crower II's non-stock lobes, sometimes stalls....could it be the a/f at idle or timing?
i just finished installing crower stage II's and have done a valve adjustment and had the car dyno'd with a vafc (not the best tool but it works)
anyway the car usually revs around 750~800rpms and sometimes drops to 550~600rpms and then will stall. it seems like it is having trouble catching itself when the idle drops. it just does this sometimes and i am not sure why.
so could it be the timing or the a/f ratio....the tuner only tuned from 3000rpms on up and said that i didn't need to worry about the a/f at lower rpms/idle....is this true?
thanks to all who post
anyway the car usually revs around 750~800rpms and sometimes drops to 550~600rpms and then will stall. it seems like it is having trouble catching itself when the idle drops. it just does this sometimes and i am not sure why.
so could it be the timing or the a/f ratio....the tuner only tuned from 3000rpms on up and said that i didn't need to worry about the a/f at lower rpms/idle....is this true?
thanks to all who post
LOL, who tuned it?
you are likely going to need to advanced the timing in the idle area in order to keep it from falling on its face and stalling, but you cant do that with a vafc.
the reason he says this is likely because he knows a vafc does not work under closed loop (part throttle) and knows he cant do anything about it.
but to say its not important is not a smart statement.
you are likely going to need to advanced the timing in the idle area in order to keep it from falling on its face and stalling, but you cant do that with a vafc.
the reason he says this is likely because he knows a vafc does not work under closed loop (part throttle) and knows he cant do anything about it.
but to say its not important is not a smart statement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you are likely going to need to advanced the timing in the idle area in order to keep it from falling on its face and stalling, but you cant do that with a vafc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
can i do this with the skunk2 cam gears i have? i also heard you can adjust the timing slightly at the distribiter(i know it's spelled wrong but i'm tired), will this work?
does this sound like a timing problem or should i get a chipped ecu and have them adjust the a/f at idle?
thanks for the quick post
you are likely going to need to advanced the timing in the idle area in order to keep it from falling on its face and stalling, but you cant do that with a vafc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
can i do this with the skunk2 cam gears i have? i also heard you can adjust the timing slightly at the distribiter(i know it's spelled wrong but i'm tired), will this work?
does this sound like a timing problem or should i get a chipped ecu and have them adjust the a/f at idle?
thanks for the quick post
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i do this with the skunk2 cam gears i have? i also heard you can adjust the timing slightly at the distribiter(i know it's spelled wrong but i'm tired), will this work?
does this sound like a timing problem or should i get a chipped ecu and have them adjust the a/f at idle?
thanks for the quick post</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly, i dont know. That would only be adjusting the valve overlap not the ignition timing. And i dont know enough about valve overlap to give you an accurate answer.
You can make small adjustment with the distributor since you are OBDI, but it is indeed only small adjustments. Get a base time, should be around 15*. Then advance the distributer a couple degrees. This is just a patch tho and will be advancing your total timing as well.
It does sound like a timing problem. Your motor needs to be completely tuned in the first place if you really want to enjoy what you paid for.
a socketed ecu tuned with hondata, <CROME>, Neptune... would be a wise investment.
does this sound like a timing problem or should i get a chipped ecu and have them adjust the a/f at idle?
thanks for the quick post</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly, i dont know. That would only be adjusting the valve overlap not the ignition timing. And i dont know enough about valve overlap to give you an accurate answer.
You can make small adjustment with the distributor since you are OBDI, but it is indeed only small adjustments. Get a base time, should be around 15*. Then advance the distributer a couple degrees. This is just a patch tho and will be advancing your total timing as well.
It does sound like a timing problem. Your motor needs to be completely tuned in the first place if you really want to enjoy what you paid for.
a socketed ecu tuned with hondata, <CROME>, Neptune... would be a wise investment.
philly dyno works.... they seemed to know what they were doing, but i never went to a dyno b4 so i have nothing to compare it to.
http://www.phillydynoworks.com/index_site.htm
?
do you have a graph to post? Maybe with an a/f graph?
what was your power output? How did the vtec crossover look? torque line?
?
do you have a graph to post? Maybe with an a/f graph?
what was your power output? How did the vtec crossover look? torque line?
Trending Topics

crossover at 5200.
i posted something like this b4 and you recommended a better tune/tuning device:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1702092
i am trying to keep the vafc but if i must i may upgrade when i get some more funds
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gutted-dx
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
13
Nov 30, 2008 10:55 AM



