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H22A4 TBelt and ManTensioner install squeal?

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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 07:48 AM
  #1  
00BaseRacer's Avatar
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From: Blenheim, SC, USofA
Default H22A4 TBelt and ManTensioner install squeal?

Just finished the install last night and had a question. I have a slight(meaning noticable but not very loud) squeal or whine especially around 1krpm since installing timing belt and doing the manual tensioner conversion. I followed a tutorial that showed the parts required at the top and it had pictures of the process step-by-step. I made sure that the tensioner for the tbelt and balance shaft belt were not touching. The timing belt was a little tight to get on and we set just a bit more tension on it before locking it down with the 10mm adjusting nut. Then set the tension on the balbelt and locked down the main nut that projects through the lower cover. Just wanted to know from those that have done this if this noise is to be expected? Is it that the belts will wear in and the noise will go away? I decided to pull the engine and trans because I needed to install a new clutch and lightweight flywheel. So I had plenty of room to work on the front of the engine and made sure I did the conversion properly. Thanks, Wj
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 07:54 AM
  #2  
MadCityLude
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Default Re: H22A4 TBelt and ManTensioner install squeal? (00BaseRacer)

How tight is the belt? It shouldn't be set too tight. If it is it can squeal, also that adds extra wear to the belt if it is too tight.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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Default Re: H22A4 TBelt and ManTensioner install squeal? (LudeFanatic)

I could twist the belt about 90 degrees on the long side(crank to lh cam) and short side(rh cam to wp). I don't think I got it too tight. Thanks, Wj
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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Default Re: H22A4 TBelt and ManTensioner install squeal? (00BaseRacer)

Nevermind, did a few more searches and found it barried in the archives. The tbelt must be too tight. Thanks, Wj
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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Default

Are you sure it's not your other belts being too tight?
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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From: storrs, CT, 06850
Default Re: (prelewd)

I just literally did the exact same procedure on my car. My question is have you put on a little bolt on the top of the bracket that bolts up instead of the auto tensioner. Does this bolt have to go throught the little arm on the left of the manual tensioner? I am asking this becasue the tensioner is being held tight by the spring only and the tension on the big bolt that goes throught both of the pulleys. My enginei s still out of the car and i want to get it right the first time. Also how hard was it to get the tranny input shaft to slide into the clutch and flywheel? i spent about 5 hours with my buddy under the car jiggling the tranny trying to get it to go in and we werent able to do it. Now im left with taking public transportation to school.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Default Re: (Eucalyptus lude)

Well, I used the adjuster lockdown(2-bolt bracket to the left of the tens pulley) and now wish I had not. I think it would be best to just use the tension caused by the spring otherwise you will not be able to loosen/tighten the tension unless you remove the front covers . I did not have too much trouble lining them up cause I had both out at the same time. I replaced the clutch with an Exedy stg1 and Act streetlite flywheel so I think it was easier to pull both at the same time, R&R, bolt back together and stuff them back in. It only took a few stabs to get the input shaft through. Sorry to hear bout your problems, Wj

ps. Check your CVaxles while you have them out, my pass side boot split to helll last night not 48hrs after having reinstalled it so now I am going to get new axles for both sides.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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Default Re: (00BaseRacer)

Does anyone have that tool that they show in the manuals that measure the belt tension ? I think it would make life easier sometimes so u could check it real quick instead of messing with it without even knowing if thats your actual problem.
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