is my timing off enough to keep valves open?? pics to help out inside
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
during a leakdown, my #2 and 3 valves are hanging open a little at tdc still. i thought it was my timing. before i put some adjustable gears, i wanna see what people think: does this look off enough to keep valves open?


in the process of trying to install the camgears, i stripped the crap out of the tensioner bolt. i hate these things. there is negative clearance to the framerail, and they are like the softest brass ever. grrr
.


in the process of trying to install the camgears, i stripped the crap out of the tensioner bolt. i hate these things. there is negative clearance to the framerail, and they are like the softest brass ever. grrr
.
Use a good shallow socket next time on the tensioner bolt. It is a steel bolt it takes considerable force to distort it like that.
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
i really cant get a shallow socket on there because of the mount bracket on the block, i gotta get around it somehow. what id really like to do is somehow get a straight shot at it and use an air wratchet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i what id really like to do is somehow get a straight shot at it and use an air wratchet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
use hand tools on that bolt or you will be doing more damage to it.
i never had any trouble putting a good 14mm socket and ratchet on that bolt.....looks like you fugged it up pretty good though.....the only way you are gonna get a good clear straight shot on that think is to remove the engine or drop the mounts on that side and hope the engine hangs low enough to give you room.
use hand tools on that bolt or you will be doing more damage to it.
i never had any trouble putting a good 14mm socket and ratchet on that bolt.....looks like you fugged it up pretty good though.....the only way you are gonna get a good clear straight shot on that think is to remove the engine or drop the mounts on that side and hope the engine hangs low enough to give you room.
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
use hand tools on that bolt or you will be doing more damage to it.
i never had any trouble putting a good 14mm socket and ratchet on that bolt.....looks like you fugged it up pretty good though.....the only way you are gonna get a good clear straight shot on that think is to remove the engine or drop the mounts on that side and hope the engine hangs low enough to give you room.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, i had actually 2 of my 3 mounts off. couldnt get it low enough below the framerail or high enough above it really. ugh. im pretty retarted sometimes, but this bolt has always been problematic to me. ive trashed one before.
what i find happens is that when i push down on it (to turn left) it sinks the wratchet down. ive tried putting stuff under there or holding the head of the wratchet for leverage, but i know im gonna mess up my fingers if it slips
use hand tools on that bolt or you will be doing more damage to it.
i never had any trouble putting a good 14mm socket and ratchet on that bolt.....looks like you fugged it up pretty good though.....the only way you are gonna get a good clear straight shot on that think is to remove the engine or drop the mounts on that side and hope the engine hangs low enough to give you room.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, i had actually 2 of my 3 mounts off. couldnt get it low enough below the framerail or high enough above it really. ugh. im pretty retarted sometimes, but this bolt has always been problematic to me. ive trashed one before.
what i find happens is that when i push down on it (to turn left) it sinks the wratchet down. ive tried putting stuff under there or holding the head of the wratchet for leverage, but i know im gonna mess up my fingers if it slips
You need to be using a better socket. Otherwise, get ahold of one of those stripped nut sockets with the spiraled flutes. That will get it off for sure, although you may have issues getting everything back together if you pull the bolt all the way out. Good luck!
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
ill be able to get the bolt back out, it just sucks that i always have issues with it. anyhow, hows the timing marks looking???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a funny angle but looks good. adjust your valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a funny angle but looks good. adjust your valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i will, hopefully this week. i dont have a valve adjustment tool (been using a 10mm deep and vicegrips) but i got the idea to pick up a pivoting head 10mm wratcheting wrench, should be a big help.
yea i will, hopefully this week. i dont have a valve adjustment tool (been using a 10mm deep and vicegrips) but i got the idea to pick up a pivoting head 10mm wratcheting wrench, should be a big help.
you can do it with a reg socket wrench and screw driver just take a little guess work and a little more time.
i dont know if its just me but it doesnt look like your crank pulley is at tdc?? it seems to be off by just a hair. unless its just the angle of the pic
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
no i think its off a tiny bit, its a lil after tdc, but if i were totally zero'd in then the exhaust cam would be a lil above the mark on the intake cam, and here its backward with the intake being above..
basically if i was 100% at tdc then there would be a tiny tiny bit more of a difference between the marks on the gears
basically if i was 100% at tdc then there would be a tiny tiny bit more of a difference between the marks on the gears
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
6 point craftsman. its hard to get a socket in there long enough to pass the mount bracket but short enough to not hit the framerail. i think last time i got it off i had a small pipe over the end of the wratchet and sat wiht the caliper right in front of me and pulled back. if i to it from the top and push down it always strips out because the wratchet moves a lil.
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