I took out my IACV tonight to clean it and i started it up and rejoiced because my car was finally idling at 700 rpms but my CEL was on so i checked and i forgot to connect the IACV and right when i did that my idle started surging again. Any idea why?

2nd would it hurt to drive my car around with it disconnected?

 

idle should only be at 400 rpm fully warmed up with IAC unplugged.

 

Most likely your IACV needs to be cleaned out or It took a **** on you. either way you gotta take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely your IACV needs to be cleaned out or It took a **** on you. either way you gotta take it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just took it out and cleaned it

would it be safe to drive with it unplugged?

 

Are you getting a cel for the iacv?

Chances are that it prolly need a good share of cleaning.
I like to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slamaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you getting a cel for the iacv?

Chances are that it prolly need a good share of cleaning.
I like to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope i only get one when i disconnect it thats it. i used 2 cans of brake cleaner on it last night

 

You can drive forever without the IACV plugged in, it won't ruin your motor.

It only affects idle. Your IACV is bad, you need a new one. Once you get a new one, you need to adjust your idle.

I have the same issue and even replacing the IACV didn't fix me, I'm stumped, tuner is stumped, repair shop is stumped, I just gave up and rock the CEL due to the plug not being plugged in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can drive forever without the IACV plugged in, it won't ruin your motor.

It only affects idle. Your IACV is bad, you need a new one. Once you get a new one, you need to adjust your idle.

I have the same issue and even replacing the IACV didn't fix me, I'm stumped, tuner is stumped, repair shop is stumped, I just gave up and rock the CEL due to the plug not being plugged in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, only thing is that i need to get my car saftey and emissoned this month so will it throw a code still even if i clear the cel?

 

If you reset the ECU to clear the IACV code and leave it unplugged, the CEL will come back on. If the CEL is on for ANY reason, you fail emissions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you reset the ECU to clear the IACV code and leave it unplugged, the CEL will come back on. If the CEL is on for ANY reason, you fail emissions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know that but if i reconnect it and the light is off is there still a way for me to fail since the code was thrown before?

 

When you reset the ECU, it also resets the status of the monitor tests that have to be completed in order for you to actually pass emissions. The emissions station isn't just checking that the CEL is out - it's actually going to communicate with the ECU and ask it if those particular tests have been run and passed.

It takes a few drive cycles and varied conditions of driving for all the monitors to run. A drive cycle is usually defined (roughly) as the ECU seeing the engine is cold (through the ECT), being started, driven and warmed up, stopped and being cooled down (again, checking the ECT).

You still got the EVAP code from using an ECU that looks for the FTP input from a chassis that never had one to begin with? That'll keep you from passing independent of this IACV code you got.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you reset the ECU, it also resets the status of the monitor tests that have to be completed in order for you to actually pass emissions. The emissions station isn't just checking that the CEL is out - it's actually going to communicate with the ECU and ask it if those particular tests have been run and passed.

It takes a few drive cycles and varied conditions of driving for all the monitors to run. A drive cycle is usually defined (roughly) as the ECU seeing the engine is cold (through the ECT), being started, driven and warmed up, stopped and being cooled down (again, checking the ECT).

You still got the EVAP code from using an ECU that looks for the FTP input from a chassis that never had one to begin with? That'll keep you from passing independent of this IACV code you got.</TD></TR></TABLE>

great! thats what i was afraid of.

looks like i will have to register it in a different county

 

set your idle down to 400 rpm and then reset ecu and plug back in the cleaned IACV...like I said earlier. You're idle is

a. too high
b. or you have a vac leak

 

i set it to about 500 and reset and it is running pretty good now still surges a lil and now hangs around 900 after running a bit, but after reading that i will set it lower and see what results i get

 

also make sure your cooling system is fully bled. It's be great if you had a spill free funnel to cycle the fan a couple times to ensure all bubbles are out of the cooling system- I've seen many a cars have idle issues from eithe rbubbles in coolant, or low level

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also make sure your cooling system is fully bled. It's be great if you had a spill free funnel to cycle the fan a couple times to ensure all bubbles are out of the cooling system- I've seen many a cars have idle issues from eithe rbubbles in coolant, or low level</TD></TR></TABLE>

we use those at my work tehy work great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">set your idle down to 400 rpm and then reset ecu and plug back in the cleaned IACV...like I said earlier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't set the idle for a 3-wire IACV like you do a 2-wire IACV. You never unplug a 3-wire IACV when setting the idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't set the idle for a 3-wire IACV like you do a 2-wire IACV. You never unplug a 3-wire IACV when setting the idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a mini me swap

 

Oops, my bad...

 

its all good

 

I'm sorry, it's not 400 rpm, it's 420...off Honda's Interactive Network...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stupid Honda People &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature,
and connect an accurate tachometer. Disconnect the idle
air control (IAC) valve connector, and check the idle speed
with all electrical loads turned off. Adjust the base idle
speed to exactly 420 rpm, and reconnect the IAC valve
connector. Don’t forget to reset the ECM to clear the code
that occurs when you run the engine with the IAC valve
disconnected.
IAC VALVE
CONNECTOR
IAC
VALVE
</TD></TR></TABLE>

doesn't just apply to CX's...applies to almost all Civics