Greetings. I have a 95 Prelude SE. I posted a few months ago about a problem I had with my Knock Sensor, but I can't seem to find it or I'd add this question to that thread, so I appologize. I'll try to make this long story short.

Three thousand miles ago, (last oil change) right after the change I start to exit Oil Can Henry's and my CEL pop's on. I get home and pull the code; turns out to be my knock sensor. My first assumption is that the worker at Oil Can Henry's accidently did something; considering the Knock Sensor is located directly above the oil pan. So, I start searching for ppl selling h23 KS's and have the worst luck ever. So, I was forced to drive for 3k miles with retarded timing, and that's a pain in the ***. I'm idleing @ 500-600 rpm's daily opposed to my usualy flat 1k. It bogs at out of the hole and even @ WOT in every gear and it's slugish as hell. It's literally taking me 12 ish secs to go from 0-60 mph. Pissing me off to no end, and it gets worse by the day.

FINALLY, I get to get under my car and check it out. I took a few pics as well. One wire, or w/e it is, is unplugged. I have no idea what it is, or where it needs to be plugged into. My KS is there, and totally submerged in oil, even after driving for 3k miles there's still tons of oil on it. My question is; is this wire relevent to my KS problem? It is Oil Can's fault for my KS to be covered in oil, will this cause it to throw my code, thus release my timing? If it is and since I'm due for another change in a few days, I'm gonna go back there and raise hell. If anyone has anything to say on the subject, I'm all ears, and thank you very much.

And I'm very sorry for the quality of these pictures, and/or the size of them.
The loose wire is floating freely, like a free hangly light bulb in a basement or something. There's about 6 pics, cos I wanted to make sure you could see that it's hanging and what it actually looks like due to the crappy pics.

http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...7.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

 

That is your knock sensor, check out my headgasket thread, I also knocked the sensor loose.....I think you have to resolder it back or get a new sensor. The plug it plugs into is right below the IM (Intake Man.) in the center of the engine.

Good luck!
-Henry

 

Thank you. I got back under there and found the plug it needed to go in. I'm almost 100% sure that they're at fault for knocking it lose. It was hard as hell to get it back in there, the little plastic peice was broken off and everytime I tried to plug it in it'd fall out. I used some really heavy duty superglue on the tip to get it back. It's fine as of now. I let it warm up and no CEL came on. It's still up on the jack cos I'm gonna change the oil and use that restore compression stuff tomarrow, so I can't drive it to see if it worked. I just hope it doesn't came back loose again. Anyway, this leads me to yet another question: if the KS in now back intact, will it go ahead and fix my timing back to normal? Or will I still have the sluggish acceleration as I do now. Thanks for replys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, this leads me to yet another question: if the KS in now back intact, will it go ahead and fix my timing back to normal? Or will I still have the sluggish acceleration as I do now. Thanks for replys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reset the ECU and if it doesn't come back up, it'll be up and running as normal.

 

Did you resolder the two side prongs? I hope it works for you!! Good luck. BTW the knock sensor is very easy to break lol

 

Drove it for awhile today. No CEL popped at all, it feels better then it did, but not as good as it should, and my idle is still a tad low; 850-900 ish. I think I will have to reset my ecu. Could someone explain the process to do that as if I'm a child and don't know what he's doing. First step being where my ecu is actually at. Thanks a tons guys, and it's a 95 SE.

 

if i remember correctly, you just have to disconnect the clock fuse. and if you need a new knock sensor, i have one from an h23.

 

Holy ****, Butt connectors AHAHAHAHAA very ghetto for engine wiring harness connections. Solder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Where's my ecu and how do I reset it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where's my ecu and how do I reset it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Disconnect the power wire from your battery. Wait 15 seconds. Reconnect.

 

Or
1)Pull the "ecu" and the "backup radio" fuse

2)wait 15 min

3)put fuses back on

4)turn on the engine and turn off all electic stuff (radio etc)

5) Let it run for 10mins

6) Turn off engine and reset your clock.

7) Go and enjoy your prelude.

 

1)Pull the "ecu" and the "backup radio" fuse

I don't know where any of those are at.

I unhooked my battery and hooked it back up, it still doesn't feel up to par, but def better then it was. My idle's still 800 ish. I would really like to "reset the ecu and backup radio fuse" if I knew where they were and how to do it. =\

 

It looks to me like your knock sensor is actually broken. If it were me I would replace it completely instead of trying to "make" the broken one work again. You may still have problems with it the way it is. Just my 2 cents

 

Look in the underhood fuse box, you will see a 10amp (red) fuse, on the box it
should say radio/clock on it. Pull it for 2 or 3 minutes.

800-900 is pretty good for idle speed

when you reset it might run funny for a while until the ecu relearns everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1)Pull the "ecu" and the "backup radio" fuse

I don't know where any of those are at.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

its located on the fuse box, under the hood....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I unhooked my battery and hooked it back up, it still doesn't feel up to par, but def better then it was. My idle's still 800 ish. I would really like to "reset the ecu and backup radio fuse" if I knew where they were and how to do it. =\</TD></TR></TABLE>

800 rpm @ normal operating temperature is what the idle should be at (750 +/- 50 rpm according to the honda service manual)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iLood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would really like to "reset the ecu and backup radio fuse" if I knew where they were and how to do it. =\</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unhooking the battery pretty much accomplishes the same thing.

 

Look in the underhood fuse box, you will see a 10amp (red) fuse, on the box it
should say radio/clock on it. Pull it for 2 or 3 minutes.

Thanks, I just pulled that and awaiting the 3 mins. All the fuses correspond to the correct amperage on the label of the fusebox.. except for the the I pulled out. The clock/radio one is supposed to be a 10 amp red fuse, but mine's a 20 amp orange one. I know I can easily just go and buy a 10 amp one to take it's place, but will it hurt it any by having the 20 one in there? Thanks.

 

Oh wow... I properly put the fuse back in the radio/ clock place, put the fuse cover box back on, tried to start it.. and nothing at all. Won't attempt to turn over, headlights wont come on, radio won't come on, emergency lights won't come on.. NOTHING. It's from the apmperage having 20 instead of 10 isn't it.. this is great..

 

Nevermind. I unhooked my battery, took off my timing belt and alternator, put em all back on and it started up. All seems good now. Thanks for all your help.