What I'm thinking about trying to do is add a panel/block/box, maybe in the glove box, maybe in the trunk area somewhere. I don't really do too much electrical work on my car, so I wanted to get the advice & knowledge from the pros...

Here is an example with circuit breakers:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-022
Since circuit breakers (the one's I've seen) have only 2 connections (prongs), how would I add a range of different amperage circuit breakers onto 1 centralized location (panel)? Criteria below:
- I would like to pull the power directly from the battery BUT, use different sources for when the power is on, ie. like the remote wire of an amp.
- I do not want to use toggle switches for each circuit.

Some of the things I'm looking into are:
1) Gauges (on/off with ignition, maybe acc)
2) Stereo stuff, amps, Satellite radio accessories, etc...
3) Extra sirens
4) Future accessories...

Thanks in advance


If there are better options for what I'm trying to do, please do tell.

 

Why are you doing this? I not really a fan of cb's. I seen some fail and it wasn't pertty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you doing this? I not really a fan of cb's. I seen some fail and it wasn't pertty</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just got a garage in over 10 years... and I guess I'm looking for a project to do.

I'm also sick of always tapping for power from all different sources everytime I add something new to my car...

I just want to make like another OEM fusebox in my car for aftermarket stuff. That way when I add new stuff, it's as easy as just running a line to this fusebox that will already have power from either ignition, acc, or always on.

 

I think you're confused on your terminology and equipment... A circuit breaker is nothing more than a resettable fuse... It shuts power off if current draw exceeds its rating, just like a fuse does when it blows. A circuit breaker is not something you use for power distribution.

Plus, the circuit breaker you linked to is a plug in type, for which you would need the appropriate panel... Very much more costly than a simple fuse block and fuses... Not to mention totally un-necessary, considering that most of the items in your list are fused already...

You can wire a multi-position fuse block with two power sources... One side hot all the time (direct wire from battery) and the other side turned on with the key (hot from battery into a relay, triggered by the key)...

Work smarter, not harder...

 

If your accessories already have fuses, the purpose of external fuses is to protect the wires that run to them. If you're adding extra wires to meet at one location in order to install circuit breakers, that starts to defeat the purpose.

All electronics that turn on with the ignition are sourced from the battery. They turn on because the power wires are connected to relays, which are switched on remotely by the ignition. For example, if you have multiple amps and/or other audio processing components, the relay is turned on by a signal wire from the deck.

If you want a switch panel where you can turn components on and off, just use toggle switches.

 

Ok I know exactly what you are thinking of and IMHO it's a good idea. I've done pretty much the same thing in my car.

I learned the hard way. my car has a multiplex unit, which I blew out by hanging a light for a gauge off of the dash lights. that is a $125 part, and it's a complete bitch to get to. I am overly cautious but safe.

what I did was pull a line from the batttery into the cabin. I think I used 8ga or maybe 10ga. then I split it to 2 40amp relays. one of them used the ignition as a trigger and one used the lights as a trigger. now I've got a power line that is hot when the car is on, perfect for gauges, and one the is hot when the lights are on. then i bought some fuse panels off of ebay. I'm really particular, and I searched forever to find ones that took the same ATM style fuses that honda uses stock, but you can use whatever. then you just wire the power line to one side of the fuse block. the other side is wired to individual circuits.

I mounted my fuse blocks into my glovebox. looks very clean, mostly stock looking. I've also done them for friends where the relay and fuse block are integrated into a plastic project box like you can get from radio shack.

I'm really going to reccomend against using that circuit breaker you show. Too big IMHO and unneeded. just a regular blade type fuse is fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I know exactly what you are thinking of and IMHO it's a good idea. I've done pretty much the same thing in my car.

I learned the hard way. my car has a multiplex unit, which I blew out by hanging a light for a gauge off of the dash lights. that is a $125 part, and it's a complete bitch to get to. I am overly cautious but safe.

what I did was pull a line from the batttery into the cabin. I think I used 8ga or maybe 10ga. then I split it to 2 40amp relays. one of them used the ignition as a trigger and one used the lights as a trigger. now I've got a power line that is hot when the car is on, perfect for gauges, and one the is hot when the lights are on. then i bought some fuse panels off of ebay. I'm really particular, and I searched forever to find ones that took the same ATM style fuses that honda uses stock, but you can use whatever. then you just wire the power line to one side of the fuse block. the other side is wired to individual circuits.

I mounted my fuse blocks into my glovebox. looks very clean, mostly stock looking. I've also done them for friends where the relay and fuse block are integrated into a plastic project box like you can get from radio shack.

I'm really going to reccomend against using that circuit breaker you show. Too big IMHO and unneeded. just a regular blade type fuse is fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, great info.
I already have a distribution box for power for my amp & sirius radio. I'm about to install some gauges now, and just wanted to centralize a location for where I draw power so I don't have to remember where I put fuses for X, Y, & Z. Considered using circuit breakers so I don't have to deal with finding a fuse, which is sometimes difficult.

Is there a reason for 40amp relays? I have some bosch relays laying around, I just need to check what amp they are...

 

What is "safe" for one 30 amp relay? It is correct to assume that I can run up to 6 items that use a 5amp fuse?

Also, how many items would you say is safe when the relay switches on? Or does this also depend on exactly what I'm turning on?

 

Sorry, looks like I read it wrong. You used 40A relays... how's this one look?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-079

 

the Bosch relays are probably 30 amps, the one you posted from parts express is fine as well. If you are going to order from them get the relay sockets as well they make life so much easier.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...0-075

I just mention 40 amp relays in particular since that is typically what I use in cars. If you just go to radio shack you can buy some smaller relays that are rated for 12v, but not the higher amperage, and you blow them out if you put any power through them. The bosch relays are nice, if you have them, go ahead and use them.

yes you can run 6, 5amp items on a 30 amp relay. I like to leave a little extra though. The number of items you can turn on depends on what you are turning on. I would try to find out what the current draw for your item is, protect it with a fuse of close to that size amperage rating, and then add up the values of the fuses. You can measure current draw with most multimeters if you know how to set it up correctly. stuff like gauges draw less current then you might think. It's things like screens and lights that draw a lot.


oh and go to the auto parts store and buy one of those small fuse assortment kits. keep it in your glovebox. it's saved my *** a couple of times, and no fuss looking for a fuse.

 

Thanks for all your information. I got a little more reading to do so I can do this properly.

I did find some fuse blocks that I think I will install nicely on ebay

 

Run on line from the battery to a circuit breaker or fuse approx 12 inches from the battery. The current rating of the circuit breaker should not exceed the wires (or the battery's) capability to carry current.

Then run the other side into your car.
Now run it to a distribution block.

Connect all of your accesories to the distribution block. You dont need additional fuses, all the equipment you listed already have fuses.

These are the same rules you would use connecting up amplifiers in the trunk.

What makes me laugh is someone who uses a 150 amp circuit breaker on a 8 guage wire. Your car will catch on fire before the circuit breaker trips.

 

I'm an electricity newb...

Planning on running probably 8 gauge into the cabin into a distribution block for power. (What size fuse do I need here?) Please see below:

Distributed power from the block will go into probably 3-4 30amp Bosch relays.

From here I'm going to run an ATC Fuse Block (6 or 8 fuses depending on what I get).

I'll be able to tap when stuff turns on through the relay.

For now, the stuff I'll be running are the following:
V1 (1 amp fuse) - currently running on 3amp because I can't find a 1 amp fuse.
2 Defi gauges (currently trying to find what size fuse I need (bought used - no inline fuses included)
I may run a remote wire here from my radio for future amp upgrades.
Leaving extra slots in the atc fuse block for maybe foglights, navigation, etc...

Let me know if you see anything wrong with my setup.

 

pm'd u with exactly the information you want to know.

as for everyone else, I will post pictures of what I am sending him this weekend