ok i have about 6 grand to spendd on my 89 rex/b16 ... this post isnt neccesary at all. but im just throwing my plan out there, if you guys see anything that isnt right or you would do different definately tell me.

i was either gonna get a b16 bare block and send it out to get sleeved-or get a dart block.
low compression pistons/rods
knife edge crank
arp head studs
turbonetics t3/t4 kit
aem ems
all high flow fuel components
and just run low boost till i have enough to get a dart head and completely build it

so how does it sound so far?
ive got complete coil overs all around and strut bars are on the way so im decent on the suspension side of it.

 

if you do enough research you wont have to ask these question about your setup, youll have enough confidence if yourself. i am reporting sry

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xskiesgoblackx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i have about 6 grand to spendd on my 89 rex/b16 ... this post isnt neccesary at all. but im just throwing my plan out there, if you guys see anything that isnt right or you would do different definately tell me.

i was either gonna get a b16 bare block and send it out to get sleeved-or get a dart block.
low compression pistons/rods
knife edge crank
arp head studs
turbonetics t3/t4 kit
aem ems
all high flow fuel components
and just run low boost till i have enough to get a dart head and completely build it

so how does it sound so far?
ive got complete coil overs all around and strut bars are on the way so im decent on the suspension side of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much power do you want to make..? all that dart **** maight be a waste of money....Cause for a dart head and short block we're talking some serious money.......$$$$

 

ive done alot of research and ive been planning this for almost a year. i just want to know if someone else did the same thing and wished they hadnt. i dont know. i just want to learn as much as i can with the help of people who've had experience with this.

im planning on running low boost-maybe 14 psi on the street. and as much as possible (near 30) on the track. the track isnt THAT important(but id still love to have the ability to run 30 psi, just in case) but i just want a reliable setup, thats not NA. i mean from what ive found id be spending 300 on another b16 block, and then another grand for the sleeves. and i found the dart block for 1850. so 500 extra isnt that much for the strength that comes with it. the dart head isnt necessary either. i was probly just gonna build the stock b16 head. just wanted some opinions about that too.

 

1st Question.... How much power do you want to make??

 

umm... around 300 street and possibly 600 at the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xskiesgoblackx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm... around 300 street and possibly 600 at the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>
really
2nd question...What times and trap are you trying to accomplish at the track??

 

low tens possibly. i feel like everyones against me. cmon just lookin for if u guys have had experience with any of these parts and what you would or wouldnt recomend.

 

Let's have a reality check...

1. Low boost is 5 psi. 14 psi is normal. 30 psi is just waiting for something to break.

2. 300-600 hp is pretty vague, not to mention ridiculous. On a street car this will not be reliable. Sorry.

 

ok so instead of helping achieve what i want. just say its not gonna work. awesome. well i was saving for an evo. when i thought about turboing my crx. i guess ill get an evo then. thanks for the help.

 

i would think a properly built b16-T would be faster than an evo...

 

Choosing a B16 for the street was a good idea, it doesn't have the same torque a 2.0L does, therefore making wheelspin just a little bit less of a concern. I'm in the process of a similar build, and honestly for 300whp sleeves are not an imparative upgrade in my opinion.

However nowdays you can have somebody sleeve your block and have everything honed and what not for around a grand. That's cheap insurance.

You might be able to get away with running 300whp or close to it on a B16 for a few months - I've seen it done, but in the long run it's probably not going to be very reliable.

I think you still need to do more research before you blow all of your hard earned money.

 

a b16 is a better motor to turbo then an h22. Just because then engine is bigger doesn't make it better, not to mention the tansmission is a better choice. h22 is better for all motor...

as far as 600hp in a daily driven car, not really worthwhile IMO. 300whp is def achievable with the minimal motor internals a good turbo setup and a really good tune will be key.

a turbo b16 will rape an evo anyday

 

if i was you and doing this here is what i would do for the motor situation aiming for 300hp...buy your b16 and just get pistons and rods no need to sleeve in my mind. then just get a good tune and call it a day. sorry no input on your turbo set up

 

Save your money buy and LS and a T3/T4 turbo, there ya go easily 300hp on a stock motor and a good tune

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Save your money buy and LS and a T3/T4 turbo, there ya go easily 300hp on a stock motor and a good tune </TD></TR></TABLE>\

Yep, why buy a b16 if you're planning on building the motor for turbo? Building an LS may end up costing about the same as that b16, and be better for turbo applications.

 

ur going to be saving for a while if you want an evo. last time i checked they run for what, like $20k?

if you havent boughten anything yet, and you want to hit low 10's at the track, i wouldnt even go turbo, i would just go nitrous. its instant boost. yea you may have 400 whp with a turbo setup, but the turbo wont be doing anything till ur 1/2 way down the track.

as far as the sleeves go, id say dont even worry about it. Just because if theres enough pressure in the cylinders, it wont matter if you have cast iron sleeves or a straight up aluminum block, they will crack and your motor is fucked for a bit.

and ya.... 300 hp street and 600 hp track is too big of a gap there. you dont need 600 hp in a honda to be fast.... all thats going to do is break **** and lose traction. Not to meantion what kind of turbo were you looking into? a turbonetics t3/t4 tells us nothing, all that sais is the brand name and the flange.

 

**** just a nicely tuned d series turbo motor can pull some damn good times. and still be good for dd. thats what i plan to do to my hatch.

 

nah i didnt really want 600 to the wheels. you guys were just flooding me with questions. i want a reliable 300 whp b16.. im not just throwing this money away like that either ive been thinking about it for awhile and ill still take it pretty slow. i just wanted to get all this **** done right with reliable parts and i wanted some opinions on some of those parts. yea i completely understand traction is a major issue-which in part is another benefit to the evo. but i love my rex and definately couldnt part with it. my buddys got a b16 block with crank for 300. so im probly just get that sleeved cuz i know the dart block is complete overkill. is there anyone that has 300 w on a crx? and how reliable is it

 

around 300hp with reliability = b16a + full race stage 1 kit tuned by jeff evans

 

Do some research, stop 2nd guessing urself, and if you really "love your Crx" you wouldnt sell out and get and EVO, build it dont buy it, so stop being a ***** and build a ******* racecar