Hello,

I have a 1999 Civic SI Canadian (American EX). When I bought it at 135k everything was running fine except that it didn't like going into reverse and rarly grinds on 3rd. Now at 145km almost a year later it's grinds half the time i try going into reverse and when I am pushing my car it grinds on 3rd.

I did a lot of searching GM Syncromesh seems to be the holy grail.

I thinking thou. I've talk to the previouse owner and he was the 2nd owner and he's never changed the transmition oil and doesn't think it was ever changed...
I am worried by changing it after so many km i might dislodge all the metal shavings and cause problems. So should I do a flush?

Flush with 10W30 or Honda MTF or GM Syncromesh Or Penzoil Synchromesh ?
And how do I flush? open the grain and let it all out then pour and pour and let it flow out ?

Whats the best thing to use Transmition oil to use?
GM Syncromesh: Friction modified, GM Syncromesh, Honda MTF or Penzoil Synchromesh.

How many Quarts does my tranny have?

 

bump.. i wanta know too

 

Changing and flushing the trans fluid is the same thing. The easiest way to do it is

1. There is a screw on the passenger side of the trans that must be removed to drain the trans fluid. It is immediately behind the axle.
2. To fill the trans back up, you can use a hose and either fill it through the same hole that you drained from, or remove the VSS and fill it until fluid starts coming out of the hole that was drained from.

When I changed my clutch, I used syncromesh, and I personally don't feel a whole lot of a difference because it still grinds occasionally, but not very often at all.

-Shane

 

And BTW, manual trans requires 1.9 qts, while auto trans requires 2.9 quarts.

-Shane

 

If your fluid was never changed, I would just try putting OEM fluid back in. You'd be amazed what a difference fresh fluid can make.

I went from OEM fluid to aftermarket with my last clutch change and within a thousand miles started grinding up a storm in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, & reverse. Went back to OEM, put a few thousand on the car and grinds got noticeably better, changed it again with more OEM and within a couple thousand miles the grinds completely stopped. It's a little more recalcitrant to go into 1st than it used to, but no grinding, just notice myself doing the 2nd-1st dance more often than before.

If the fluid has NEVER been changed may take a couple OEM fluid changes with at least a couple thousand miles in-between to get rid of all the accumulated crap. Honda MTF is perfect for Honda MTs. I was kind of dubious before my last aftermarket fiasco, but now I'm a believer.

I had lined up some Syncromesh but decided to give OEM a good shot. Kind of happy I did, since Synchromesh atypically accelerates Honda synchro wear - if they're really worn it's your only option except for a rebuild. But if they're just balking because the fluid is old, getting new OEM can also make the grinds go away, but without accelerating synchro wear.

 

i went friction modified and was happy with it, drain from side plug, then fill from speed sensor on a level area.

 

MonkeyBoy668>
So your saying Synchromesh wears the synchros faster??? i thought its suppose to be better for them.


Let me get this right. I open both holes. let the drain one empty then close it. and fill with the top one till it leaks a little and then close it?

If i want to change the washers (highly recommended in the manual) which ones should I get and from where?

 

When you fill the trans fluid back in, it is full when it reaches the bottom of the hole on the side of the trans, just behing the axle.

-Shane

 

Search for yourself, there's certainly enough debate on Synchromesh to go either way.

Based on what I've read Synchromesh can take synchros that otherwise are worn out of spec and make them work again. And when synchros are working, they are wearing.

Syncromesh has additives for specific GM transmissions, mostly heavy duty light trucks from what I remember. They need these additives to work properly from mile 0. Honda transmissions do not need the same additives (they need a different additive package, present in Honda MTF fluid).

Hopefully nobody will yell at me for those points. The contentious point is going to be what follows...

Synchromesh additives can cause perfectly-fine synchros to engage even more efficiently, which can accelerate their wearing out (assuming that work = wear). If your synchros are in-spec but can't work due to some cruddy ancient MTF getting in their way, Synchromesh can make them work again - but then again so can fresh Honda MTF.

MTF changes need time & mileage for the new fluid to fully distribute around the trans, and we've got a lot of people these days who can't accept anything except immediate gratification, so... MTF discussions are good for a lot of heated debate. Please don't take my word for it, read them for yourself and decide which way you want to go.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you fill the trans fluid back in, it is full when it reaches the bottom of the hole on the side of the trans, just behing the axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1687986

 

BTW, you're officially supposed to use whatever MTF fluid your Honda Owner's Manual / Helms Service Manual recommends. Sometime in the mid-90s Honda released their own MTF fluid, and that fluid is recommended for that era to current cars.

Earlier transmissions were designed to work with 10W30/10W40 oil, and it can still be used in later transmissions in a pinch... but I wouldn't try it unless you get stuck on the side of the road after debris punches a hole in your transmission, you somehow MacGuyver it closed, and you've got a case in your trunk. My Helms says oil causes "increased transmission wear and higher shifting effort" and should be "drained and refilled with Honda MTF as soom as possible." (their typo, not mine)


The crush washers can be reused in a pinch, but should be replaced with new items on every fillup. You have to buy them from a Honda dealer. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ and http://www.slhondaparts.com/ are two online dealerships who can sell them to you, though you should be able to pick up at least a couple for under $5 at your local dealership. I think I paid around US$.25/each for a bunch of oil pan crush washers through an online dealership - bought a bunch years ago, still have a few left. Not sure if they're the same size as the crush washer on the transmission, knowing Honda they're probably different.


Modified by MonkeyBoy668 at 8:45 PM 9/12/2006

 

yeah...stay with MTF for a daily driver and only use Synchromesh as a bandaid.

For the reverse problem though....there is no synchros for reverse and they are straight cut gears(hence the whine). On older cars where the teeth have worn away, it can often time be difficult to get the car in reverse. The best way is this....

-clutch out while in neutral
-clutch in and put in a forward gear(this will stop the mainshaft from spinning- countershaft isn't moving because the car isn't either)
-from the forward gear(usually 1st), then into reverse without taking your foot off the clutch. Should go in nice and smooth everytime. Sometimes though, the teeth won't mesh and will lock you out...then simply put back in neutral clutch out and start over...this will allow the mainshaft to spin some

 

i had a integra that would actually not let you put it in reverse on the same clutch push that you started it on. you would have to push the clutch in start it let the clutch out (car would kinda kick down) push the clutch in and put it in reverse. otherwise it would grind like hell

 

can you mix oem fuild with Synchromesh? i wanted to install my New tranny drain plug and add a some Synchromesh to replace the lost fuild..

 

syncormesh honda MTF

 

Garage was full today so I am going to try going there again tomorrow.
But Good news. Many thanks to everyone.
I go First or Second go into neutral let the cluch go and re push the cluch and it goes into reverse. worked out of the few times i've tried

 

Transmition Fluid Changed to Honda MTF.
The oil that came out looked darker and black.

Sorry could not snap a better picture, I was using my phone.

I changed the fluid to Honda MTF. It seems a little smoother. I pushed and it grinded on 3rd. Reverse worked everytime i've tried it (out of like 5). Going to try again later tomorrow morning (when its cold) and see if it gives me any problem.

I should change the fluid again in a month?

 

I wouldn't do things based on the calendar, I'd plan on changing it in 5000 miles or so, if it doesn't continue to noticeably improve.

It takes a long time for new fluid to fully work it's way around a transmission. Give the new fluid time to flush out what's been left behind.


For me, the last problem to go away was 3-5 or 5-3 shifts. No matter how closely I tried to revmatch those, the synchros ground up a storm. It took 5,000 miles, a 2nd fluid change, then another 3,000 miles to finally give up the ghost. But - different symptoms, caused by a different problem...

 

iv heard so much debate on this and so many opinions and it about drove me nuts. well i have a 3rd gear that grinds slightly also and i wanted a tranny fluid that would help stop it from grinding so bad but i also didnt want anything that wasnt desined for honda transmissions (ie BG synchomesh) so what i ended up finding was Amsoil MTF the reason i went with amsoil is because thay state that it directly replaces and out performs Honda Genuine MTF and lasts longer, and the great thing is this fluid Reduces friction, heat and wear and helps smother shifting and thats exactly what i needed.

i ordered some of it a couple days ago so ill let you know how good the stuff works when i get it in if you want.

Heres a link if you want to check it out for yourself. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx

Good Luck

 

Boo... once out of like 20 times it did not go in. Hugeee Improvement thou from once every 2-3 times it goes in and grinds to 1 out of 20 it does not...


This guy at Honda was very good he told me try this and it seems to work eveytime.

When you put it in reverse your suppose to feel it "click" twice. now if it only went in once is not in properly. DO NOT RELEASE the clutch, tap the gas then push it a little more and it will slip in and then release the clutch (NO GRINDS)

Just a Tip i want to pass along

Can someone explain to me exactly how that works?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah...stay with MTF for a daily driver and only use Synchromesh as a bandaid.

For the reverse problem though....there is no synchros for reverse and they are straight cut gears(hence the whine). On older cars where the teeth have worn away, it can often time be difficult to get the car in reverse. The best way is this....

-clutch out while in neutral
-clutch in and put in a forward gear(this will stop the mainshaft from spinning- countershaft isn't moving because the car isn't either)
-from the forward gear(usually 1st), then into reverse without taking your foot off the clutch. Should go in nice and smooth everytime. Sometimes though, the teeth won't mesh and will lock you out...then simply put back in neutral clutch out and start over...this will allow the mainshaft to spin some
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't have said it better.

1-2-R every time for me.

 

Modified by CardDealer at 9:07 AM 11/16/2006

 

my car is doing something simillar but only in reverse the rest of the gears i have to bust out my ninja moves and punch the gears in or if theres no cars behind me then i just play wit it till it goes in
im guessing it needs new fluids
im gonna try all these tips and cee wat works