throttle body trouble after crower stage2 camshaft install?
alright well, on my h23, i just got stage 2 crower camshafts, springs/retainers, and skunk2 cam gears installed, and right before i had that done i had done a coolant throttle body bypass, but i didnt get the erratic idle fixed from that... soo after they finished installing the camshafts, and were about to tune my apexi AFC, apparently it keeps stalling on idle because its trying to dump fuel into it by running really rich, or something along those lines, the tuner said he had to put 13% fuel on idle just to try to keep it from stalling (it stalled on me like 4 times in an hour) ... and his explaination is that i needed the throttle body changed out, or that its my fuel pressure regulator.. i tried to explain to them about my throttle body bypass mod and that maybe that could be causing the problem because it explains to "block" or "disable" the fast idle valve .. but they denied it and said thats not the problem... anybody have any idea? or have had similar problems?
If you had a leak from the TB bypass, it would try to idle higher or it would bounce up and down...wouldn't make it stall out.
you cant adjust idle fuel with a vafc. A vafc only works in open loop (Wide Open Throttle).
Are you using stock injectors?
Were the cams degreed upon installation? Is the timing correct?
Are you using stock injectors?
Were the cams degreed upon installation? Is the timing correct?
yes the timing was correct, but apparently you can ADD fuel on idle (this is with an apexi AFC2), thats what he did, he added 13% on idle to help preventing it from idling because the idle control screw wouldn't work, he said when he tried to adjust it the screw just falls out.. anyways they swapped in a h22 throttle body today, and said my cars working great.. confuses the hell out of me because the throttle body was working fine before i had the cams put in
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weenie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">18-20 what?? how could changing the throttle body affect the af ratio?</TD></TR></TABLE>
bringing in more air would, in effect, make the a/f ratio leaner.
edit:
nvm, i thought he was referring to bigger tb
bringing in more air would, in effect, make the a/f ratio leaner.
edit:
nvm, i thought he was referring to bigger tb
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i really have no idea how the air/fuel ratio was getting up that high, but the jdm h22 throttle body seems to be working fine, my idle is correct and its not stalling anymore... tomorrow i tune and dyno, hopefully ill see some decent numbers because right now im kinda dissatisfied with the crower stage 2 cam, it seems ive lost power instead of gain =\ .. but thats probably because its untuned right now and we had zero'd the settings on the AFC2.
yea you're not going to feel a difference with stage 2 cams that are not tuned. First run i did was 147hp with stage 3's. I was running way too rich. If you get it tuned right you could end up with 165-175hp.
i WAS at 149whp/145wtq on my h23 before i put in the clutch/flywheel/coolant bypass mod/stage 2 cams .. after i have no idea yet, but tomorrow will tell
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dystro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really have no idea how the air/fuel ratio was getting up that high, but the jdm h22 throttle body seems to be working fine, my idle is correct and its not stalling anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably the TPS on the other throttle body wasn't adjusted right or it was broken.
Probably the TPS on the other throttle body wasn't adjusted right or it was broken.
Probably, they had to put in a jdm h22 throttle body, and a jdm idle control valve, i guess my other one was broken, he said you couldn't adjust the screw it'd just fall out.
cams are not bolt ons and require more than fuel tuning to maximize.
I suggest you start looking for a better tuning solution because an afc sucks ***
I suggest you start looking for a better tuning solution because an afc sucks ***
i asked them about maybe installing a hondata, and the guy said what i have right now is efficient for the mods i have, (i/h/e/flywheel/clutch/cams/afc2)
find yourself a new tuner
you need the ability to individually tune fuel and ignition at multiple loads/rpm's for a tune to be efficient.
who is this shop?
you need the ability to individually tune fuel and ignition at multiple loads/rpm's for a tune to be efficient.
who is this shop?
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