitting a normal size bolt in there. Is there a better way to make a bolt fit in there without sacrificing the size or punching it in with a brass punch?

 

that will be hard, I was thinking that a set screw might work, try to tap both of the flange holes and find the correct set screw which will allow you to use an allen key to loosen/tighten it. It might work but I wouldn't guarantee it'll hold up since it doesn't really have any type of reinforcement besides the threads, but it should hold up fine at least.

 

i see that is a jig yuo are working off. lets see the manifold it is set up for

 

lol, it's no fancy tubular. Just a standard log manifold, here's the only two pics i can find.

 

This may not help and you may have thought of it already but why dont you use a transition instead of welding the 3" directly to the flange ? If you use the transistion you will be able to fit the bolts without any problems. Good luck

 

form the tube to make clearance for the nuts. and stud the turbo.

 

"12.9"

cap screws > hex head screws. Period.

my manifold, wastegate and turbo are all held togeter by cap screws.

I converted everything to cap screws not because of the head profile (which is a bonus) but because I to take my bumper off just to take my wastegate off.

A set of quality ball end alan keys and cap screws will make your life easier (unless your stupid and buy shitty alan keys). I really should take some pictures to explain why and to show a couple of tricks to getting at hard-to-reach areas. Wrenches are old-school.

 

It has to clear an alternator, so a transition wouldn't give me the clearance i need. The only way to make the downpipe fit is to use a 105 degree bend right off of the turbo.

 

That'd be great after all pictures are worth a 1000 words. Any idea of where I can find cap screws locally? Someone else mentioned cutting the outside of the flange on the bolt hole so you can slide a screw in, I'm not to sure if thats a good idea though.

 

yellow pages - look for 'fasteners'.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboSI56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That'd be great after all pictures are worth a 1000 words. Any idea of where I can find cap screws locally? Someone else mentioned cutting the outside of the flange on the bolt hole so you can slide a screw in, I'm not to sure if thats a good idea though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Copper State has any type of fastener you can imagine.

There is one on Peoria between 75th and 83rd ave. There's one on 35th ave. between Indian School and Thomas. There is another one on Broadway and 40th street. They probably have more branches, but I only know of these three.

Good luck,

Soroush

 

cool, pulling through once again lol. Thanks I'll look into it on monday morning

 

if your in a pinch, home depot sells them. they have limited sizes though and arent the 12.9 grade bolts pictured above. they are for a downpipe, they dont need to be that strong. lol

 

A crescent wrench and some elbow grease and you're good..this is the best pic I have uploaded...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your in a pinch, home depot sells them. they have limited sizes though and arent the 12.9 grade bolts pictured above. they are for a downpipe, they dont need to be that strong. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

you wont "lol" if you strip one.

crescent wrenches are for hammering, not turbocharging!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you wont "lol" if you strip one.

crescent wrenches are for hammering, not turbocharging! </TD></TR></TABLE>

chase the threads of the bolt hole with a tap before you put the bolt in, and use copper anti-sieze. i have yet to have a problem with a bolt after doing that, ever. if it wont go all the way in when using you fingers to tighten, theres something wrong.

with the correct **** you wont " strip" bolts.

 

I ment stripping the head of the bolt, not the threads. especially if you get the 'low head' style with the smaller key hole. If you're going to tighten to spec with a missaligned ball end you're going to want good grade bolts.. IMO it would be foolish if the only 'home depot grade' fasteners on your Honda were used for your Turbo setup.

also, telling someone who strips bolts to 'chase threads with a tap' can be risky. however, it is a great tip.

edited for peace and stability in the middle east.


Modified by 2point2 at 3:35 PM 10/1/2006


Modified by 2point2 at 3:35 PM 10/1/2006