Well guys, im a long time and daily reader, few time poster, i was gonna do a nice build thread and all that fun stuff when my motor was done, but things took a turn for the ugly yesterday.

first off ill give you a little about the motor.

<U>block</U>
note: ive had the block on the car for about 4 months running perfect

rebuilt
B18a1
11.5.1 p30 pistons
micropolished / balanced crank
hot tanked
honed
stock bore

nothing to special just newer and a bit of performance

<U>head</U>
note: brand new, just put on yesterday

B16 (from my original motor)
portflow race port and polish
itr intake manifold port matched
rpm 70mm TB
370cc inlinePro injectors
inlinePro springs and retainers
Skunk 2 Pro 2 cams
inlinePro cam gears

<U>other parts</U>

DC JDM 4-1 header (i know i know, better ones on the way)
AEM V2 CAI
Hondata s200

im sure im missing a couple other things, but as you all can see, its a fair build.

now im not bench racing, and im not doing a what if i had these parts thread, what im asking is that, while tunning the car yesterday, on the first pull the belt jumped a tooth, BOO. well on that run with it being messed up managed to put down 191whp, which is good power, but ive compared my build to some of the other memebers builds, and there putting down a decent amount more power then that.

now heres the question, since the timing was messed up, on the retune today how ever long it takes, am i looking to make a more substantial gain the yesterdays 1 pull with it jumping a tooth and had the timing off, i mean 191whp is great numbers, but i was looking to make quite a bit more. That and im just looking for a number to settle for at the dyno shop.

thanks for the help guys,

and yea i will post the dyno results, and videos if i can get my camera working.




Modified by simplsi at 9:09 AM 8/11/2006

 

with that kind of build i would be expecting 210-220 whp, but as far as the differences b/c of jumping a tooth i cant comment. good luck with the re-tune

 

were u just running a basemap and putting down a run before u start the actual tuning?

i wouldn't worry bout 191. that's why ur there...to tune and extract more power. the dyno is just a tuning tool and peak #'s r just for bragging. as someone said in antoher post "**** talkin stops when the light turns green"

 

that map i was using was not a basemap, it was actually the map that i had running for my ls/vtec when it was just the block and completely stock head, and pulled down 176whp. but yea it still needs tunning. Thanks for the replies so far, well see what happens.

 

191whp on just a base run with no tuning sounds pretty good to me. I think with a better header it'll hit 200whp easy

 

Well guys, it came out 198whp and dare i say, im extremely disapointed. i guess i just wasn't ready for all the money i threw down on this thing, to have the guy tunning it come back and say, "we couldn't tune it right, cause we wanted to tune it headerback, and when we put the exhaust back on it ran like ****, so we just put it in the middle so its not getting full potential."

anyone think im expecting to high out of this motor, or am i correct. im thinking about taking it to another shop to get tuned, what you all think. i just want it tuned right, and to get what i put into it out.

 

#1 those cams are way to big for that in my eyes.
#2 I would only expect 200-208 out of that setup.
i did 214 on a similar setup with pro-1's and we had a buch motre cr then you since the pistons were not in the hole very much.
We alos had an Rmf header..

 

You can get another 4-10 whp on the dyno withthat just by playing with a v-stack and playing with various lengthe of intake tube..

 

Yea that was my fear, not alot of people had used the pro 2 stage 2's yet, and i think i made a mistake with not going with the pro1's, i think im gonna do a quick turn around on those.

 

your cams are way to big, ull need over 12.5:1 inorder to make sufficient power. and u need a better header. my friends old setup ran 13:1 on skunks and a type R header and managed 208 but onced he switched from the type R header to some custom ones, he managed 225

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1 those cams are way to big for that in my eyes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.

 

Post up the graph.

 

i agree that this motor is overcammed what im wondering is did you happen to bend a valve when the belt skipped ....... by the way that hp # is good for that setup

 

ok guys, heres the deal, after walking away for a couple hours, and then talking to my tuner, i finally was able to get what the hell he was talking about.

the cams are to big, but thats not the real problem here. the problem is that i wanted to be a dumbass, and tune a cam that is semi streetable for daily driving with the option to run headerback / full stock exhaust. i have/had one of those e-cutout's, its an awsome idea just not for my set-up. cause apperantly the car made awsome power when they tuned it heaqderback, but when they took it off the dyno and i put the test pipe back on, it just stalled and sputtered.

needles to say iworked my problem out, my friend is selling me his custom headers with 3inch collector, and 3 inch test pipe, and full 3 inch exhaust. So instead of tunning the car with it headerback and then trying to cap it off and have it run good, im just going to have it tuned to the full exhaust, that was my biggest problem for the tunning session, all will take place wednesday of next week.

but the wierd thing is the tunning i have now was so messed up that the graph they gave me wasn't designated by rpm's its by mph which i didn't like.

also you guys think i should take these cams out already and try and trade/sell them for the pro 1's, i was thinking of at least dynoing it first and seeing what kind of numbers i pull out with a true tune.

 

even the skunk2 stage 3s will work fine, having a cam that is too big is going to make u lose more power then gain it. for the hp u should get, it should be around 205-210 ( thats because of ur compression is at 11:5)

 

bigger exhaust system is not the answer to the loss of dynamic compression, though it may help a little bit.

 

bigger exhaust isn't quite was i was going for, the fact that its tuned right now, to run open header good, then also run full stock exhaust, and be decent is whats making it iffy, if its tuned for one specific set-up (which just so happens to be the exhaust im going to get) it will be able to be tuned for non changing circumstances.

also i just wanted to thank you all for the input and help.

*anyone know if anybody has pro1's they want to trade for pro2's*

 

well guys, i got the car re-tuned, with a full exhaust set up and bigger fuel pump

inline pro 3" turbo exhaust
custom built 3" headers
walbro 255 lph fuel pump

now it is tuned awsomely for what i want it, daily driven.

made 207whp (16 more whp) and im happy with that, cams still might be a bit big, but ill live with them till i can make this car a full weekend/track car.

thanks for the help and input all were appreciated.

Also just to throw it out ther thats 31 more whp then last month, so its gonna be nice. i haven't drove it yet, gonna go pick it up tommorow.


Modified by simplsi at 3:04 PM 8/24/2006

 

I love how noone asks what type of dyno this was on.

Just... it needs to make X amount of horsepower no matter what otherwise your car is fucked or your tuner sucks. Lol.



Between a DynoJet and a Mustang Dyno you're easily looking at a 10% difference.