Okay so I got my kit for my shaved doors. Its a protocol system and looks like this.



I have a viper 350 alarm and wanna know if I should wire one of the channels on the kit to arm/disarm my alarm. It seems kinda silly to have 2 different remotes on my key chain, but the alarm remote may offer some protective features the other one doesnt. What do you guys think?

Also on the brain there's a green wire coming off which I assume is for an antenna. Can I just splice that into the atenna for my alarm? If I do wanna wire a channel to arm/disarm what color is the wire on th 350 brain?

TIA

 

u should've got autoloc
if u have power door locks u can wire it into that & use ur alarm remote to open ur doors

to my understanding when u have poppers when ur doors are closed they are always locked
when u pop them actually the solenoid or whatever its called pulls the the door lock open
& the spring loaded thing u put into ur door pushes the door open

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tha_badguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to my understanding when u have poppers when ur doors are closed they are always locked
when u pop them actually the solenoid or whatever its called pulls the the door lock open
& the spring loaded thing u put into ur door pushes the door open
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep you pretty much got it. Ive disabled the lock feature when arming the car cause theres really no point in locking the car when I have no exterior handles. The alarm is only a 2 button remote and the kit is 5 channels + 2 buttons speciffically to pop the L & R door. Its just more optios to have a popper for the trunk and other show crap that "I may think I need" but really dont in the future.

 

You can't use the door solenoids remote to arm and disarm the Viper alarm, but you could use the Viper remote, [ch 2 and ch 3 outputs] to control the door solenoids or better yet, ch 2 output to "pop" the drivers door, ch 3 output to "pop" the trunk and use a push button switch, [momentary] to pop the pass. door, that way you do not need both remotes, you do not even need to install the door popper R/F section, [unless you want the other outputs].

BTW, "door popper" solenoids are not connected to the door locks in any way, just the door latches, but you are correct, door locks are not needed if there are no handles on the outside, [shaved] to open the door. 94

 

my viper remote only has 2 buttons. 1 to arm/disarm and an aux which I was using for my driver door. And a panic button but that doesnt count. Beside I dont trust the viper brain any more..check this **** out you wont belive it..

you know how I had that other thread where I fried the solenoid?? so I order this kit, just put the solenoid in for now till my day off to install the system properly. Its works fine and were in business. I go to work and get ready to go somewhere on break and the door wont pop(this is off the viper remote too) The ground button I have stashed outside doesnt do it. Okay plan B is I have a pos lead stashed outside the car too.(wired onto a diff relay system) So pop the hood and touch it to the battery and it popps and sparks but nothing. So **** Im stuck right?? WTF I get off work and give it one last try. BOOM the door pops and the soleoid frys again exactly like the last thread I made. So now I dont even got the kit installed and Im *** out one solenoid.

What do you think FCM? Yes I replaced the old relay and pigtails that burned up the previous time. Now I dont trust the viper ecu cause of this. Why cant I run a channel from the system to the viper. Isnt it just a signal that makes the alarm arm on/off? And what about my antenna splicing idea? THX

 

Yes I think I remember your post about the solenoid, but I do not remember it being a Viper remote controlling it, your Viper has 2 "ext" outputs, [H1/3 white/blue (-)200mA channel 3 Programmable output] push and release button II, [H1/12 red/white (-) 200mA channel 2 Output] push and hold button II for at least 1.5 sec., it has output for as long as you hold the button down.
You must be careful with the ch 3 output as it is programmable for...

1- Validity same as ch 2, output for as long as you hold the button.

2- Latched press and release button II to turn on, press again to turn off.

3- Latched/turn off with ign., almost the same as latched, but will not turn off until ign. is turned on.

4- 30 sec. timed press button II to turn on, will stay on for 30 sec. or till button II is pressed again, it can also be programed as "2nd door unlock", will pulse one time when Button I is pressed a second time after disarming, it is important that this output is not programed for latched, latched/turn off w/ign. or 30 sec. timed, if it was that is what burned out the solenoid.

As I said there is no way, [without mods] to arm and disarm the Viper with the door popper remote 94