any1 running only "upgraded" front brakes?
im curious to know your setups becuz im in the process of replacing all my suspension bushings/ REB so my rotors wont warp again, and i wanna do an upgrade of some sort to the front and SS brake lines all around while keeping the drums in the bak. the only thing im worried about is my car nosediving on hard braking and ripping my header in half. any recommendations?
integra hubs
accord wagon calipers (modified)
prelude 11.1" rotors redrilled
these are 16" rims. can't get anything smaller than a 15" over them.


Modified by weiRtech at 11:58 PM 7/22/2006
accord wagon calipers (modified)
prelude 11.1" rotors redrilled
these are 16" rims. can't get anything smaller than a 15" over them.


Modified by weiRtech at 11:58 PM 7/22/2006
My setup looks like this
90-91 Civic 4dr EX knuckles
Redrilled Prelude Rotors 11.1"
ITR Calipers (alternatives Accord Wagon, Legend, NSX)
2.5mm milled off the caliper bracket
Non ABS 260V Booster and MC (you can use a ABS 290V Booster and MC)
90-93 Integra Rear disc.

If you are going to upgrade to the larger brakes I HIGHLY suggest getting the Integra booster and MC.
90-91 Civic 4dr EX knuckles
Redrilled Prelude Rotors 11.1"
ITR Calipers (alternatives Accord Wagon, Legend, NSX)
2.5mm milled off the caliper bracket
Non ABS 260V Booster and MC (you can use a ABS 290V Booster and MC)
90-93 Integra Rear disc.

If you are going to upgrade to the larger brakes I HIGHLY suggest getting the Integra booster and MC.
i have rover brakes from an MG zs 180. the disks are 282mm, and the callipers use a much larger piston. the disks are 4x 100 and a hell of alot thicker than oem 262mm. pads are double the size of vtec pads etc.
just requires 2mm grinding off a calliper to clear. but as far as cheap brakes go here in the uk you can get a set sub 300 all in :D abs wont work with them though, but thats dead weight anyway lol
just requires 2mm grinding off a calliper to clear. but as far as cheap brakes go here in the uk you can get a set sub 300 all in :D abs wont work with them though, but thats dead weight anyway lol
i have:
DA front and rears
40/40 prop valve
15/16" MC & BB
stops much better than stock!
Can you put these prelude rotors and itr calipers on the the DA spindles w/o modification??
DA front and rears
40/40 prop valve
15/16" MC & BB
stops much better than stock!
Can you put these prelude rotors and itr calipers on the the DA spindles w/o modification??
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you put these prelude rotors and itr calipers on the the DA spindles w/o modification??</TD></TR></TABLE>
You still need to mill the bracket 2.5mm but they will bolt on. And you will have to redrill the Prelude rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost_in_a_world_so_cold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what axels are you guys running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
DX/Si axles on the SOHC
You still need to mill the bracket 2.5mm but they will bolt on. And you will have to redrill the Prelude rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost_in_a_world_so_cold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what axels are you guys running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
DX/Si axles on the SOHC
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdminthemakin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brembo drilled front rotors with DA rear</TD></TR></TABLE>
Drilled rotors are a waste of money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. My car stops pretty hard. No need for ITR stopping power until you have ITR go power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can agree with this too.
Drilled rotors are a waste of money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. My car stops pretty hard. No need for ITR stopping power until you have ITR go power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can agree with this too.
Front:
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front:
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the average person that has only a street car I agree. I typically think on the RR side of things which means better compound for more power or larger braking surface for more power.
Driven do you know what the weight of the drum vs disc?
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the average person that has only a street car I agree. I typically think on the RR side of things which means better compound for more power or larger braking surface for more power.
Driven do you know what the weight of the drum vs disc?
I've yet to find nicer rear shoes but I think I'm staying drum at least for a while.

fastbrakes 11" setup
9091ex mc and bb both new, ss lines, new integra calipers, vw corrado g60 rotors
had to grind for my fancy 16" wheels

fastbrakes 11" setup
9091ex mc and bb both new, ss lines, new integra calipers, vw corrado g60 rotors
had to grind for my fancy 16" wheels
90-91 EX fronts with Da brake booster and master cylinder, stock pads and stock rotor, don't really see why you would ever need an 11 inch rotor on an EF. but I still wish I had them
Oh yeah these brakes stop great.


Oh yeah these brakes stop great.


haha. there are A LOT of things I don't need on an ef. 
I find the integra spindle swap probably just as good of an upgrade, but hey how many of you have vented hats?
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg

I find the integra spindle swap probably just as good of an upgrade, but hey how many of you have vented hats?
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg
Quick Question guys: i have a 91 civic Si. I just picked up a set of 00 Civic Si front brake setup. I know it'll fit, but my question to you is:
are there any camber problems? i heard that if you swap out the arms, it'll camber A LOT. enough that a camber kit with some washers wont fix. I need some opinions, because I have the parts sitting around, but I haven't paid dude, so technically I can still refund. What do you guys think?
are there any camber problems? i heard that if you swap out the arms, it'll camber A LOT. enough that a camber kit with some washers wont fix. I need some opinions, because I have the parts sitting around, but I haven't paid dude, so technically I can still refund. What do you guys think?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Driven do you know what the weight of the drum vs disc? </TD></TR></TABLE>
If i recall, it's 8lbs per side... but, don't quote me for it as it's been a long time since i weighed them
If i recall, it's 8lbs per side... but, don't quote me for it as it's been a long time since i weighed them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front:
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just ordered some re-built teg/legend calipers and I was wondering if you were using the stock knuckles? I was just going to grind down the bracket and 10.3" rotors on. Oddly, I have the russel lines already and intend on keeping rear drums.
- 10.5" front brake rotors.
- Integra OEM Calipers.
- HAWK HP+
- Russel SS lines
Rear:
- stock rear drums, checked four times year, replaced every five years.
running Ford HD fluid
and I never understood why you would need to have better brakes if you have a more powerful car. what's the difference? a 400hp street car doesn't need bigger brakes to stop from 60mph than a 200hp street car on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just ordered some re-built teg/legend calipers and I was wondering if you were using the stock knuckles? I was just going to grind down the bracket and 10.3" rotors on. Oddly, I have the russel lines already and intend on keeping rear drums.
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