New Alarm Install... Car Troubles (96 Civic), help please
I just installed a compustar alarm (basic 1 way AM one).
I am having several issues
- driver's door lock won't lock (was never able to lock with the power lock switch), the passenger door lock works fine with the alarm and the power door lock switch
- dome light no longer work, using the stock deck
# i connected the door trigger (-) [light green/red] to the door trigger wire
- windsheild wiper does not fully work, if I turn the lever once to have intermittent wipes, it does not work. Continuous wipe and single wipe is okay!
My main concern is #1, the power door lock switch will not lock the driver's door lock. it will unlock fine.
I am having several issues
- driver's door lock won't lock (was never able to lock with the power lock switch), the passenger door lock works fine with the alarm and the power door lock switch
- dome light no longer work, using the stock deck
# i connected the door trigger (-) [light green/red] to the door trigger wire
- windsheild wiper does not fully work, if I turn the lever once to have intermittent wipes, it does not work. Continuous wipe and single wipe is okay!
My main concern is #1, the power door lock switch will not lock the driver's door lock. it will unlock fine.
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key lock and unlock the pass door?
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the mechanical switch lock and unlock the pass door?
Where did you connect the the Compustars door lock wires, [should be right if pass door lock works]?
It looks like you have a problem with the "Power Door Lock Control Unit" the drivers door lock motor has a separate control lead, [one of them, the other is common to both/all doors].
If you have a multimeter I can tell you how to test the system.
BTW, intermittent wipers are controlled by the "ICU" as is dome light when drivers door is opened, ground from drivers door switch goes to "ICU", the "ICU" sends a ground, along with the other door(s) to the "Keyless Reciever Unit" in the stock HU, that controls the dome light.
Where did you make the door trigger connection to the light green/red lead?
94
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the mechanical switch lock and unlock the pass door?
Where did you connect the the Compustars door lock wires, [should be right if pass door lock works]?
It looks like you have a problem with the "Power Door Lock Control Unit" the drivers door lock motor has a separate control lead, [one of them, the other is common to both/all doors].
If you have a multimeter I can tell you how to test the system.
BTW, intermittent wipers are controlled by the "ICU" as is dome light when drivers door is opened, ground from drivers door switch goes to "ICU", the "ICU" sends a ground, along with the other door(s) to the "Keyless Reciever Unit" in the stock HU, that controls the dome light.
Where did you make the door trigger connection to the light green/red lead?
94
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key lock and unlock the pass door?
Using key for...
Driver Side:
- Locks both sides
- Unlocks driver's door
Passenger Side:
- Locks passenger door
- Unlocks passenger dor
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the mechanical switch lock and unlock the pass door?
Yes, using the mechanical switch on the driver's door, it locks and unlocks the passenger door perfectly.
Where did you connect the the Compustars door lock wires, [should be right if pass door lock works]?
I connected them at the driver's kick panel. They were already connected before, I double checked the wire colours and it matched so I connected them.
It looks like you have a problem with the "Power Door Lock Control Unit" the drivers door lock motor has a separate control lead, [one of them, the other is common to both/all doors].
If you have a multimeter I can tell you how to test the system.
How do I test it?
BTW, intermittent wipers are controlled by the "ICU" as is dome light when drivers door is opened, ground from drivers door switch goes to "ICU", the "ICU" sends a ground, along with the other door(s) to the "Keyless Reciever Unit" in the stock HU, that controls the dome light.
What does this mean then?
Where did you make the door trigger connection to the light green/red lead?
Above the fuse panel... there are two light green/red wires and they both have continuity to each other, and to the radio connector, so I just picked one above the fuse panel.
I removed the door trigger connector and still the same thing. Did I short something out?
Modified by Azxster at 8:48 AM 10/1/2006
Using key for...
Driver Side:
- Locks both sides
- Unlocks driver's door
Passenger Side:
- Locks passenger door
- Unlocks passenger dor
Does locking and unlocking the drivers door with the mechanical switch lock and unlock the pass door?
Yes, using the mechanical switch on the driver's door, it locks and unlocks the passenger door perfectly.
Where did you connect the the Compustars door lock wires, [should be right if pass door lock works]?
I connected them at the driver's kick panel. They were already connected before, I double checked the wire colours and it matched so I connected them.
It looks like you have a problem with the "Power Door Lock Control Unit" the drivers door lock motor has a separate control lead, [one of them, the other is common to both/all doors].
If you have a multimeter I can tell you how to test the system.
How do I test it?
BTW, intermittent wipers are controlled by the "ICU" as is dome light when drivers door is opened, ground from drivers door switch goes to "ICU", the "ICU" sends a ground, along with the other door(s) to the "Keyless Reciever Unit" in the stock HU, that controls the dome light.
What does this mean then?
Where did you make the door trigger connection to the light green/red lead?
Above the fuse panel... there are two light green/red wires and they both have continuity to each other, and to the radio connector, so I just picked one above the fuse panel.
I removed the door trigger connector and still the same thing. Did I short something out?
Modified by Azxster at 8:48 AM 10/1/2006
Try "unlocking" 2 times with the key in drivers door, turn key to unlock, [drivers door unlocks] then without locking it again, turn key to unlock again.
Only the drivers door lock actuator has a switch in it and only the drivers door key lock has a switch, locking/unlocking the pass. door will only lock and unlock pass door.
The "ICU", [Integrated Control Unit] controls more then a few things in your car, intermittent wipers for one, it also turns on wipers if you just spray washer fluid, without turning wipers on, it also isolates drivers door pin switch, from the pass., [and rear doors] so only the drivers door triggers the warning chimes, [lights still on, key still in ign. seat belt warning chime] the ICU also controls the chimes, the rear window defog relay, [timer] The ICU may be the problem why the intermittent wipers do not work.
I do not think you shorted anything out, the door trigger input is diode protected. the worst that could happen if you connected to the wrong wire is alarm would not work when opening the doors, or only the drivers door triggers the alarm, [connected to wrong side of ICU].
To test "Power Door Lock Control Unit"s outputs, you can do it at the control unit or at the drivers door lock actuator, there are 4 wires at the drivers door actuator, [2 at the pass. door actuator], the black and blue/white are for the switch, we know switch works so ignore them, the white/red wire is common to all door lock actuators the blue/red, [yellow/red on actuator side of plug] is specific to drivers door actuator, when testing both wires will show a ground, [when switches are at "rest"] when you rock the door lock switch for lock or unlock the ground is "lifted" from one of the wires and 12V+ is supplied, when locking the white/red wire should stay at ground and the blue/red should change from ground to 12V+, [for about 1 sec.] door should lock, and as the white/red is common to all actuators, and the pass door locks, I would assume that it has a ground, leaving the only other possibility being that the "PDLCU" is not lifting the ground and supplying the 12V+ to the blue/red lead but is lifting the ground and supplying the 12V+ to the yellow/red lead, [lock output from "PDLCU" to pass. door(s)].
94
PS.. the other possibility is that the drivers door lock actuator is defective, ["dead" spot when unlocked]
Only the drivers door lock actuator has a switch in it and only the drivers door key lock has a switch, locking/unlocking the pass. door will only lock and unlock pass door.
The "ICU", [Integrated Control Unit] controls more then a few things in your car, intermittent wipers for one, it also turns on wipers if you just spray washer fluid, without turning wipers on, it also isolates drivers door pin switch, from the pass., [and rear doors] so only the drivers door triggers the warning chimes, [lights still on, key still in ign. seat belt warning chime] the ICU also controls the chimes, the rear window defog relay, [timer] The ICU may be the problem why the intermittent wipers do not work.
I do not think you shorted anything out, the door trigger input is diode protected. the worst that could happen if you connected to the wrong wire is alarm would not work when opening the doors, or only the drivers door triggers the alarm, [connected to wrong side of ICU].
To test "Power Door Lock Control Unit"s outputs, you can do it at the control unit or at the drivers door lock actuator, there are 4 wires at the drivers door actuator, [2 at the pass. door actuator], the black and blue/white are for the switch, we know switch works so ignore them, the white/red wire is common to all door lock actuators the blue/red, [yellow/red on actuator side of plug] is specific to drivers door actuator, when testing both wires will show a ground, [when switches are at "rest"] when you rock the door lock switch for lock or unlock the ground is "lifted" from one of the wires and 12V+ is supplied, when locking the white/red wire should stay at ground and the blue/red should change from ground to 12V+, [for about 1 sec.] door should lock, and as the white/red is common to all actuators, and the pass door locks, I would assume that it has a ground, leaving the only other possibility being that the "PDLCU" is not lifting the ground and supplying the 12V+ to the blue/red lead but is lifting the ground and supplying the 12V+ to the yellow/red lead, [lock output from "PDLCU" to pass. door(s)].
94PS.. the other possibility is that the drivers door lock actuator is defective, ["dead" spot when unlocked]
I tried to unlock 2 times with the key in the driver's door, but it does not unlock the passenger door. What does this mean? Is it the motor/key lock assembly or the door lock actuator?
What do I do for the ICU? I will check the fuses for the ICU tomorrow.
So I should measure the two wires with the door lock switch (lock/unlock)?
White/Red is GND
Lock - Blue/Red is from GND to 12V for 1 second
If White/Red is indeed GND and Blue/Red is indeed GND to 12V, it means I have a defective door lock actuator. If Blue/Red is not lifted from GND to 12V, I have a dective PDLCU?
What do I do for the ICU? I will check the fuses for the ICU tomorrow.
So I should measure the two wires with the door lock switch (lock/unlock)?
White/Red is GND
Lock - Blue/Red is from GND to 12V for 1 second
If White/Red is indeed GND and Blue/Red is indeed GND to 12V, it means I have a defective door lock actuator. If Blue/Red is not lifted from GND to 12V, I have a dective PDLCU?
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