I just purchased a '96 honda accord ex coupe. It was upgraded a bit by the previous owner and I was curious if anyone could give me an estimate of what you think my car's hp and torque is at.

In the car is:
- AEM CAI w/ Bypass valve
- AEM under drive pulleys
- Greddy SS Header
- Greddy (Trust) SP Cat back exhaust

Stock HP/Torque = 145/147

I'm going to guess.... 160/165?

 

i got a 96 ex with he same mods and im runnin at 162-160 so ur in the ball park

 

base hp is 145 those items you suggested only gain what you have lost all bolt ons will do is just gain hp not add. Cams, pistions, nos, boost those add hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Auto96accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 96 ex with he same mods and im runnin at 162-160 so ur in the ball park</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha Ha I would love to see the dyno proof of this.

 

i haven't put my car on the dyno... i'm a complete newb with cars. so i was just curious on what you experts would think i don't even know how much dyno testing costs LOL


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ha Ha I would love to see the dyno proof of this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

dyno testing is relatively cheap, you may be looking at 75 buck to a hundred depending where you live. Look for a performance shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Auto96accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 96 ex with he same mods and im runnin at 162-160 so ur in the ball park</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol...as mentioned I wanna see this dyno and coming from an auto too lol. Anyway dyno pulls are pretty cheap nowadays if your just gonna do the pull w/o tuning. A couple of pulls cost prob around 50-100.

 

After 10 Years, It dosnt have 145 any more,

For instance, A friend of mine had a stock 90 accord with a cold air intake and a cat back exhaust, and he dynoed it..

90 Horsepower.... and those cars came at like 130 out of the factory

So your car probably has 115-120 horsepower

then with your " Modifications" Its probably at what it should have been out of the factory

 

I think some of you may be confusing flywheel horsepower with wheel horsepower.

 

its a manual.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAiL05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol...as mentioned I wanna see this dyno and coming from an auto too lol. Anyway dyno pulls are pretty cheap nowadays if your just gonna do the pull w/o tuning. A couple of pulls cost prob around 50-100.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

age of the car has jack to do with HP output it is the MILAGE on the ENGINE and DRIVE TRAIN that affects that.........

 

Thats what i meant, I just assumed that after 10 years it has alot of mileage..

So let me make myself more clear


If You have a 10 year old car, with 100k+ On the motor/drivetrain, U arnt making Factory Horsepower anymore

If you have a 10 year old car with a motor and trans with less than 30k, then youd probably be making the factory spec HP/TQ

 

my car is in pretty good condition... i'll take some pictures and post them on here so you guys can continue guessing i can't imagine that i've lost that much HP/TQ with this car over the mileage, cause it was maintained in awesome condition.

and as for the comment before, someone saying that i wouldn't get a boost in HP/TQ with the headers, exhaust and under drive pulleys that i have, isn't that what these items do? i thought they gave a boost in both areas HP and TQ.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what i meant, I just assumed that after 10 years it has alot of mileage..

So let me make myself more clear


If You have a 10 year old car, with 100k+ On the motor/drivetrain, U arnt making Factory Horsepower anymore

If you have a 10 year old car with a motor and trans with less than 30k, then youd probably be making the factory spec HP/TQ</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think some of you may be confusing flywheel horsepower with wheel horsepower.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct flywheel hp is 145
and say stock wheel hp is 130
drag and restrictions prevent it from hitting fly hp all the bolt ons in the world will get close but not full hp they gain what you have lost not add what you dont got

 

Unless you're on some dyno that reads really, really high, you're never going to see 130whp for a stock motor that has 145 flywheel hp.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drag and restrictions prevent it from hitting fly hp all the bolt ons in the world will get close but not full hp they gain what you have lost not add what you dont got</TD></TR></TABLE>

The first time you said this, I wasn't sure what you were talking about. Now, I think I do. And, my reply would have to be, "not exactly".

As power is transmitted from the engine through the transmission, and then to the wheels, you lose a bit of power in the process. The transmission doesn't spin effortlessly... By the time your car spins the dyno, whether by the wheels or the hubs, you've lost some of the power.

"Bolt-on" power is not limited to what stock flywheel hp is. Because the flywheel hp is 145, you're not magically limited to 145 whp with just bolt-ons. Realistically you won't pass that number anyways, but that's because of a whole different reason.

Let me give you an example. LS1-powered Camaro SS. Flywheel hp of 325. Average dyno, ~300 whp. Average dyno with intake, headers, and exhaust (just bolt-ons) is about 350-370 whp.

Now, bringing all this back to the OP... He's guessing that he has about 160 FLYWHEEL horsepower, which is probably a little high, but nothing to scream bloody murder about. But again, the only way to know what kind of power you are running is to dyno before and after mods, so you can see the net change in power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you're on some dyno that reads really, really high, you're never going to see 130whp for a stock motor that has 145 flywheel hp.

The first time you said this, I wasn't sure what you were talking about. Now, I think I do. And, my reply would have to be, "not exactly".

As power is transmitted from the engine through the transmission, and then to the wheels, you lose a bit of power in the process. The transmission doesn't spin effortlessly... By the time your car spins the dyno, whether by the wheels or the hubs, you've lost some of the power.

"Bolt-on" power is not limited to what stock flywheel hp is. Because the flywheel hp is 145, you're not magically limited to 145 whp with just bolt-ons. Realistically you won't pass that number anyways, but that's because of a whole different reason.

Let me give you an example. LS1-powered Camaro SS. Flywheel hp of 325. Average dyno, ~300 whp. Average dyno with intake, headers, and exhaust (just bolt-ons) is about 350-370 whp.

Now, bringing all this back to the OP... He's guessing that he has about 160 FLYWHEEL horsepower, which is probably a little high, but nothing to scream bloody murder about. But again, the only way to know what kind of power you are running is to dyno before and after mods, so you can see the net change in power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

/thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you're on some dyno that reads really, really high, you're never going to see 130whp for a stock motor that has 145 flywheel hp.

The first time you said this, I wasn't sure what you were talking about. Now, I think I do. And, my reply would have to be, "not exactly".

As power is transmitted from the engine through the transmission, and then to the wheels, you lose a bit of power in the process. The transmission doesn't spin effortlessly... By the time your car spins the dyno, whether by the wheels or the hubs, you've lost some of the power.

"Bolt-on" power is not limited to what stock flywheel hp is. Because the flywheel hp is 145, you're not magically limited to 145 whp with just bolt-ons. Realistically you won't pass that number anyways, but that's because of a whole different reason.

Let me give you an example. LS1-powered Camaro SS. Flywheel hp of 325. Average dyno, ~300 whp. Average dyno with intake, headers, and exhaust (just bolt-ons) is about 350-370 whp.

Now, bringing all this back to the OP... He's guessing that he has about 160 FLYWHEEL horsepower, which is probably a little high, but nothing to scream bloody murder about. But again, the only way to know what kind of power you are running is to dyno before and after mods, so you can see the net change in power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
prehaps I may be wrong but can I ask for some evidence because from what IVE SEEN automakers dyno a motor to the fly without the tranny on or the ps,ac cond,restrive air box or alt so if it is true what you say then may I ask for info not dissn' you just want more info

 

Yes, automakers dyno a motor without the trans, i.e. the motor is directly connected to the machine. However, the engines are tested with some of the "restrictions", as you put it. The new standards even go as far as to require a full exhaust.

The reason your logic was faulty was in the assumption that the restrictions are the cause of the power loss. The simple truth is that dynos we use measure power after the drivetrain losses that I already mentioned. This is because it would not be practical for everyone to pull the engine out and wire it up to engine dyno everytime the wanted to find out how much power they're putting out or to help tune the motor.

Factory intakes, exhaust manifolds, and exhausts are all compromises. Engineers have to find a balance between power, noise levels, durability, and in some cases, cost.

 

160hp without a dyno. the gains bolt ons say they make are just numbers to get your green.

lol, maybe if there was a stock h22 in there.

 

to add some numbers for perspective.

I dyno'd @ 128whp and 140 ft. lbs of torque... with only a catback... that was about a million years ago when my car was not yet bottled or more recently boosted.

at the time it only had like 78k miles and the pass was made in 4th gear on a 85 degree day.

 

here's a collage:




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LLiieemm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car is in pretty good condition... i'll take some pictures and post them on here so you guys can continue guessing i can't imagine that i've lost that much HP/TQ with this car over the mileage, cause it was maintained in awesome condition.

and as for the comment before, someone saying that i wouldn't get a boost in HP/TQ with the headers, exhaust and under drive pulleys that i have, isn't that what these items do? i thought they gave a boost in both areas HP and TQ.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

that is actually a pretty clean engine bay. but what is that shot of the trunk lid showing, is it stripped?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what i meant, I just assumed that after 10 years it has alot of mileage..

So let me make myself more clear


If You have a 10 year old car, with 100k+ On the motor/drivetrain, U arnt making Factory Horsepower anymore

If you have a 10 year old car with a motor and trans with less than 30k, then youd probably be making the factory spec HP/TQ</TD></TR></TABLE>

it depends, ten year of beating or ten years of TLC will make a world of different.

my car still pulls prefect compression and leakdown at 100k, so what does it means?

you have to look at the power band, you can add a supercharger and it will not make much peak gain but on a road course it pulled like a ****. There's people always live by the number(peak hp) and there's some willing to take less peak gain for more useable power.

alot of modification doesn't give you much peak gain, esp. bolt on's.

some modification like header will give you more gain at one area at expense of another.(low end vs. up end)

that's why you have to dyno the car, mindlessly putting stuff there doesn't anything. (not saying that you but that's how most of the people do)

litte ot but your car is really clean, you can eat off that thing

 

Interesting that these accords don't really make a lot of power -

In reference to what the guys before talking about -

Yes parastatic loss does occur so when most manufactures say numbers, they are talking about numbers from an engine on what is called a Bench dyno

You car look awesome by the way for it's age - and I love the color!

If I was you, I would focus on suspension stuff because handling is where the car will shine, not in the power game.....