This weekend I installed an inlinepro 3mm headgasket. It's a b18c1 with arp headstubs and aem cam gears. I called up inlinepro they said to torque down the head to 75ftlbs using arp lube/85ftlbs using 10w30 motor oil. Soon as I start it up I notice 2 problems. Car vibrates more then it should and motor sounds like it's not running on all the cylinders. Sounds like it's missing/like as if it had loopy cams or something. The exhaust also sounds louder then it did before the headgasket change. I set the cam gears to +2,+2 advanced, and I can't even see the timing marks to time it. Any help/suggestions/opinions would be appreciated.

 

check ignition timing, and make sure the timing belt isn't off a tooth.

 

It's not off a tooth, I checked that 4 times. I can't time it because the marks are too far off to time it right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not off a tooth, I checked that 4 times. I can't time it because the marks are too far off to time it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean they are too far off?

 

I point the timing light over to time it but don't see the timing markings to time it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I point the timing light over to time it but don't see the timing markings to time it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, this might be your problem.

I would set the motor at top dead center on cylinder 1, take off your distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing exactly at the #1 terminal on the cap..

If that checks out ok, then your static timing is way off, so you'll have to turn the distributor to bring it back into spec.

 

I know the cam gear are on tdc, checked that 3 times. I'll check the distributor, see if it's on #1.

 

yea distributor might be 180 off

 

If after the check all your spark plug wires and dizzy. Start pulling out the wires from each cylinder one at a time when the engine is running.

If you pull one out and the motor doesn't change, then it could be bad plug, wire, injector, injector plug not on all the way, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea distributor might be 180 off</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow you would have to expletive something up major to get that to happen. Both the cam-dizzy and the rotor-dizzy can only go on one way.

If you mean that the one of the cams is off by 180 then the car would never start. There would be zero compression in all cylinders.

 

can´t really see that as a hg problem. im also running a 3mm hg on and the car and no issues at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If after the check all your spark plug wires and dizzy. Start pulling out the wires from each cylinder one at a time when the engine is running.

If you pull one out and the motor doesn't change, then it could be bad plug, wire, injector, injector plug not on all the way, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Checked the rotor on the dizzy and it's on #1 on tdc. But if I pull a spark plug wire out (doesn't matter which one) there is no change at all.

 

put the cam gears back to 0,0.Ive had shaved heads were I couldnt get the timing within spec because the shaved head would change the timing.


Did they tell u that u have to advance the cam gears 2 degrees when u installed the gasket?

I cant think of it right now, but u have to find out a way to calculate how much a 3mm head gasket would affect the ignition timing.

Changing the height of the cams in realtion to the crank is why ur timing is too far off and must be compensated with the cam gears.

 

yeah timming will be affected with the thicker hg, i dont remember how many degrees i advanced mine and i can´t check right now as my valve cover isnt cut.

 

Yeah they did, but I forgot the mention to them that my head was shaved .005 when I talked to them.

 

Problem is fixed turned out to be the distributor being bad. Changed it with a new and and that problem is gone. But now the car lacks power now until it hits vtec. Do I have to retune it since the c/r is lower now?

 

Also what time of timing light are you using? Is it an adjustable one? If you have an adjustable one and you set it to 16 degrees then go off the white mark on the crank IF it is not an adjustable timing light then go off the RED MARK on the crank pulley. Good luck

Remember what i told you on the phone, one point of compression is approx 3-5 percent less power. Also since you lowered your compression, your boost response is not affected BUT off throttle response will be affected

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Problem is fixed turned out to be the distributor being bad. Changed it with a new and and that problem is gone. But now the car lacks power now until it hits vtec. Do I have to retune it since the c/r is lower now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you need a retune BECAUSE where before when you had higher compression you most likely couldn't add too much timing in BUT now that it is lower you should be able to add some timing into the tune and have more throttle response and more power