code on block reads DCBBC
ok after some reading and research this is what I gathered


*oh yeah almost forgot...Speaking from the pulley side of the crank...in between the 2nd connecting rod journal and the 3rd main journal....there is a "4" stamped on the rough part of crank

so basically im thinking that for whatever LETTER there is without a number following it....then you assume the number is 1.
so for the pulley end the first main journal code is b2....so would that mean yellow
and the second journal code from the pulley side says 2...so would i also assume that if it doesnt have a letter with the number then its A...if so then that would mean pink

Or am i way off.....all i want is to know what colours of bearings i need to buy...if someone can tell me that(even though 2 bearings of the same colour cost $60 according to honda) i will be happy as i just spent $130+ on the wrong connecting rod bearings and main bearings...damn i hope the generic z6 thrust bearings are atleast ok to use


Modified by mattie_96 at 11:23 PM 9/24/2006

 

You are WAY off... the letters on the block... is it DCBBC with D on the bottom (side closest to the crank)? or DCBBC with D on the top (side closest to the deck)?

 

the d is closer to the crank and the c to the deck

 

From #1 journal to #5 journal, you need the following:

Brown
Green
Yellow
Yellow
Green

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From #1 journal to #5 journal, you need the following:

Brown
Green
Yellow
Yellow
Green</TD></TR></TABLE>

According to the stamps, yes, but you'd be a fool not to plastigauge each journal and figure out what the tolerances are after having run the engine for so long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

According to the stamps, yes, but you'd be a fool not to plastigauge each journal and figure out what the tolerances are after having run the engine for so long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but in order to platigauge the engine, you need to order the new bearings and clean everything up first. This is the proper way.

 

thanks a million guys..i will purchase needed bearings

 

hey if it's not too late, here's a little something I wrote that might help you.

Link: http://6thgearadvertising.com/....html

I went through the same thing not too long ago with learning how to read the bearings. I have pictures that are labeled that should help to clear things up.

Only problem is that most of the bearings I needed were on "severe backorder" from honda or discontinued had to go with ACL's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teal_dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey if it's not too late, here's a little something I wrote that might help you.

Link: http://6thgearadvertising.com/....html

I went through the same thing not too long ago with learning how to read the bearings. I have pictures that are labeled that should help to clear things up.

Only problem is that most of the bearings I needed were on "severe backorder" from honda or discontinued had to go with ACL's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely nothing wrong with ACL's. I've used them many times in various applications for both my personal engines and other peoples engines. Never had a problem.

 

ok i read your site....nice right up...however it only appears helpful IF you noted what the colour was on the old bearings...which i didnt as i couldnt see any.
SO basically i have to start from scratch...but when you stated you got ACL bearings.....i got Taiho ones(altrum supplied) .....are the ACL bearings also in colours or are they like mine in all size fits all type? (or as someone stated...the equivalent to hondas green bearings)?

 

I should clarify, The reason I wanted OEM was because I don't have the tools to measure the crank to determine which ACL's to order. After Honda told me there was no way to get the OEM's, I dropped the stripped bottom end off at an engine shop because I didn't have the time or tools to do it myself. ACL's are proven bearings If I was doing it myself with plastigage, I would have liked to had OEM so I could have a piece of mind that my new bearings were as close to the correct size as possible.

I also recall ACL's being equivalent to hondas green bearings. The paint Dabs are really a biatch to see, I really had to look to find them. If you wrote on your bearings with a sharpie what order they were in, then you're not screwed. But if you have a pile of unmarked bearings next to your bottom end, then you just created a lot more work.... Always record where your bearings are when you dissassemble a motor, do it for the main crank and the rod bearings.

The main difference between ACL and OEM is OEM measures them in a single number + a color. ACL's must be measured in .0001 of an inch with very precise (and expensive) tools

 

ok cool well I figured out the bearing colours i need

D2-C2-B2-B2-C2
Brown-green-yellow-yellow-green

and for the connecting rod journals on the crank it states BBBC and considering the a6 rods im using on that Z6 crank being stamped 1,1,1,1

the conn. rod bearing colours are B1-B1-B1-C1
PINK-PINK-PINK-GREEN

however I dont know if i should go with the colour codes according to the old z6 connecting rods(3-3-2-2) or new a6 connecting rods(1-1-1-1) that are about to be resized to stock

 

I just got done rebuilding a D16Z6. It was real straight forward using the ACL bearings. What I did was assemble with plastigauge - take to machine shop grind crank - assemble with plastigauge - take to machine shop. After the 2nd trip my clearances were perfect.

Just my 2 cents get your parts machined and measured before purchase the of your parts. So you get the right size.

 

i guess thats an option..but honestly i think it would end up being slightly cheaper to get the right bearings than machining the crank