Basically this is my problem..

just brought a 1990 EF 1.6 i-16, and the brakes need bleeding - badly! the only problem is that the nipples are very very corroded and will allmost cirtainly snap! Can anyone offer any advice on how to do this? or if there are other (possibly less effective) ways of removing air from my brakes or just any info at all that could help?

thanks
scott

 

use a brake bleeder wrench to get em to turn. also before you go to brake em loose, get some P. B. blaster. and let it soak in. if they do snap, your looking at using a screw extractor set to get em out. if not, new calipers i guess.. and that sucks.. but you could look at a junk yard/ebay for em instead of buying new.

hope these ideas help

 

thanks :-) anymore?

 

seconded on the PB blaster...give it time to work.

 

thanks for the comments
so there is definatly no other way to remove air from the brakes?

 

Nope, that's basically the only way to do it.

--DD

 

no not really, there is however a tool the you hook up to a small impact that is suppose to shake the bleeder lose, i forgot what they are called, our MAC tool guy had one a bit ago.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott (T.O.A) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the comments
so there is definatly no other way to remove air from the brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There really isn't. The valve in the bleeder screw is the only way to let air out of the system without letting it back in. If you have discs in the rear, you could theoretically bleed the lines by loosening the brake line from the caliper, but that would be really sketchy and also wouldn't bleed the caliper.

Have a new set of bleeder screws ready to throw on if you do break the old ones loose, they might not work anymore anyway.

 

and if your going to get new bleed screws, you might as well get the russle speed bleeders so that you can just open it and pump the breaks yourself. but me personally, i like watching the fluid fill up the little clear jar so you know all the bubbles are gone when i did my swap, i had the bleed the breaks for like 20 mins. but it ended up flushing the lines, so that was a bonus. thing stops on a dime now. its awesome. was worth the waiting and hastle of needing the new rear caliper lines and the hard line from the m/c to the prop valve.

 

thanks for all your help lads :-) managed to get 2 undone now! 2more to go!! *touch wood*

 

pb blaster is like magic. I give it at least 2 minutes to do its work before I start working on a bolt. pb blaster also is great for getting stubborn dirt and grime off your hands...

 

i couldnt open the bleader screw on my calipers, and i almost rouded off the head of the bleeder screw and then i relized that i should just use a long 10mm socket to loosen the bleeder screw cuz it grabs on all sides of the screw. worked like a charm. just tighten it with a open ended wrench.

 

I use a box-end wrench on the bleeders for that very reason--grips on all six sides! Doesn't grip as much area as a socket, but works well enough so far.

--DD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saaron34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pb blaster is like magic. I give it at least 2 minutes to do its work before I start working on a bolt. pb blaster also is great for getting stubborn dirt and grime off your hands...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Careful with the long sockets I got a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket jammed between the rear brake cylinder and the brake backing plate on the rear drum brakes, one late night of all night wrenching, trying to make it to the track for an HPDE, well it backed off so much that the ratchet was jammed and before I could flip the lever to tighten it down to get the ratchet out it was too late it was stuck. I had to sacrifice the socket with a hacksaw, luckily it was a dimestore variety. Line wenches are cheap, even from craftsman, just get the two that you need 8mm and 10mm, they are worth it.