soon to be sohc turbo
well i just have a few questions before i drop everything in....i ordered a chip from phereable.net with a basemap...i am getting it chipped...but the delemia is that it's a freshly build motor not broken in...i have to break in the rebuilt turbo..and break in the clutch...so what is the best way in abouts of making sure my car will be ok and will not blow up? would i just run like 2-4psi? then get it tuned??? please help out this is my first turbo build and taste of boost!
you need to drive it like a grandma for 500 miles before you do anything else. and completely stay out of boost. touching 1psi is one thing but trying to run 5psi is bad on a new setup like that untuned especially.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to drive it like a grandma for 500 miles before you do anything else. and completely stay out of boost. touching 1psi is one thing but trying to run 5psi is bad on a new setup like that untuned especially.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong
You need to take it straight to the tunner and put it on the dyno..... Do not drive it for any miles untuned! you will mess something up
wrong
You need to take it straight to the tunner and put it on the dyno..... Do not drive it for any miles untuned! you will mess something up
What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that they "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent.
So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
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Never drive a brand new motor around UN-TUNED. Ever. When you spend several thousand dollars on that brand new motor, you want it to last right? To make it last one thing that is key is that you get the proper air/fuel ratio right away when you start up the motor so that it can drive. If you fully built a motor and didn’t have a wideband on it when you started it up you risk the following problems:
a. Too rich will put too much fuel down past the rings, and fuel is a cleaner…it will clean the bores and that’s not good, because you want the cylinders to have oil in them. Without oil, the pistons will scuff the cylinder walls and you’re going to be burning oil sooner than later. It could happen in the first MILE you drive the car. You want to drive it around in a parameter of say 13:1 to 15:1, but ideally 14.7:1 if you can. 13:1 won’t hurt it, you’ll just get slightly worse gas mileage.
b. The second condition is the worst, and that’s running too lean when you first start it up and drive it. Lean is hands down the worst, because even at narrow, light throttle you’re going to get excessive heat and cause piston expansion. If the piston expands even one thousands of an inch too much, your block is done, and your cylinder walls are scuffed, pistons are scuffed, and you’re burning lots of oil again. This can happen in one SINGLE dyno pass. Or just driving 2 miles to the dyno.
You might have heard of shops, that have charged about $16,000 for a fully built motor, and then they go out and drive the car around for 750 miles to break it in on a fully un-tuned motor. That is beyond stupid people. You see a shop doing that, you silently walk the other way, and don’t go back until they change their ways. You buy a brand new car and you drive it off the lot. That motor has about 5 miles on it or so. Most people get on it right away, such as me. Does that motor ever have any problems? Not that I have ever seen, or heard! You want to know why? Because its already fully tuned when you pick it up.
a. Too rich will put too much fuel down past the rings, and fuel is a cleaner…it will clean the bores and that’s not good, because you want the cylinders to have oil in them. Without oil, the pistons will scuff the cylinder walls and you’re going to be burning oil sooner than later. It could happen in the first MILE you drive the car. You want to drive it around in a parameter of say 13:1 to 15:1, but ideally 14.7:1 if you can. 13:1 won’t hurt it, you’ll just get slightly worse gas mileage.
b. The second condition is the worst, and that’s running too lean when you first start it up and drive it. Lean is hands down the worst, because even at narrow, light throttle you’re going to get excessive heat and cause piston expansion. If the piston expands even one thousands of an inch too much, your block is done, and your cylinder walls are scuffed, pistons are scuffed, and you’re burning lots of oil again. This can happen in one SINGLE dyno pass. Or just driving 2 miles to the dyno.
You might have heard of shops, that have charged about $16,000 for a fully built motor, and then they go out and drive the car around for 750 miles to break it in on a fully un-tuned motor. That is beyond stupid people. You see a shop doing that, you silently walk the other way, and don’t go back until they change their ways. You buy a brand new car and you drive it off the lot. That motor has about 5 miles on it or so. Most people get on it right away, such as me. Does that motor ever have any problems? Not that I have ever seen, or heard! You want to know why? Because its already fully tuned when you pick it up.
first off, a stock ecu runs a base map or he would have a base map loaded that would allow him to run the car w/o boost. there's nothing wrong with running the car w/o boost on a base map, so long you do not go ripping around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off, a stock ecu runs a base map or he would have a base map loaded that would allow him to run the car w/o boost. there's nothing wrong with running the car w/o boost on a base map, so long you do not go ripping around.
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Running around on a basemap is fine if you can modify the bin and have a wideband. But then it's not a basemap anymore.
Is it unsafe to tune a car halfway then drive it? A basemap is les than half a tune.
To the OP you need to have the car tuned (or learn to tune it) so you can break in the clutch before you turn up the boost. Then you have to have it tuned again for high boost. The car cannot be driven on a basemap, not at all.
You have to deal with what you have got, and there is little you can do now to change it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Running around on a basemap is fine if you can modify the bin and have a wideband. But then it's not a basemap anymore.
Is it unsafe to tune a car halfway then drive it? A basemap is les than half a tune.
To the OP you need to have the car tuned (or learn to tune it) so you can break in the clutch before you turn up the boost. Then you have to have it tuned again for high boost. The car cannot be driven on a basemap, not at all.
You have to deal with what you have got, and there is little you can do now to change it.
Earl made a great thread detailing how a motor should be broke in...
I will link you up with it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
I will link you up with it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off, a stock ecu runs a base map or he would have a base map loaded that would allow him to run the car w/o boost. there's nothing wrong with running the car w/o boost on a base map, so long you do not go ripping around.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A) you've spelled squirrel wrong
B)second off. a stock ecu does not run a basemap. a stock ecu has been tuned by honda to allow for reliable operation.
C) youre just a weiner
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A) you've spelled squirrel wrong
B)second off. a stock ecu does not run a basemap. a stock ecu has been tuned by honda to allow for reliable operation.
C) youre just a weiner
your a fin dumb **** and don't know anything what your talking about. when was the last time you had an engine you built last more than 2 years?
kinda funny how you have all this info to offer yet you keep blowing up motors....
kinda funny how you have all this info to offer yet you keep blowing up motors....
no offence but earl is wrong in his information about breakin because he left out the fact it truely depends on the piston and ring app you purchased. so just because someoen typed something doesn't make it true. if you purchased weisco boxed rings you shoudl contact weisco and see what they recommend for motor break in. also despite what others state, think about this. valves and bearings have a break in peroid. the vale seats have to mesh up. machineing gets them close to perfect, but only a break in can finalize the process. bearings have to be broken in to their new location for usage.
if you think i'm lieing go to your local speed shop and ask them (who is a decent shop) how to break in a motor properly.
if you think i'm lieing go to your local speed shop and ask them (who is a decent shop) how to break in a motor properly.
LMFAO!!!!!!!!!! just for your knowledge there **** brains, I have never blown a motor up... infact all my motors have lasted for well over two years
You might want to get your facts straight before you talk out your ***
You might want to get your facts straight before you talk out your ***
i admit i got your name mised up with someone else's but as far as shti for brains look in the mirror. you come on this site, talking trash, ethuging and think it's acceptable. it's not. and it's not tollerated. i highly recommend you controll yourself as the admins are becomming more trigger happy these days with people like you to ban them. Your commends and lack of communication skills are being reported.
I don't care if you disagree with my information, it's your right, but to take a discussion and then turn in into a name calling session is absolutely the saddest thing on the planet. it means you lack intellegance enough to successfully debate a subject in which you have a differnet opinion about.
not to mention most fo your posts are copy and pastes from other sources, not your own. so if you want to trust everything you read online, hey that's your problem. but 2 motors doesn't mean you know everythign and 2 motors, doesn't mean you have the right to make personal attacks against otehr memebers. you have been doing this time and time again on this site. it's about time you sit back hushed up witht he name callign and stick to a subject. if you cannot do that, then leave the site. we've had enough of the trash talking form people like you around here. this is the kind of stuff that ruins the site.
so eitehr fly straight or leave man. simple as that.
I don't care if you disagree with my information, it's your right, but to take a discussion and then turn in into a name calling session is absolutely the saddest thing on the planet. it means you lack intellegance enough to successfully debate a subject in which you have a differnet opinion about.
not to mention most fo your posts are copy and pastes from other sources, not your own. so if you want to trust everything you read online, hey that's your problem. but 2 motors doesn't mean you know everythign and 2 motors, doesn't mean you have the right to make personal attacks against otehr memebers. you have been doing this time and time again on this site. it's about time you sit back hushed up witht he name callign and stick to a subject. if you cannot do that, then leave the site. we've had enough of the trash talking form people like you around here. this is the kind of stuff that ruins the site.
so eitehr fly straight or leave man. simple as that.
Basemaps are meant to get a car to a dyno, not to break a motor in. It's one thing to run a factory bin/ecu with factory injectors and keep it out of boost to break in the motor. In that scenario you are driving it around "tuned". Do NOT use a basemap to break your car in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am so sick of this topic, there should be one reply that says search!! The horse has been dead for months but noobs just keep on beating it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with you
I agree with you
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