can someone please help?

i tried advancing the timing on my type r by moving the distributor a tad, but someone told me that the ecu would just re-adjust it again unless you do it the proper way
is this true? and if so how do i do it??

thanx in advance

 

it adjusts only when knocking...so the trick is to advance the timing as far as possible without knocking. once the engine knocks, the ecu readjusts your ignition timing back to a lower number, far lower....

 

As far as I know, there is no other way to do it than moving your distributor. I advanced mine to 18 and it's running better on 93 octane gas. There might be another way I don't know. Someone clear it up...

 

thanx!!
does anyone have any other input? mabe someone can clear that up??

 

here. these are instructions on how to advance properly. I have mine set to 18d btdc. makes a diff in low and midrange power. definately a

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/timing/timing.html

 

you have to jump the service connector before you advance the timing.

these directions are good and what i used
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/timing/timing.html

 

ah you just beat me

 

 

thats great guys !
once again thanx for all the help

 

sorry guys one more question?

what is a good setting 18 16 or 14 degrees?

im sorry, it not my fault im ignorant!!

 

mines more than 18.. almost 20 if not more.

 

I hope you didn't get your post count that high by giving wrong advise or at least unclear.

You want to set your timing at 18 degrees advanced. The factory spec is 16 degree plus or minus 2 degree, so 18 is within the factory specs.

Mattj

 

So, I think what I did was not useful. I didn't jump the service connector when I adjusted my timing to 18 deg. It means the computer corrected the timing and the engine is runnig as at the factory 16 deg. still?

 

do u really need to jump the service connector? coz it still changes the timing without the jump.

 

being your not in good ol california, go 18deg

 

Yes, you really do if you want to do it right. By installing a jumper in the harness (paperclip, wire....) it prevents the ECU from compensating for loads. IE: such as if you cooling fan were to come on or the a/c compressor were on, headlights, radio.......... The timing will still change with out it, but not correctly.

Mattj

 

mattj, can u tell the different between with and without the service connector?(when u adjust timing, u will turn off all the AC, headlight and radio) as i see the timing is change without the connector, how incorrect of the timing will be?

 

will i be able to adjust the timing with the unorthodox pullies??

if not, WHAT do i do??


[Modified by macdaddy, 2:47 PM 4/29/2002]

 

does anyone know?

 

did the unorthodox pullies you installed replace the main crank pully with the timing marks on them? if so, and the pullies you bought do not have the same marks as the stock pully, then no, I'd say you can't use them.

if you didn't replace the crank pulley and still have the stock one with the timinig marks on them, then it shouldn't make a diff.

 

I got best results on my engine at 20 degrees timing.
18 degrees might be more safe... but the difference in 2 degrees timing made close to 4whp on my car.

11:1 compression is humid, hot FL. No detonation as of yet, and I've been driving around on it like this for 3 days.

 

thanx again guys!