90 Si/Clutch job/safely supporting engine while tranny is removed
I am in the garage changing the clutch on my 1990 Civic Si. I am ready to drop the tranny.
Problem: my jack leaks and will only support the engine if I pump it every 15 seconds.
Solution: Cherry picker
Question: is this safely/sufficiently supported to now remove the tranny?
Here is what I have done so far: I have put a chain from the header bracket to an ex.mani. stud, bolted/looped the chain around the hoist's hook, then put the other end of the chain to the empty threaded hole behind the head on the driver side.
side view:

top/front view:

rear view:

While I wait for your helpful answers, I will remove this radius rod and start to unbolt the tranny....
Problem: my jack leaks and will only support the engine if I pump it every 15 seconds.
Solution: Cherry picker
Question: is this safely/sufficiently supported to now remove the tranny?
Here is what I have done so far: I have put a chain from the header bracket to an ex.mani. stud, bolted/looped the chain around the hoist's hook, then put the other end of the chain to the empty threaded hole behind the head on the driver side.
side view:

top/front view:

rear view:

While I wait for your helpful answers, I will remove this radius rod and start to unbolt the tranny....
that's fine to support the engine only, but don't stress it or bounce it around or you'll risk bending those manifold bolts, or worse pulling them out of the aluminum head!
I can't remember how the hell I held mine up. I'd guess you'd be better off wrapping the chain around the bottom of the distributor. It's fragile, I know, but it's 3 bolts vs. one.
It's also possible to support the engine from the bottom by putting a floor jack to the oil pan with a peice of wood buffering it. Since you already have the hoist hooked up, use both for maximum certainty.
It's also possible to support the engine from the bottom by putting a floor jack to the oil pan with a peice of wood buffering it. Since you already have the hoist hooked up, use both for maximum certainty.
I don't know, I'd be worried about those, but I guess it might work...why not just drop the motor out the bottom with the tranny on...wouldn't be to much more work and then you don't need to worry about it falling or breaking bolt or threads
I have 2 big *** pieces of 6x6. I used one and shimmed it with a 2x4. I put it under the oil pan.
BTW, I wouldnt use the exhuast manifold bolt. Its pretty weak and you risk bending it. There is a hole in the head similar to the one you have on the intake side thats threaded on the exhaust side. Or at least there is for me, I have a DOHC ZC.
BTW, I wouldnt use the exhuast manifold bolt. Its pretty weak and you risk bending it. There is a hole in the head similar to the one you have on the intake side thats threaded on the exhaust side. Or at least there is for me, I have a DOHC ZC.
why not just let the motor mounts hold the motor up and stick some blocks under the motor so it doesnt fall, then unbolt the tranny, get under it and bench it out just like u would if u bench weights. that what i do and that with bseries not a d. iwould guess that d- series trannys r lighter.
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I just let the motor sag 1 inch and let exhaust manifold rest on a peice of wood...it's a light D series. It's easier to throw the tranny back on afterwards as it's got a slight angle to it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use the stock Honda jack (the scissor type) with a piece of wood under the oil pan. I usually use a big enough piece of wood so the oil pan won't be dented.</TD></TR></TABLE>
duh. thanks for reminding me that i have one of those....
i think the cherry picker is overkill and definitely in the way.
thanks again!
duh. thanks for reminding me that i have one of those....
i think the cherry picker is overkill and definitely in the way.thanks again!
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