did this one kinda quick for someone today. I know there is one in the FAQ already but it cant hurt to have another one.

Take negative off battery
remove starter


Remove battery and tray
remove intake
remove shift cable cotter pins
remove cables



remove cable bracket
unplug VSS and reverse light switch



remove slave cylinder and hardline bracket


loosen tranny mount


loosen rear torque bolt
loosen tranny pilot bolts (3 top tranny bolts)
loosen hub nuts on both sides
loosen wheel lugs

jack up the car as high as possible and place jackstands under the car securely
drain tranny oil
remove wheels
remove lower ball joint castle nut and cotter pin
remove passenger side tie rod
remove hub nut


use and ball joint separator here then
lift and spin hub out of the way while taking axle out
take a pry par and put it between the tranny and the end of the axle
- pop it out

driver side, same story cept the axles are a little different
when you get to removing the axle on the driver side, all you have to do is remove 3 bolts holding the intermediate shaft to the block. then pop it out

remove center crossbeam
remove engine/tranny torsion brace
remove bolts from rear mount that attach to the tranny, there is one or two on the block

remove all bolts holding tranny to block.

THIS IS WHERE A TRANNY JACK COMES INTO PLACE
put the jack under the tranny to give it support while you remove the tranny mount

there are two studs coming out of the tranny. I removed them in order to give me enough clearance to pull the tranny out enough to clear the main shaft of the clutch assembly

once the mount is removed, use the pry bar and break the tranny free of the block.
- shouldnt take much force at all
pull tranny away from block til the main shaft clears the clutch assembly
slowly lower the tranny while turning the tranny towards the back of the car in order to clear the shift fork of the crossmember

once you have the tranny down, pick up the tranny and remove the tranny jack.
set tranny on floor.


its nice to have an air gun here because trying to break the pressure plate and flywheel bolts free is kinda tough (the flywheel will spin). If you must, place a pipe with a crushed end on the flywheel teeth and the other end on the ground, held in place by whatever you can find....ghetto but it works.

anyway, get all the bolts off and remove flywheel and clutch. If you are only doing a clutch swap, still remove the flywheel to inspect it. You may need to take it to a machine shop it have it resurfaced.

now put everything back on in reverse order

Put "blue" locktite on the flywheel bolts and torque them to 76ft lbs in several steps in a crisscross pattern
IE: 30ft lbs, 55ft lbs, 76ft lbs


grab clutch assembly and use the alignment tool to hold the disk/puck to the flywheel. This will insure the main shaft goes in straight.


torque the pressure plate bolts to 19 ft lbs in several steps in a crisscross pattern.


remove shift fork, release bearing and spring
use break cleaner on spring and fork. Apply grease to fork and main shaft. Use sparingly on the shaft.
reinstall fork and spring
slide release bearing onto fork and push it down until you hear it click.

now put everything back together and remember to retorque the rear mount bolts.



i may be missing a few steps, but thats pretty much it. Just alot of tedious stuff.

 

nice write up. what clutch and flywheel are you using?

 

good write up. nice job!

 

action 2ks, 12lbs fidanza

 

Hey, just reading this makes me wanna do mines asap. Thanks for taking time to make a write up *Cheers*

 

its not fun at all. And i was made of money i would for sure pay someone to do it. LOL

 

where did you buy that 12lb flywheel?

 

friend whose name will go unannounced for reasons not known to many

 

Nice writeup. This is a 5g, right? Don't forget to put oil back in the tranny! Thanks for posting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup. This is a 5g, right? Don't forget to put oil back in the tranny! Thanks for posting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bahahaha, yea that and replace the cotter pins that are removed

 

*shudders* i hate changing the clutch on my 4th gen - the damned gear selectors get caught on literally everything

 

Modified by [l-l]22A1.BB1.Reluded at 5:34 PM 8/29/2006

 

yea this is gonna be a bitch i gotta do it tomorrow for the first time without help and no mechanical experience

 

HELMS HELMS HELMS!!!!!! Be thankful you are not doing an SH in the cold!!!! Good luck to you man!!! Mine is still cuasing grief pain and hell in a hand basket....

 

i knew i should have done mine last month, now it's 20 f-ing degrees everyday...I hope wherever you did it it was warm and comfortable

 

I am still not done yet .... 2 f'ing bolts on the bell housing on the backside....just a pain in my **** cuz I have an SH and I think I need to remove it

 

ATTS strikes again. Sorry to hear that, Happy. Just loosen the ATTS unit (don't remove it) and pop it out of the differential to get access to the rear torque mount.

And belatedly: Nice thread, Blake.

 

i dont have a helms but i got a chilton, will that work?? i dont have money to buy a helms.. i just wish i had some pictures with the instructions... yea and its 20 degrees here too.. and snowing

 

Dl the helms from here http://www.spoonhonda.com/Free_Downl...uals_s/119.htm

 

sweet thanks!!

 

Changing a clutch is a bitch, but at least you save a lot of money doing it yourself