Ok first off they're just oem size but gold zinc plated and cross drilled. First off am i going to have to take off the hub spindle bolt? it looks like the hole on the new rotors will fit over it. but not sure. If i need to take off the hub bolt what size is it again??? 2nd question, can i use a regular flat head or phillips head screw driver to take the screws out of the rotors? I know i should obviously try something else if they're showing signs that they might strip out.

I think that's all for now, i'll keep checkin back to see if any one can help, and post other questions as well.
PS. I don't have access to an air compressor or impact driver so any other suggestions would be great!
thanks

R3D

 

Nope, don't need to take anything off except the little rotor hat screws. You'll strip them with a regular screw driver though. Spray them with wd40 then go out and get an impact driver (handheld version is like $15), whack it with a hammer, and that should do the trick.

 

I just did all this. Some of those phillips rotor screws can be a biznatch. One of mine stripped completely, I had to drill it out. I bought new screws @ Honda for like 60c each... Use some "Anti-Seize" or whatever on them this time, so it won't be so bad next time..

I also followed this walk-through, not too bad really...
http://www.ntpog.org/mods/four...shtml

Good luck to ya... Also I heard those rotor screws are basically only there to hold the rotor on in the factory..once you have the rims on and lugs down, it holds it on...

 

Yeah, all you need to do is remove the wheels and calipers and you have access to the rotors.

I have actually had success putting a Phillips head bit into a 5/16 (or whatever fits the bit) socket and using a breaker bar very carefully to get the rotor screws out.

 

ok i went and bought an impact driver and it worked great! now my problem is how do i separate the stock rotor from the hub? i've wacked it a couple times and sprayed some bolt breaker spray and still no budgin it. thankns for your help guys!

 

ok, nevermind on that last post, i figured that out. now i've got the new rotor on and got the pads in place and i was going to put the caliper back on and cuz of the brand new pads, i can't get it onto the rotor w/ the pads in. how can i get the caliper to compress a lil bit so i can get it on the rotor? i've got the car in 1st and the ebrake isn't up.

almost there!!!

 

Use a brake caliper compressor from AutoZone or Murray's for like $5. It just pushes the piston back, some use a clamp too. Put the caliper on & the pads last. Then, just bolt up the two 10 mm boys & you're set.

 

Are you working on the front or rear rotors? A C clamp will work fine to compress the front, but do not use it on the rear. The rear needs to be twisted clockwise back into the caliper bore

 

You really don't need that tool, its just nice to have. I honestly bled my brake lines to make compressing the pistons easier. Make sure you put them all the way in...gl

 

wRONG .. the way to compress the calipers on a 4gen Prelude is this :

If you take off the outer brake pad and look inside theres the piston that has a big huge + , looks like an enormous phillips.. thats the hint, I just used my tire iron to screw the piston back in to compress it... it had me confused and I used a c clamp trying to put it in, this flustered me til I turned it ...

 

Yep

--Screw in the rears

--Compress in the fronts

End of story.

 

ok, nevermind on that last post, i figured that out. now i've got the new rotor on and got the pads in place and i was going to put the caliper back on and cuz of the brand new pads, i can't get it onto the rotor w/ the pads in. how can i get the caliper to compress a lil bit so i can get it on the rotor? i've got the car in 1st and the ebrake isn't up.

almost there!!!

 

awsome guys! thanks for your help, i got the fronts on and they look sweet! now whenever i get the chance ( hopefully today) i'll get the rears done!, i'll try and post pics asap! thanks again to all!

R3D