I know this isn't the forum to ask this question but I would rather ITR people answer this than someone who drives a civic or LS or something to that nature.

The discription on my internals is below me so here is my three questions.

What size injectors should I use with my JR charger?
Can I use anything other than a 7/8 lbs wheel for daily driving?
Who's clutch would you recommend and why would you recommend it?

Ok so that was four but you get the picture!

 

First off it depends on your setup on which injectors you want. If you have a Hondata setup, I would say do the 440cc injector setup with the Hondata. If you have no Hondata but are able to get really good tuning I would say go with 400cc injectors with a B&M commandFlo and a good tuning device (chip, AFC, etc...).
But if your just gonna run a basic setup, then I would do 310cc injectors with a FPR.
Next, the stock boost with the charger is 5.5psi. I would not go above 8psi on a daily driver setup, unless you are willing to sacrifice some life on the engine as well as the daily use of it. 7-8psi for daily driving is ok, however you will get some tip in detionation and pinging and also will have problems with heat on longer drives.
As for a clutch I would say go with a clutch master or ACT or similiar clutch. Its really up to you. With the charger you don't need anything that too crazy with it. Even the ACT extreme is kinda over kill for it.
Finally after looking at your mods below I smell a BIG BIG BIG disaster that will be coming your way.
First off, the compression is still kinda high for that boost, so I feel that you will have some problems with pinging. You will have to run really low timing and tons of fuel to make it semi-ok to drive.
Next, the crower springs are not needed. Personally I would never run those springs with a charged setup unless you have got custom setups going on in your car.
Next, Toda spec B cams! Um, those are NA cams, they will hurt your FI setup greatly. You never run any form of strong NA cams with a FI setup especally with a supercharger. Take those guys off and sell them. And since your at that take the springs off too.
Next, AEM cams gears, um I would be very carefull with them. Since they are only 3 bolt design gears they might slip. Use tons of lock tight on them to be safe. Also cam gears do almost nothing with supercharged setups and stock cams. You can tune some overlap out, however it wont yield any real strong gain that would justify the cost of the gears.
Next, the AEM fuel rail isn't needed either. The stock rail is just fine, yet if you want that bling bling look for the net then keep it I guess, but if your trying to impress the real racers, etc... then take it off because they will just comment on you waisting your money for it.
Also, the AEM FPR is ok, however I would settle with a basic B&M commandFlo which is simple and does it work without any real standing out look.
Finally aiming for 250-260whp is kinda high. I would say that 220-230whp is more likely. And if you do the setup thats listed in your sig, then I see 200-220whp with even more problems. If you do the setup I listed above with some good tuning and with a Hondata if possible then 220-230whp could possibly be hit. However you failed to list a intake, header, cat/test pipe, and exhaust setup. With a charger a good exhaust is a key item. With the stock 5.5psi a 2.5" exhaust with a good header (DC, JDM, Mugen, etc...) is ok, however with more boost you need to open the exhaust up a lot because the boost will not show major power gains unless you have a good exhaust. However to get a good exhaust setup with high boost, you need to go to the illegal side of things and run a really high-flow cat or test pipe. Also a Kamakaze header or a large 4-1 header with a 2.5" collector and down pipe is a good idea. As for the exhaust with high boost a 3" setup is best. The Thermal R&D is best, however you will end up with tickets and bleeding ears because its loud as hell!!!!!
Anyway I hope that helps out some, let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

1. stock Prelude H22A injector will save some money.
2. u will evatually use some 10 lbs pulleys later on, believe me~! so why dont u
do it right at once.
3. ACT Heavy duty series will be good enough. ( i have them on my N/A setup
ITR )
if u drag alot, go with Extream series but only if u dont care about ur two legs
become different in size.

 

damn mike... talk the guys head off why dont you!

 

haha you dont put down the numbers he does without knowing a thing or two

 

thats some lame advice!
FYI- getting good RC injectors which are flow tested and are made to the specs you want (IE 310, 440, etc...) is a good idea especally when you playing with fire (IE high compression, with lots of boost, and with high fuel pressures).
Also the Extreme series sucks for dragging with a charger. The Extreme is way to strong for that setup. When you launch with the Extreme series the clutch grabs way to hard which can causes unwanted drivetrain stress, broken axels, and bad 60fts. The heavy duty is also ok, however I would go more with a clutch system thats equal to the clutch master stage 2-3 setup. That way the clutch will give slightly on the launch but will have enough holding power for fast shifting and high speed runs with tons of heat.
Also a 10psi pulley on a street setup is asking for trouble unless you have a really good engine management setup. With stock or 11+compression you need to take various conditions, driving style, speeds, etc... all into account. I have tested every boost setup possible with the JRSC and I will promise you that anything over 8-9psi will cause tip-in detionation problems, major heat build-up problems, heat soak problems in the manafold and also unneeded wear on the engine. Also boosting over 8-9psi without a crazy free-flow exhaust setup is kinda stupid because in order to take advantage of the boost and to over throw the loss in power from heat you need to make sure the charger is take in and letting out all the air it can. Also if you make over 250whp on any setup with these engine with stock internals you are asking to have problems later on with the piston lanseals, etc... Even with those pistons you listed in your sig, I have a feeling that they too will wear.

The reason I've been able to get away with so much abuse, testing (100+dyno testing runs), etc... is because of my miles, the condition the engine is in, the way that I take care of the engine (oil changes all the time, spark plug changes all the time, etc...), etc... Even a friend of mine wanted to raise the boost on his 97 JRSC R. He had a full Mugen exhaust setup, Hondata, fuel system and killer tuning. He decided to put in a lower compression head gasket to drop the stock compression slightly and also decided to clean up his head some. He then raise the boost to 9psi indicated on the boost gauge after everything was tuning and installed. He ended up making 235whp. He normally tracks the car some, but normally uses the car as a daily driver, etc... About a year later his power dropped to 200whp and the leakdown test was reading very low. His engine was showing signs of wear already!!! And that was after a year of daily driving with some fun fast driving here and their with no pinging, etc...!!!
Basically listen to me on this. You can't just slap on a new higher boost pulley and give it some fuel and expect it to be all good. With every increase in power, especally with boost, you are gonna wear the engine down faster and faster no matter how hard you drive or how little you drive. Its really about how long you want to keep the engine running will determine your boost setup. Also with every boost increase you do to the charger, the more wear on the charger it will cause which will lead to insaine heat (which is really unfixable) and also the maintaince of the car will increase with more freq. oil changes, spark plug changes, tuning needed to keep it going and also valve adjustments, etc...

BTW- thanks Brian Spilner 1035, etc... I've been playing with these charges for way to long now, however its still fun to see what I can do to them. The limit is coming soon along with some more data that will cover the charger information from stock setups to the most wild and crazy setups possible with the charger!


[Modified by Rboosted717, 3:31 PM 4/20/2002]

 

Well all these things are already in my engine. As far as the setup, I was just wondering if I could run a small boost from a charger just to get some extra ponies. I ran 206whp on the dino after the third run. I was just needing a couple of more ponies, plus the sound of a blow off valve would sound nice. AS far as the exhaust settup, I have AEM cold air, DC-sports 4-1, Apexi Dunk Exhaust. The header is going for the new comptech headers.

 

this is too funny, I'm kinda unsure how to answer this but I'll give it a try!

Why in the world would you want that stupid *** blow off valve sound? Also the charger doesn't have a blow off valve. Go to http://www.jacksonracing.com and read some more on the supercharger.

Also the charger will probally hurt your performance rather then give a few hp with that setup. Also why would you spend all that money for a few ponies? Wouldn't you rather do it right from the start? Also going from low 200's to mid 200's is not a few ponies. In order to reach that level your seriously gonna have to redo your setup if you want to make use of the charger. With your setup I would just NOS it if you want that type of power. You probally have a 99% chance of blowing your motor up, however putting the charger on and boosting high to get that power you will have a 99% chance or heck 100% chance in blowing the engine up also. However if you NOS it and blow up you would have only spent like $1000 on the NOS setup vs. $3000-5000 on the charger to blow it up.
Anyway read the archives, read http://www.jacksonracing.com and check out my site to cover the basics so that you have an idea of what your wanting or talking about. If you have any questions just let me know.


[Modified by Rboosted717, 4:51 PM 4/21/2002]

 

yup, your performance will suck with a "charger" along with what you already have... if you mean a Jackson Racing Supercharger. You want 240hp or so you'd be better off tossing most of your parts and then bolting on the SC.

If you want the BOV sound, get the weak *** dyno queen Vortech Supercharger (which does not exist for a prelude) or get a turbo set up. OR just get yourself one of those speakers that make the fake BOV sound!