Here is the thread which explains most everything https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1692801

...I'll summarize below:

I blew up my turbo'd b18c1 last november and have been rebuilding it since. I finally finished everything and stuck it back in the car. I am now getting a solid cel when I turn the key on, along with a solid battery light (which I think is correct?) Either way, the only thing I changed from last year as far as electronics are: MSD ignition, and switched from hondata to crome.

So far I have checked the ignition by going back to my last years setup (stock w/blaster coil) and it didn't help...so not the ignition.

I know for sure my crome chip is good, and I tried 2 p28's...both same result ...not the ecu.

I pulled off the battery cable ground, tranny ground, valve cover ground and cleaned all the terminals/contacts, along with cleaning the contact of the ground on the thermostat housing. I also checked the starter ground... not a ground problem.

The problems are: solid cel, car wont start, and if it tries it immediately kills itself, headlights are doing weird ****. On dim, one side will have both bulbs on, the other only one, then on bright the side that had both on will go to both off, and the other side will have both on but they will be dim...never get a bright light really. I also found out that sometime in the past few days while trying to start it and switching ecus/chips that the backup light fuse blew.

I'm pretty much at my ends on what the hell is wrong, i'm going out tonight to test all the wires at the ecu and see if any of them will tell the tale. But if someone can tell me the problem, 50 bucks in your paypal account.

 

Retrieve the CEL.

 

you mean jump it? it wont do anything but stay solid no matter what I do.. i tried pulling the codes and it just stays on

 

TRIED DIFF. ECU?

 

Pull out your IAT sensor and make sure its not melted..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean jump it? it wont do anything but stay solid no matter what I do.. i tried pulling the codes and it just stays on</TD></TR></TABLE>

If this is the case, it sounds like a bad burn. Your chip didn't burn correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If this is the case, it sounds like a bad burn. Your chip didn't burn correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE> I tried 2 chips, and I know 100% that one of them is good.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull out your IAT sensor and make sure its not melted..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll try that today

 

I read through both threads, two things you may not have done yet:

1) Check the wiring to the cel light make sure it didn't get cut open or attached to something else (not likely but its a quick check)

2) Check the rest of your wiring harnesses and make sure that the wires are all in good condition.

 

i have a idea for you problem. a while back my brother had a simalar problem. he had a ground in the trunk of the car that was loose. it was making his gas gauge go crazy and on elight be dimmer than the other. so that would only lead me to belive that one of your grounds some where else on the car besides the engine bay is loose or even disconnected. and there is also a ground wire that connects from the engine harness to the thermastat housing. that will keep the car from starting if it is disconnectoed.

 

Have you tried another ecu? I know thats been stated, but maybe the soldering job came undone? have you tried using a multi-meter to see if the ecu is getting power?

Try a different distributor too, my car would throw a solid CEL when my dizzy went, and it wouldnt start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxcoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried another ecu? I know thats been stated, but maybe the soldering job came undone? have you tried using a multi-meter to see if the ecu is getting power?

Try a different distributor too, my car would throw a solid CEL when my dizzy went, and it wouldnt start.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The distributor is what I'm down to pretty much...i've tride different ecu's. But no one closeby has another distributor, so that is a possibility...

 

Well go back to stock, dry a stock ECU, stock injectors, it should idle it...That way you can be sure it is not a ECU problem or distributor problem.

Pretty simple who cares about good chip bad chip, go back to stock if it works it tells you alot. If it doesn't and does the same thing then it tells you alot too. Distributor will not make a CEL solid something is wrong besides that.

I burned my own chips for a while and I have done some funky **** before with editing the bin files manually so who knows what it could be without eliminating the variables you have.

edit just noticed when you say you tried other ecu's, did you try stock ecu's or other chipped ecu's?

 

well try it with out msd, i had it but it burned up my tdc sensor

 

I tried another p28 that was chipped... don't have a stock one to try.

 

Update:
I bought my injectors about 6 months ago, supposed to be precision 1000cc's with 2k miles on them. My resistor box was the same one I ran last year with 550 cc's... all wiring the same.
Tested the injectors today and they show about 2.2ohms themselves, and around 8 after the resistor box... the ecu is only putting out enough power to the injectors to fire an l.e.d, not even a test light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I blew up my turbo'd b18c1 last november and have been rebuilding it since. I finally finished everything and stuck it back in the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you remember to reconnect the small ground wire to the t-stat housing?

 

yes, there are actually 2 small ground wires on that clip...

If you pull the distributor out and turn it by hand, you can feel the injectors click, but the pulses are so weak that you can't pick them up electronically... they will light an led tho...

 

A signal to fire is a signal to fire.

If the chip burnt badly, most of the time the ECU will run in 'limp mode' on a backup program. It will still start and idle.

Where are you located?

 

Never hurt to check out the area u spliced to wire up your msd ingnition and check the wires leading to the ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A signal to fire is a signal to fire.

If the chip burnt badly, most of the time the ECU will run in 'limp mode' on a backup program. It will still start and idle.

Where are you located?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Northern Kentucky

The msd wiring is the same as it was last year....