95 coupe speaker???
Okay so i kinda look around the threads first before this post...so anyways my deal is I'm trying to install some 6 1/2 pioneer (think that's right) speakers they are the 260 wts....anyways I took off my door panel and tried to installed them but without some kind of adaptor I can't screw it to the door but yet it's touching my window/glass...and with the OEM speakers out and adaptor still in the holes from speakers don't match up with holes from adaptor as well but the new speakers are too deep so it still stand out...any help on will be great...
also read on a few threads don't know if it matters or not but my coupe is a canadian coupe and some threads said the 6 1/2 might be a tad too big is this right? Do I have right speakers than? ANyways any help would be great
also read on a few threads don't know if it matters or not but my coupe is a canadian coupe and some threads said the 6 1/2 might be a tad too big is this right? Do I have right speakers than? ANyways any help would be great
well i'm not sure but I don't think they are oversize 6 1/2 anyways on the box i guess the model number is a TS-A1681R if that's the model number and it says it's size which is 6 1/2 then it also say GM 6 1/3 or 4?? compatiable is what it says but i think it's clearly a 6 1/2. I mean it fits in with room around still but just if I want to mount it I'll need some kind of a adaptor or braket or some sort cuz OEM one is too big to where it'll hit the back of the stock braket and if I don't have a adaptor to mount it on can't mount it plus it hits my window if I have it down all the way...well any sugguestion let me know...
I for got but some guy in here had like a 99 ex made his own adator/brakets but forgot his site..well any ideas on how to make a braket for it let me know I'm thinking but no idea...went to best buy see what they would do but they only have 1 inch adaptor braket/mounts which I think might be about same sizes a oem...
I for got but some guy in here had like a 99 ex made his own adator/brakets but forgot his site..well any ideas on how to make a braket for it let me know I'm thinking but no idea...went to best buy see what they would do but they only have 1 inch adaptor braket/mounts which I think might be about same sizes a oem...
don't buy anything, just cut out the back end of the factory speaker embezzle. not like you're going to put those factory speakers back in. provides a perfect spacer for your new speakers.
Your car takes a standard 6.5" speaker that is about 2" deep if you want to fit it into the stock speaker housing without any mods.
There is about another 1" of mounting depth if you cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing big enough for the aftermarket speakers magnet to go through, how much more mounting depth you get will depend on the car.
The speaker uses a 5" diameter mounting hole but is 2.25" deep, you will have to cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing, big enough for the speakers magnet to fit through, [for the extra .25" mounting depth the speaker needs] 3 of the 7 holes in the lip of the speaker, [not the 4 tabs on the outside of the lip] will line up exactly with the stock speaker screw holes in the stock speaker housing.
94
There is about another 1" of mounting depth if you cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing big enough for the aftermarket speakers magnet to go through, how much more mounting depth you get will depend on the car.
The speaker uses a 5" diameter mounting hole but is 2.25" deep, you will have to cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing, big enough for the speakers magnet to fit through, [for the extra .25" mounting depth the speaker needs] 3 of the 7 holes in the lip of the speaker, [not the 4 tabs on the outside of the lip] will line up exactly with the stock speaker screw holes in the stock speaker housing.
94
Just read all the post...kool...well only place I went to was best buy but wasn't sure might be the same size as the factory one....
About cutting the factory housing...I guess I forgot about that but I remeber taking just only the factory speaker out and trying to put new one on but wasn't enough room...anyways I'll try it again and see if it'll work then if it does i'll cut the back of the hosuing and try it-also if I cut it the holes should fit/line up right?...BUT eh well the rain/water get to my speakers if I cut the housing? Don't really want that cuz it's a bit deeper then factory one....
well I'll leave thread at here and try it when the weather permints otherwise this weeken...well thanks so far guys...
About cutting the factory housing...I guess I forgot about that but I remeber taking just only the factory speaker out and trying to put new one on but wasn't enough room...anyways I'll try it again and see if it'll work then if it does i'll cut the back of the hosuing and try it-also if I cut it the holes should fit/line up right?...BUT eh well the rain/water get to my speakers if I cut the housing? Don't really want that cuz it's a bit deeper then factory one....
well I'll leave thread at here and try it when the weather permints otherwise this weeken...well thanks so far guys...
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You will have to cut a hole in the back of the stock speaker housing or us a spacer on the front, [between aftermarket speaker and stock speaker housing] if you cut a hole just big enough for the magnet to go through you should not have any problems with water.
If you don't want to cut the housing, make the spacer instead, use 1/2" MDF, and make two 1/2"MDF "rings" inside diameter is 5", the outside diameter will be the "overall" diameter of the speaker, [or a little bigger], keep this in mind when mounting a speaker, the performance of the speaker is very dependent on the install, entry level or top of the line speakers will both sound like crap if not installed properly.
IMO the 4 most important things for a proper speaker install is...
1- Mount speaker to a flat surface, yea it sounds obvious, you wouldn't think so if you have replaced as many damaged speakers as I have for no other reason.
2. Speaker needs an airtight seal for at least the diameter of the speaker, from the edge of the speaker out, EG; the speaker you have has approxemently a 5" cone so 5" from the edge of the cone in all directions should be airtight, [no holes, gaps or spaces] that the back wave of the speaker can interact with the front wave, it means cancellation and a direct effect on bass response.
3- Mass, the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better it will sound and the more efficient it will be, if all the power goes to moving the cone and none to moving the speaker, you will get better SQ and SPL, remember every action has an equal and opposite reaction.
4- Wood, a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then the same speaker mounted to just about anything else, [definitely better the plastic or metal].
BTW, although the spacer rings will help, [they are wood and they add mass] they don't really count, the whole plastic speaker housing should be replaced with a custom MDF housing, to make a noticeable difference.
Easiest for you will be to cut holes in the back of the stock housing, make a gasket for the speaker to insure it's an airtight seal when you mount it.
94
If you don't want to cut the housing, make the spacer instead, use 1/2" MDF, and make two 1/2"MDF "rings" inside diameter is 5", the outside diameter will be the "overall" diameter of the speaker, [or a little bigger], keep this in mind when mounting a speaker, the performance of the speaker is very dependent on the install, entry level or top of the line speakers will both sound like crap if not installed properly.
IMO the 4 most important things for a proper speaker install is...
1- Mount speaker to a flat surface, yea it sounds obvious, you wouldn't think so if you have replaced as many damaged speakers as I have for no other reason.
2. Speaker needs an airtight seal for at least the diameter of the speaker, from the edge of the speaker out, EG; the speaker you have has approxemently a 5" cone so 5" from the edge of the cone in all directions should be airtight, [no holes, gaps or spaces] that the back wave of the speaker can interact with the front wave, it means cancellation and a direct effect on bass response.
3- Mass, the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better it will sound and the more efficient it will be, if all the power goes to moving the cone and none to moving the speaker, you will get better SQ and SPL, remember every action has an equal and opposite reaction.
4- Wood, a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then the same speaker mounted to just about anything else, [definitely better the plastic or metal].
BTW, although the spacer rings will help, [they are wood and they add mass] they don't really count, the whole plastic speaker housing should be replaced with a custom MDF housing, to make a noticeable difference.
Easiest for you will be to cut holes in the back of the stock housing, make a gasket for the speaker to insure it's an airtight seal when you mount it.
94
okay I'll see what it looks like whenever the weather's good to do it...but sorry MDF is what? But basically make a ring enough for the mounting of the speakers if I choose not to cut the housing right? And make it just tight enough right? I guess I would do the wood thingy but have no damn tools for the cutting don't really build so yeah..but i'll see what i can and can't do...I'll let you know how it goes and if I need more help or idea so yeah thanks man
well i got a chance to put the speakers in today. But I didn't cut anything or really do anything because they aren't the speakers I plan on keeping in the front. So anyways yeah I figured just use a long enough screw and screw them onto the oem mount got some space in between, not good I guess but oh well it'll only be in there untill I can buy them type s pioneer w/ the tweeters...only problem so far with what I did is the wire/plug gets hit by my window if I open it low enough or all the way down plus the space I have between the speaker and mount but it's seems to sound okay for now..crisp but need some kind of a bass or something..anyways I'll keep the thread somewhere for when I get the type s speakers..so thanks man...yeah I ghetto screwed it oh well was quick and now I have speakers
by the way anyone bought the type s speakers already? How they fit in a 92-95 civic and how is it?
by the way anyone bought the type s speakers already? How they fit in a 92-95 civic and how is it?
The reason why you get no bass is because you have a space between the speaker and the factory spacer. Seal up that hole, and you should get more bass output.
If you mean the Pioneer PRS series, [TS-C720PRS] they are a 6 3/4" speaker, [50W] needing a 5 1/2" mounting hole and they are 2 5/8" deep and will need custom work to install and get best SQ from them, they are also a pretty good speaker.
94
94
No I think it's pioneer type r or s one of them I don't know...but that's what i'm looking to buy for the front...and yeah i guess I should find something to fill up the space between the speakers and mounts but I had nothing around so I just screwed it on anyways..when i get a chance at the store, whenever, I'll see if I can put up something and fill the space with whatever it is I'll buy...but for now they're in there like taht pretty loud I guess sharp and I mean sharp gets you right in the ears any louder then 20+ on the vol. can blow my drums out but yeah....pretty good speakers i guess...the deck a 9855?? pioneer is still pretty new yet as well so guess gotta play aorund with it to set up the sound of things so that too...but thanks guys...
by the way the space between the speakers and mount is like I say 1/2 inch I think so any idea what to use let me know...
also what's the html code to post up pictures in here i tried it once but couldn't get it to work i think..so if anyone knows I can post pictures
by the way the space between the speakers and mount is like I say 1/2 inch I think so any idea what to use let me know...
also what's the html code to post up pictures in here i tried it once but couldn't get it to work i think..so if anyone knows I can post pictures
guess I buy that spacer...shouldn't be much no? better not otherwise f it I'll just leave it hahha....by the way I ask what MDF was never gotten an answer sorry don't know MDF...platic spacer I take it...okay thanks yo...
what's the html picture post code you know? is it like this
no???
what's the html picture post code you know? is it like this
MDF = medium density fiberboard. It's pretty much compressed paper. And the code for posting pictures is [ img ]url goes here[ /img ] without the spaces in the brackets.
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