anyone running b20 in here?
What exactly did the engine cost you and did you buy it at a junkyard or do they have b20's for sale somewhere......was it very difficult putting the vtec head on there and any other mods.....did it fit nicely into your civic......what kind of times are you running now that you have all that power??
Ju$+iN
Ju$+iN
i dont have one myself, but i think u can buy one at http://www.hondamotorsonline.com/
[Modified by Hcivic88, 2:03 AM 4/28/2002]
[Modified by Hcivic88, 2:03 AM 4/28/2002]
well, i was kinda hoping to talk to someone who had it in NOW>......so i could ask if they had problems.....or if it was all peaches and they have amazing 1/4 times....
Ju$+iN
Ju$+iN
i had a b20z (stock) in a 5th gen hatch with a s1 cable trans, and it was a blast to drive. great combo for auto cross, i dont do straight line i need cones or something. i will most likley put one in my 4th gen hatch i have now, but first i am putting a b16a in. i am looking at buying tom payne's new block, check it out at http://www.payntechnologies.com
[Modified by revhardracing, 3:09 AM 4/28/2002]
[Modified by revhardracing, 3:09 AM 4/28/2002]
well i dont have a b20 either but i do have a 2 liter in my crx. if i were you i personally would think twice about wasting so much money on a b20 block. you probably wont find one for much less than 800. if your smart youll buy a ls block which can be had for 200-300 get it sleeved for a around 750-850. and there you go u have a 2 liter block thats twice as strong for only a couple hundred more. if you have any questions email me, if i cant give an answer i have some extremely knowledgeable friends that will definitely be able to.
1stealth, did you run into any problems, how about the wiring?. How does that torque monster run? what tranny are you using. and last but not least did you use the b20b mount brackets or did you have to get ones of a 90-93 teg. thnks in advance
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I have a B20Z in my 1988 Civic HB. It is just a basic, non-VTEC setup with a P75 ECU, 1994-1995 Integra intake manifold, DC header, AEM CAI, and Greddy catback exhaust. And I would have to say that it is a GREAT setup. Even without a VTEC head. As far as quarter mile times, I have run 15.0 at 92.6MPH, or about the same as my B16A. If this seems a little slow, keep in mind that I can't launch worth a crap! I only do 2.2 second 60 foot times in my dreams. Oops, I take that back! I am so bad I can't even dream about a doing a 2.2 second 60 foot time!
As for resleeving a B18A vs going B20Z, it all depends on your cash flow and intentions. Actually, it will be more than a couple of hundred dollars more for resleeving a B18A/B18B. Because the cost of the motor and sleeving together does not take into account the cost of pistons and other hardware needed. It also does not take into consideration the cost of labor (if you can;t do the work yourself). So unless you are serious about building a CR-VTEC right now, you would be better off just buying a CR-V longblock.
As for resleeving a B18A vs going B20Z, it all depends on your cash flow and intentions. Actually, it will be more than a couple of hundred dollars more for resleeving a B18A/B18B. Because the cost of the motor and sleeving together does not take into account the cost of pistons and other hardware needed. It also does not take into consideration the cost of labor (if you can;t do the work yourself). So unless you are serious about building a CR-VTEC right now, you would be better off just buying a CR-V longblock.
where can i find infor on how to wire the b20 up in my hatch? since the b20 is an obd2 and the hatch runs an obd1 how would i go about wiring that up? where is a good place to get a wiring harness for this setup? i'm planning on this myself so i would like to get as much infor as i can about this.
use all obd1 ls components
alt,tranny,dist,intake mani,exhaust mani,ls engine harness,ls fuel rail and injectors
pretty much strip the b20 bare and put all ls chit back on it any questions u can e-mail me i did the swap in my 95 ls
onestealthls@msn.com
alt,tranny,dist,intake mani,exhaust mani,ls engine harness,ls fuel rail and injectors
pretty much strip the b20 bare and put all ls chit back on it any questions u can e-mail me i did the swap in my 95 ls
onestealthls@msn.com
I've got a b20b in my crx.
Using the crx injectors, distributor. 90-91 pr4 ecu (90-91 teg non-vtec)
Using the skunk2 intake manifold for non-vtec b18's.
Works fine, great motor...torque all over the place.
Oh, I'm running a USDM '92 teg YS1 cable tranny
Using the crx injectors, distributor. 90-91 pr4 ecu (90-91 teg non-vtec)
Using the skunk2 intake manifold for non-vtec b18's.
Works fine, great motor...torque all over the place.
Oh, I'm running a USDM '92 teg YS1 cable tranny
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well i dont have a b20 either but i do have a 2 liter in my crx. if i were you i personally would think twice about wasting so much money on a b20 block. you probably wont find one for much less than 800. if your smart youll buy a ls block which can be had for 200-300 get it sleeved for a around 750-850. and there you go u have a 2 liter block thats twice as strong for only a couple hundred more. if you have any questions email me, if i cant give an answer i have some extremely knowledgeable friends that will definitely be able to.
i have a b20b in my 98 cr-v it is a slow p.o.s. but the real time 4 wd is cool. i am just waiting for my wife to total it so i can get the motor, joking.
I am running a 1993 B18A YS1 (LS) transmission. Although the gears are quite tall, the B20Z has more than enough torque to pull the car up any freeway grade as fast as you would ever want to go WITHOUT downshifting to fourth.
my bro in law has a b20z in a eg hatch... it's best time with i/h/e was a 14.7... the engine, mounts and all that good ol' swap stuff ran to about $3000... also, try to get the b20z not the b20b... the z has better compression... he's running a gsr tranny now... im sure a first gen b16 tranny would make that engine feel really strong...
actually a resleeved b18 is weaker than a stock b20 becasue the b20 has a thicker casting walls than a ls block. i'm far from an expert in this, but i do know that your statement is wrong. go to http://www.crvtec.com and read it for yourself.
i hear with LS/vtec and B20/vtec, you have to do a complete rebuild every 20,000 miles. that is, unless u resleeve, and build the motor. any truth to that?
i was running one in my car for a while with a jdm ys1 tranny. in 5th gear at 3-4k rpms you could stomp on the gas and pull your head in the seat.
i can't wait to put mine back in
i can't wait to put mine back in
Check out http://www.b20vtec.com he has an all motor B20 pushin 221 with about 172 lbs of torque his fastest time was like 12.6 i think but just check it out also it is converted to v-tec with an type-r head I believe
You dont have to rebuild B20s every 20k... If they are tuned then you should be ok. They do have thinner sleeves then the rest of Honda blocks 7mm vs. 9mm but Hey its a 2.0!
Blaze
Blaze
damn you 2.0 crv motor peeps, you make me want to ditch my b16 and get a b20z block over and LS and swap it back into my crx so much. i heard you can run some crazy *** times and c'mon 2.0L honda hatch!
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