I know its not rocket science to do this, but I tried relocating my battery in my 90 crx dx and when all was said and done it wouldnt start. The lights come on, but no cranking, it just acts as though the battery is dead. I ran 2 guage wire from the starter to the battery in the hatch, 8 guage wire from the fuse box to the starter. And then grounded it off at the rear strut bolt. I have a circuit breaker near the battery incase of emergency. Does anybody got any ideas?

 

I don't think that setup will work.
For my relocation I ran 2 ga to a fused distribution block, and from there I ran one 4 ga to the fuse box, and one 4 ga to the starter.
It sounds like you have one going to the starter and one from the starter to the fuse box, I don't think that will work.

 

Sounds like you need a better ground. Easiest way to prove that is to run jumper cables from your negative battery to bare metal on your engine. If it starts then you know for sure.

 

yea you have to place a amp about 6 inches from your positive terminal or you will start a fire, and the back strut wont work for a ground you have to find another try where the spare tire screws just scratch off the paint before

 

^^^
How is that mounted to the floor?

Did you put bolts through the base of that box and down through the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by west nile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think that setup will work.
For my relocation I ran 2 ga to a fused distribution block, and from there I ran one 4 ga to the fuse box, and one 4 ga to the starter.
It sounds like you have one going to the starter and one from the starter to the fuse box, I don't think that will work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It will work fine, this is the way I have mine setup for 5 years, I have 4ga from battery to the starter and 8ga to the fuse box, and 4ga ground, look behind by the center taillight section behind the plastic there is a grounding point there thats sturdy it will have grounds attached already, I used that and have had no problem. also check your circuit breaker just take it out temporarily to test it without, it could be a problem

 

did you re-install the ground from the tranny casing to the unibody? it wont start without that ground. at least mine didnt when i forgot.

 

I had forgot the ground from the tranny, but it on and started right up. Thanks

 

I kept blowing 80a fueses, so I brought the starter to advance to have it tested. Mine draws 105a right off the bat, doesnt this happen to anybody else?

 

yeah you are surely no rocket scientist, all you have to do is go up front to were the positive wire is that original suppose to go to the battery and run that wire all the way to the back of the car ground the original ground to the frame. then put battery post on the wire that was ran to the back an connect that to the battery positive side as for a negative just run one somewhere off the trunk to the battery that it. nothing else. no starter changing or anything of that sort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlobberGoat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^
How is that mounted to the floor?

Did you put bolts through the base of that box and down through the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would also like to know.

my guess is it is not mounted. eek, not for me. nice totable package for theives.

 

not to thread jack just qurious. where did u get that fuse holder w/ voltage display? what brand?

 

I put a 100 amp circuit breaker in, about 1 ft from the battery. Got it from the local napa it was like $85. But better than busting a fuse and being stranded somewhere without a new fuse.

 

Ive been running mine without a fuse and its been fine. So what can really happen if I run it with no fuses?

From battery + to the firewall which goes into a block. Where I have one wire running to the fuse box, and the other running directly to the starter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90jdmcrxdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But better than busting a fuse and being stranded somewhere without a new fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why u put a screwdriver across it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianswty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been running mine without a fuse and its been fine. So what can really happen if I run it with no fuses?

From battery + to the firewall which goes into a block. Where I have one wire running to the fuse box, and the other running directly to the starter. </TD></TR></TABLE>


wow!!! This is horrible!!! What can happen? The wire can get spliced and ground and cause it to burn which will cause you car to burn!!!! You definately need a fuse, do not half *** this stuff man! I have seen too many cars burn badly because of people thinking they don't need a fuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by west nile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


wow!!! This is horrible!!! What can happen? The wire can get spliced and ground and cause it to burn which will cause you car to burn!!!! You definately need a fuse, do not half *** this stuff man! I have seen too many cars burn badly because of people thinking they don't need a fuse. </TD></TR></TABLE>


you guys have something to run out and buy if your not using a fuse

 

Like i said b4 a circuit breaker is the best way to go, because you dont have to worry about busting a fuse and being stranded somewhere. Or you can be an idiot like DieMaster and use a fuse and if it busts put a screwdriver across and chance that causing a major problem and burning your car up.

 

Whats a good amp fuse? Like 90 amps or something?

 

Your not going to find an 90 amp fuse. Go with a 150 to be safe, save yourself the hastle I've been going through. 150 will still blow if you have a short.

 

ok thanks.