I'm looking to build a turbo'ed D16Z6 (ex coupe with 97k) and I'm thinking about running a T3/T4 or maybe a bit smaller of a turbo so it spools up sooner...

Anyways, I'm looking to make a bit over 200whp with it, now what about internals...I've heard people say that you don't need aftermarket internals unless you go over 220whp, I've also heard people say you can run small boost (like 9lbs) on a stock system and then downshift and throw a rod... Other people say it's all on the tune (like that video of the B16 hatch that claimed to have ran 37lbs on a really perfect tune...which I don't believe)... So what is it really? I'm guessing it's a conglamerate of the three, that if I want 200whp on stock interanls I'm going to need a good tune....

I just don't want the danger of redlining it (like I tend to do quite often) and throwing a rod becaue the rods/pistons can't the pressure...

 

for your HP goals, stock is fine, just make sure to get a good tune for longevity.

 

oppose to a good tune for what else?

 

I meant get a good tune if you want it to last, otherwise chances are it probably wont' last.

and also, you won't hurt anything "redlining" a stock block thats boosted, if its tune like its supposed to be.

 

if you want to go cheap then go with vitaras and ls rods or something along that line atleast that is better than stock and you know it will hold up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DELshow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to go cheap then go with vitaras and ls rods or something along that line atleast that is better than stock and you know it will hold up</TD></TR></TABLE>

u mean LS stock rods? I didn't know they were that strong...I want cheap, but I also want them to be durable for boost :-\

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I meant get a good tune if you want it to last, otherwise chances are it probably wont' last.

and also, you won't hurt anything "redlining" a stock block thats boosted, if its tune like its supposed to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I keep getting mixed answers on this, some pple say it's all the tune, and if the tune is right I can run something like 9-15lbs daily band still redline it w/o throwing a rod... Others say hell no, and that regardless of the tune, with 200whp if I redline it or downshift too hard I'll blast a rod right through the block..... Anybody else have any input abou tthis?

I realize if I blast the block it's only 400 at most for another D16 block...but I rather spend the money on internasl so it lasts then go through a block because I didn't give it a proper foundation...

I know with big block V8's when building for power u always build a solid foundation or u'll expletive the block so fast it won't even matter how much power ur running...I assume it's relatively same with 4 bangerz

 

yea you just need the ls rods to be machined or look into d16a1 rods...if not then buy some tunertoy rods..i'm in the process of finishing my build..vitaras with scat rods..i spent 250 for the rods and all the bearings and 125 for the pistons with rings..if you ask me 375 is not too bad at all for internals on a college budget!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DELshow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea you just need the ls rods to be machined or look into d16a1 rods...if not then buy some tunertoy rods..i'm in the process of finishing my build..vitaras with scat rods..i spent 250 for the rods and all the bearings and 125 for the pistons with rings..if you ask me 375 is not too bad at all for internals on a college budget!</TD></TR></TABLE>

loool, word up, I'm goign to be on the same budget but have to save the money and purchase the turbo setup over time tho

I heard about a guy in long island (about 2.5 hours from me) that supposedly does turbo tuning, I guess I can just leave the wastegate all the way open until he tunes it so the turbo doesn't engage...also somebody on h-t told me that if I don't get on it hard the turbo won't spool...but taking the LIE...how do u not get on it hard?? lol I want to do this right, y'know? I don't want to do a half *** job, I don't need my pistons and ring so support 2000 HP, but I need htem to support whatever my needs are, I hvae to do more research into the turbo, but I'm probably going to go with like a mid-smaller size turbo like a T25, T28, or T3/T4, I'm lookin for something that'll spool up rather early since I won't be doing work on the valve train and will be shifting at the stock redline of 7200 RPMs

But I'm basically exhausted fund wise so all this will take place once I start working again during college, I'ma just purchase the parts slowly and surely and when I have 'em..install 'em, then I'ma get 440 injectors (if they're not already in there (I still have to check on that), aftermarket fuel rail (probably AEM), and hondata S200 and I'ma have a pro do it...

The guy taht told me about this pro that lives about 3 hours from me in long island can't be ****** around because he has a nissan 240sx and he just bought a basically brand new JDM (shipped directly over from Japan) SR20 motor which had to have set him back and he's going to turbo it and have this guy tune it...

So in any event. I'll probably go with cheapER rods/pistons like ur doin, I don't need eagle rods and **** that can support like 1000 hp, it's just not applicable in my situtation, but I want somethign that'll hold up better than stock (probably won't go over 250 whp if I turn up the boost for a race or something...)

Any help on this is thx I guess...I'm probably going to build a foundation regardless of how perfect the tune is...just makes me feel safe Like wearing a condom...

 

Super or Turbo-charging does not put a huge amount of extra stress on the engine. It is not the gas pressure that damages the engine, it is forces due to inertia that usually throws rods, meaning revving the engine too high. Although if the engine detonates for even a short amount of time with a boosted engine you could waste the internals in a couple of rotations due to the tremendous pressure spike. You'd be wise to properly tune it (thats self-evident) and to equip the engine with detonation control like the J and S Safeguard. It could save your engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott_Tucker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Super or Turbo-charging does not put a huge amount of extra stress on the engine. It is not the gas pressure that damages the engine, it is forces due to inertia that usually throws rods, meaning revving the engine too high. Although if the engine detonates for even a short amount of time with a boosted engine you could waste the internals in a couple of rotations due to the tremendous pressure spike. You'd be wise to properly tune it (thats self-evident) and to equip the engine with detonation control like the J and S Safeguard. It could save your engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Detonation control? Do you mean like a rev limiter? Or a knock sensor? Or do u mean like pre-ignition control like a chemical injection system? I plan on putting a rev limiter on (like 7.2k (redline)) with hondata s200, I'm looking to keep the same redline point

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Detonation control? Do you mean like a rev limiter? Or a knock sensor? Or do u mean like pre-ignition control like a chemical injection system? I plan on putting a rev limiter on (like 7.2k (redline)) with hondata s200, I'm looking to keep the same redline point</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a closed-loop knock(detonation) control system. It uses a knock sensor and can retard the timing a specified(and adjustable) amount when it detects knock. It does this for each individual cylinder so you lose as little power as possible while still protecting your engine. It also has a boost retard feature that will retard your timing a certain number of degrees (also adjustable) when the engine goes into boost. They also sell lights as an option that will tell you when it is knocking and how many degrees it has had to retard the timing to stop it.