I am not sure if this is "typical" from this car, so I thought I would ask. I have noticed since I got the car, the car tends to "buck" at low rpm. This is specially bad when it's cold. I believe I read on this forum that this was normal for this car.

However, I am now noticing this even after it's warmed up and pretty much in every gear but 5th and 6th.

As I stated, I noticed this buck since I got the car. Mostly when it was cold and in 1st gear. About 2,000 miles ago I had a CAI, Catback and IMG installed. I noticed the buck was a little worse, but not much. Again, it was mainly when it was cold and in 1st gear.

However, it now seems to be getting worse. Yesterday when leaving the parking lot at work, it was so bad I had to hit the clutch and rev the motor. After that it seem better, but it was still noticeable in most gears, when I was below 3,500 rpm.

Is anyone else having this problem? It almost feels like the car is running too lean. I am technically challenged when it comes to these new cars, so don't even know if the fuel mixture can be adjusted.

I am taking the car back to Dynospot in couple weeks to have a short shifter installed. I will also have them check this "bucking" out, as well as the clicking sound from the engine. I am assuming the sound is the injectors firing, but I can't tell if it's that or the valves. The dealer put synthetic Mobil 1 5w-20 in the car when I had them change the oil. I am wondering if that is too thin for this motor.

Anyway, any feed back would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

it seems these si's have alot of "quirks" bump for an answer

 

sounds like something the ECU update would fix, are you in the dark about that? there are plenty of threads about it here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like something the ECU update would fix, are you in the dark about that? there are plenty of threads about it here</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought the ecu update only fixed the rev hang? this sounds like something different

 

yeah it does, people also noted (and I mean I could be wrong but this is just what i've read) that along with the rev hang was this buckng that he is referring too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it does, people also noted (and I mean I could be wrong but this is just what i've read) that along with the rev hang was this buckng that he is referring too</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah i wasnt sure if it was all the same or not...seems like in his case its really bad

 

you're paying them to install your shortshifter???

 

im too drunk to read it.. and i cant understand it,..
is it like, when you shift... the car "bumps".. like back

 

its when its cold. when the engine is being started after sitting for a long time. let it heat up a little bit before trying to gun it. if cold, then dont push it past 3200 rpms. it'll help. dont know if the reflash will or wont do anything

 

It also fixes delays in the DBW, which is what causes the bucking...

hey let me know how much that extra ECU costs you, i thought about doing the same thing but id like to know the price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demonis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey let me know how much that extra ECU costs you, i thought about doing the same thing but id like to know the price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 - I would also like to know how much this costs.

I am having a similar issue. However, the car doesn't take that long to heat up in TX. So, by the time I am in 3rd gear after starting the car, it stomp "bucking".

 

The cost was only going to be like $450. However, I guess I can't just swap it out myself. According to a Honda Mech, if I unhook the battery and swap out the unit, all the sensors and warnings will get screwed up. I need to have some other type of electric equipment to reset the sensors during installation.

I really did not understand what the guy was talking about, but fine. I put the purchase on hold for now. I will wait till I get a header before I look into it again.

Anyway, I though $450 was pretty darn cheap.

 

i hve the same problem i cant get it above 3500rpm whn its cold and i let it warm it up a lil and it seems 2 b workin...

 

ya after u put tht in u need 2 erase the codes through a oem scanner...

 

dc sports already has a header 4 the si

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mechman456 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dc sports already has a header 4 the si</TD></TR></TABLE>

But it's bascially straight piping. I'm sure Comptech's will be 100% smog legal with a cat.

 

also, the DCRH (dc race header) seems to have a few problems with it... such as the welds cracking, and the flex pipe breaking. some have had no problems, but the few i have heard about make me wanna stay away. plus the fact that it voids ur warranty makes me say NNNNNNO! NNNNNO! BAD! NNNNO! none for u higgins!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hellzcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not sure if this is "typical" from this car, so I thought I would ask. I have noticed since I got the car, the car tends to "buck" at low rpm. This is specially bad when it's cold. I believe I read on this forum that this was normal for this car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure if I'm completely understanding, but I have noticed something similar. I own a manual EX. When passing 2,000 RPM only in 3rd and 4th gear I notice a slight 'tug' or something... almost feels like you're going over a small bump in the road, and that's what I thought it was at first until I noticed that it was always consistent with 3rd and 4th gear and at around 2,000RPM. When I realized that it was consistent, I was somewhat irate, but I've learned to live with it and figured this was just normal for Civics. It's tolerable, but also a little annoying. Anyone else with an EX,DX,LX and manual notice this 'tug' or anyone know what it is... should I consider it normal?

 

what are you guys talking about? what is a "buck" lol.

 

You people are morons. What makes you think having a header voids your warranty?!? Geez, wake up. If the header causes the failure of &lt;insert part name&gt; then yes Honda can elect to not cover the warranty repair, but otherwise your warranty is unaffected. And Honda customer service consistently grants warranty repair authorization after the dealers have denied it, so you still have a decent chance of getting something covered under warranty even if the header caused some problem (although I'm not sure what problem a header would cause).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95turbodteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, the DCRH (dc race header) seems to have a few problems with it... such as the welds cracking, and the flex pipe breaking. some have had no problems, but the few i have heard about make me wanna stay away. plus the fact that it voids ur warranty makes me say NNNNNNO! NNNNNO! BAD! NNNNO! none for u higgins!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

before you blame the car, are you sure you can drive a manual properly?

do you downshift in everyday driving or just put it in neutral and come to a stop?

when you downshift from 5th-4-3-2...it shouldn't speed or slow down, if the car speeds up or slow down suddenly, you're doing it wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You people are morons. What makes you think having a header voids your warranty?!? Geez, wake up. If the header causes the failure of &lt;insert part name&gt; then yes Honda can elect to not cover the warranty repair, but otherwise your warranty is unaffected. And Honda customer service consistently grants warranty repair authorization after the dealers have denied it, so you still have a decent chance of getting something covered under warranty even if the header caused some problem (although I'm not sure what problem a header would cause).</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but anything that you modify on your vehicle, if something breaks its going to a pain in the *** to fight the dumbass dealerships, so why bother? im keeping mine stock until the warranty runs out just so i dont have to deal with their crap...and so i can save some monies and wait until better products come out