LS Swap Problem - No Start Help Needed
OK...
88 Civic DX
90 LS Swap - Used a 96 block, 90 head, 96 cams, 96 intake 90 tranny. obd0 dizzy and injectors w/resistor box.
had a bad distributor.. so picked up a new one... now we get constant spark, good comprtession (may need to adjust valves more) and gettign fuel in 3 of the 4 cylindars...
I think i have a bad/plugged injector... I dont remember if the fuel problem followed the injector...
Question 1
Can i use the obd2 injectors i have just be re-pinning the injector plugs with obd2 plugs and ditchign the resistor box.. with my obdo ecu....
Question 2 Even with leakign propane into teh engine we still could only get a sputter out of it... we drained teh gas, put new gas in... check each plug... gapped.. cap rotor new dizzy... compression test...
We do get a code 10 (one long flash)
Could using the 96 intake manifold and not hookign up all the vaccum cause this?
the 96 intake has alot less vacum crap so it looked better...
do i need to put on the 90/91 intake manifold...
Does anyone know how to depin the obd2 injector plugs and the obd0 ones as well?
Modified by psycho.chicken at 6:32 PM 7/18/2006
88 Civic DX
90 LS Swap - Used a 96 block, 90 head, 96 cams, 96 intake 90 tranny. obd0 dizzy and injectors w/resistor box.
had a bad distributor.. so picked up a new one... now we get constant spark, good comprtession (may need to adjust valves more) and gettign fuel in 3 of the 4 cylindars...
I think i have a bad/plugged injector... I dont remember if the fuel problem followed the injector...
Question 1
Can i use the obd2 injectors i have just be re-pinning the injector plugs with obd2 plugs and ditchign the resistor box.. with my obdo ecu....
Question 2 Even with leakign propane into teh engine we still could only get a sputter out of it... we drained teh gas, put new gas in... check each plug... gapped.. cap rotor new dizzy... compression test...
We do get a code 10 (one long flash)
Could using the 96 intake manifold and not hookign up all the vaccum cause this?
the 96 intake has alot less vacum crap so it looked better...
do i need to put on the 90/91 intake manifold...
Does anyone know how to depin the obd2 injector plugs and the obd0 ones as well?
Modified by psycho.chicken at 6:32 PM 7/18/2006
im not sure about the obd2 injectors but i know for sure you can do that with obd1 so it should work its hard as hell to depin the plugs but there is a right up on here about it with no pics so it really doenst help. youll be fine with the 96 intake all that vacum stuff was just for the dashpots useless. whats code 10? id fix the injector then the code then try to start it.
you can use everything 96. i have a 96 lsmotor in my car and the only thing on there that isnt stock from the 96 motor is the alternator so i wouldnt have to change alt plugs
do you have spark? pull all spark plugs and ground each one to see if its firing
compression? use a compression tester
is the timing guaranteed on? set crank back to tdc and recheck cams
do you have fuel? a way to test this is to pull a spark plug and smell it for fuel
do you have spark? pull all spark plugs and ground each one to see if its firing
compression? use a compression tester
is the timing guaranteed on? set crank back to tdc and recheck cams
do you have fuel? a way to test this is to pull a spark plug and smell it for fuel
I do have spark (now with brand new 240 dollar dizzy... grrr)
I do have compression (after adjusting valves)
I do get fuel... I think... I may have one injector not firing...
I aligned the crank timingbelt pully to the mark...
Aligned the "UP" arrows up on the cams...
Put belt on and turned counteclockwise 10 turns and tightened tensioner.
I did notice when trying to start it that the dizzy had to be all teh way to one side to get the motor to sputter... maybe i'm a tooth off on both cams...
I think we moved teh injector from cyl 1 (the one with the dry spark plug) to cyl 3 (one with a wet spark plug) and the problem stayed on cyl 1...
So i may have a bad wire soem where...
I'll try using my test light to see if i can get a pulse from the harness on the brown wire (injector 1)
grrr.... so ticked we spent 8 hours troubleshooting yesterday.. redid grounds... redit wires.. redid alot of vcrap... still have code 10 (Solid long -2 sec?- LED)
We drained teh tank and got fresh gas... it sputters on propane...
I do have compression (after adjusting valves)
I do get fuel... I think... I may have one injector not firing...
I aligned the crank timingbelt pully to the mark...
Aligned the "UP" arrows up on the cams...
Put belt on and turned counteclockwise 10 turns and tightened tensioner.
I did notice when trying to start it that the dizzy had to be all teh way to one side to get the motor to sputter... maybe i'm a tooth off on both cams...
I think we moved teh injector from cyl 1 (the one with the dry spark plug) to cyl 3 (one with a wet spark plug) and the problem stayed on cyl 1...
So i may have a bad wire soem where...
I'll try using my test light to see if i can get a pulse from the harness on the brown wire (injector 1)
grrr.... so ticked we spent 8 hours troubleshooting yesterday.. redid grounds... redit wires.. redid alot of vcrap... still have code 10 (Solid long -2 sec?- LED)
We drained teh tank and got fresh gas... it sputters on propane...
on 3 cylinders, your car should still start up. my friends car with a h22 started up on 1 cylinder and it sounded like it was running on 3 still
also the word up isnt an alignment mark, its just to tell you that the cam gears need to be facing up. there are 2 little marks on the cam gears that should line up horizontally with the deck of the head. the 2 marks on the insides of each cam should be facing each other
also the word up isnt an alignment mark, its just to tell you that the cam gears need to be facing up. there are 2 little marks on the cam gears that should line up horizontally with the deck of the head. the 2 marks on the insides of each cam should be facing each other
yeah... kinda thought so... we did test the injector wiring today and it's "pulsing" swapped a few injectors and the dry cylendar followed the injector... so i have a crappy injector...
I do have 8 obd2 injectors sitting here...
Were gonna re'do the plugs tomorrow and ditch the resistor box and see what happens...
FIRST were gonna make sure the timing isnt off a tooth.. cause that's what it sounds like...
Funny thing is we undid the blots from the distributor and held it in place.... slowly turned to 8 - 9 degrees in both directions and it made no difference... i thiought that would of fired up if it were indeed off a tooth...?
I do have 8 obd2 injectors sitting here...
Were gonna re'do the plugs tomorrow and ditch the resistor box and see what happens...
FIRST were gonna make sure the timing isnt off a tooth.. cause that's what it sounds like...
Funny thing is we undid the blots from the distributor and held it in place.... slowly turned to 8 - 9 degrees in both directions and it made no difference... i thiought that would of fired up if it were indeed off a tooth...?
Trending Topics
OK...
So correct me if i'm wrong.. PLEASE...
I went to look a few things over on lunch today on the car...
Pulled the valve cover off...
now keep in mind that before i lined up the little arrow on the side of the block (on oil pump) with the line on the timing belt pulley.
Then i put the cams at "UP" and put the belt on...
SO Lunch time.. pulled the valve cover off.. put the belt pulley (alternator belt pulley on crank) lined the little red mark (white mark red mark white mark) up with the plastic notch on the side of the plastic timing belt cover.. and looked at my cams... way off...
exhaust was 2 teeth to teh right (clockwise) and the intake was abotu 3 teeth off (to the right - clockwise)
how the heck did i manage this.,..
I KNOW when i lined up the crank pulley arrow with the mark it was on and the cams pointed up...
SO.. wednesday were gonna re-do the timeing belt...
Yes i always turn it counter-clockwise...
I'll post up if anyone's listening...
So correct me if i'm wrong.. PLEASE...
I went to look a few things over on lunch today on the car...
Pulled the valve cover off...
now keep in mind that before i lined up the little arrow on the side of the block (on oil pump) with the line on the timing belt pulley.
Then i put the cams at "UP" and put the belt on...
SO Lunch time.. pulled the valve cover off.. put the belt pulley (alternator belt pulley on crank) lined the little red mark (white mark red mark white mark) up with the plastic notch on the side of the plastic timing belt cover.. and looked at my cams... way off...
exhaust was 2 teeth to teh right (clockwise) and the intake was abotu 3 teeth off (to the right - clockwise)
how the heck did i manage this.,..
I KNOW when i lined up the crank pulley arrow with the mark it was on and the cams pointed up...
SO.. wednesday were gonna re-do the timeing belt...
Yes i always turn it counter-clockwise...
I'll post up if anyone's listening...
OK So searching i found this..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1157039
It says to set the timing to TDC (the mark all by itself) and time it with the three marks all together...
So I'll have to go take another look...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1157039
It says to set the timing to TDC (the mark all by itself) and time it with the three marks all together...
So I'll have to go take another look...
IT STARTS!!!!!
It was indeed a tooth off each one...
Here's how my acura mechanic buddy told me to do it...
and it worked...
Look at the cams... on the end where the belt goes the timing belt pulley only goes on one way correct... it's key'd... the cam has a hole in the skaft below the end cap... the cam closest to the cam gear... the cap has a hole also... if you line these holes up.. it's EXACTLY where it needs to go... I'll snap a pic tomorrow and show people...
The crank was in the correct spot... the white dot all by itself lined up with the plastic pointer...
Fired right up once i did the correct timing
it's running like crap on a code 10... wont idle or rev at all... must be flored to run...
and i still have a bad injector...
any idea on the crappy have to keep it floored to run part?
It was indeed a tooth off each one...
Here's how my acura mechanic buddy told me to do it...
and it worked...
Look at the cams... on the end where the belt goes the timing belt pulley only goes on one way correct... it's key'd... the cam has a hole in the skaft below the end cap... the cam closest to the cam gear... the cap has a hole also... if you line these holes up.. it's EXACTLY where it needs to go... I'll snap a pic tomorrow and show people...
The crank was in the correct spot... the white dot all by itself lined up with the plastic pointer...
Fired right up once i did the correct timing
it's running like crap on a code 10... wont idle or rev at all... must be flored to run...
and i still have a bad injector...
any idea on the crappy have to keep it floored to run part?
i would say the injector is your problem. congrats on the start up
and i dont see how an h22 ran on 1 cylender. my cuzins plug wire came of one day getting on the interstate at about 7000 rpms and about 80 mph and it wouldnt go any faster than 60 when the wire came off.
and i dont see how an h22 ran on 1 cylender. my cuzins plug wire came of one day getting on the interstate at about 7000 rpms and about 80 mph and it wouldnt go any faster than 60 when the wire came off.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




